Build (or buy) a platform for a garage refrigerator

DaveInCLT

DaveInCLT

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I want to put a medium sized fridge in the garage (something like the one linked below, about 60 inches tall) but don’t have a good place to put it that isn’t filled with with cabinets, tool boxes or other racecar stuff. There is a space that I think would work above where we store the generator and garage subwoofer if I built or bought a rack to set it on.

Needs to hold about 250-300 lbs max. I need about 20 inches of the clearance for the generator, about 35 inches in width to span both and have about 62 inches before I hit the cabinets above which should fit fine with the fridge below.

Fridge that is on the short list, or one of similar or smaller size. Kind of a 3/4 size fridge, not a dorm mini fridge. It’ll just be used to store drinks and low alcohol liquor that needs to be refrigerated after opening.

Here is where it would go

IMG_3568.jpeg

Seems to be a simple thing to build but I’m no woodworker. I’d probably just screw 4 legs into a sheet on top, but guess I’ll need a frame of some sort around the edges.

I’ve been googling both DIY and (especially with price of wood) pre built options but haven’t found anything exactly like that. i found there is something called a ‘dunnage rack’ that typically goes in restaurant freezers that’s somewhat close but haven’t found the right fit yet, usually a little too short.

Thought I might post here with all the handy types for advice on building or maybe sourcing something that might work.
 
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DaveInCLT said:
I want to put a medium sized fridge in the garage (something like the one linked below, about 60 inches tall) but don’t have a good place to put it that isn’t filled with with cabinets, tool boxes or other racecar stuff. There is a space that I think would work above where we store the generator and garage subwoofer if I built or bought a rack to set it on.

Needs to hold about 250-300 lbs max. I need about 20 inches of the clearance for the generator, about 35 inches in width to span both and have about 62 inches before I hit the cabinets above which should fit fine with the fridge below.

Fridge that is on the short list, or one of similar or smaller size. Kind of a 3/4 size fridge, not a dorm mini fridge. It’ll just be used to store drinks and low alcohol liquor that needs to be refrigerated after opening.

Here is where it would go

View attachment 728343

Seems to be a simple thing to build but I’m no woodworker. I’d probably just screw 4 legs into a sheet on top, but guess I’ll need a frame of some sort around the edges.

I’ve been googling both DIY and (especially with price of wood) pre built options but haven’t found anything exactly like that. i found there is something called a ‘dunnage rack’ that typically goes in restaurant freezers that’s somewhat close but haven’t found the right fit yet, usually a little too short.

Thought I might post here with all the handy types for advice on building or maybe sourcing something that might work.
Click to expand...

I'd build it out of steel.
You'll need bracing on the sides and back to hold 350#s.
 
My wife hates wire shelving but the garage already has a bunch in it... found a custom wire shelf site based on you saying steel…

looks like I can configure a 24x36 with a 24 inch height. Might be too tall depending on how the height is measured, and the feet of the fridge may not sit well on it (26 inch width) but for $64 could be worth the risk. Holds 800 lbs

www.theshelvingstore.com

1-Shelf Custom Wire Shelving Kit | The Shelving Store

Wire shelving is an easy-to-assemble, modular storage solution. Use a 1-shelf unit in cabinets, on top of counters, or on the ground to help keep items organized.
www.theshelvingstore.com
 
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I'd build it out of 2x4's.

Some 1x1 steel tube would work too if you wanted steel. Just a square box with some diagonal bracing.

Also glad to see that I'm not the only one with a sub in the garage.
 
I can't help with the pedestal, but I can give you some refrigerator advice. That refrigerator isn't designed for a garage that gets below 40 degrees. Refrigerators in general are supposed to be on a dedicated circuit. That's less to do with it's power needs than it is to do with having other things on the circuit that might trip the breaker without your knowledge. I used to keep a led night light plugged into my outlet that had the garage fridge on it. It was my way on knowing the power hadn't failed.
 
DaveInCLT said:
My wife hates wire shelving but the garage already has a bunch in it... found a custom wire shelf site based on you saying steel…

looks like I can configure a 24x36 with a 24 inch height. Might be too tall depending on how the height is measured, and the feet of the fridge may not sit well on it (26 inch width) but for $64 could be worth the risk. Holds 800 lbs

www.theshelvingstore.com

1-Shelf Custom Wire Shelving Kit | The Shelving Store

Wire shelving is an easy-to-assemble, modular storage solution. Use a 1-shelf unit in cabinets, on top of counters, or on the ground to help keep items organized.
www.theshelvingstore.com
Click to expand...

Take the feet off if needed to make it sit level.
 
ronn47 said:
Take the feet off if needed to make it sit level.
Click to expand...
If you remove the feet/legs, you may be able to drill a hole through the bottom of the shelf and then thread the leg back up through into the mounts and secure the fridge to the the shelf. That sould keep it from tipping or falling if some kid hangs on the open door.
 
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Take a look at AC condenser support brackets like this one:

Mitsubishi 25 in. Condenser Wall Bracket | Ferguson

Shop for 25 in. Condenser Wall Bracket from Mitsubishi At Ferguson. Ferguson is the #1 US plumbing supply company and a top distributor of HVAC parts, waterworks supplies, and MRO products.
www.ferguson.com www.ferguson.com
 
Timfoilhat said:
I can't help with the pedestal, but I can give you some refrigerator advice. That refrigerator isn't designed for a garage that gets below 40 degrees. Refrigerators in general are supposed to be on a dedicated circuit. That's less to do with it's power needs than it is to do with having other things on the circuit that might trip the breaker without your knowledge. I used to keep a led night light plugged into my outlet that had the garage fridge on it. It was my way on knowing the power hadn't failed.
Click to expand...
Thanks, also saw that in the Q&A on the fridge when I was searching them up. We’ve got temperature monitors in our garage and checked them and coldest it’s ever gotten is 48. Last night when it was in the teens it was 52f. The fridge would be near the door into the house and on an inside wall, sensor is close to garage door.

Plus side is, we don’t plan to put food in it or any perishables other than liquor which wouldn’t go bad fast.

wife is out there almost daily and turns that TV or music on so would be alerted pretty quick If it popped.
 
Catfish said:
Take a look at AC condenser support brackets like this one:

Mitsubishi 25 in. Condenser Wall Bracket | Ferguson

Shop for 25 in. Condenser Wall Bracket from Mitsubishi At Ferguson. Ferguson is the #1 US plumbing supply company and a top distributor of HVAC parts, waterworks supplies, and MRO products.
www.ferguson.com www.ferguson.com
Click to expand...
Wow interesting idea. would need to attach to bottom of fridge to secure and spread across multiple studs. from some reviews vibration gets transferred which we wouldn’t want
 
I did this very same thing for a chest freezer. I had one of these lying around:

1705516323582.png

I took the casters off, and just made a bigger "deck" out of 2x4s (like this) (not my pics). Just some screws and wood glue. I bolted the scavenged casters on and it's been fine for years.

Total cost, $25 maybe.

1705516718123.png 1705516754072.png1705516738940.png
 
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2x4s in an ‘L’ if you want to overbuild. I’d run a top and bottom band out of 1x3. Wouldn’t do a single band, could twist a leg. Build the leg size to pickup the fridge feet/frame. That’ll handle the compression without problem, cost about $25.
 
However you build a rack, I would anchor the refrigerator to the wall.
Strap it somehow, don't want it falling over on someone or during the night.
 
Ok. Thinking outside the box.

Why not put the fridge on the ground and build a rack above to to hold whatever is on the ground now?

That seems a lot simpler to me.
 
I overbuild everything, but 350lbs really isn’t a big deal. 4 2x4’s with inside frame around the top and bottom and plywood screwed to the back and sides. I’d install leveling feet, and I’d secure the fridge to the base and to the cabinet above it. It’s not really normal to put weight on a fridge door, but when it’s up high someone will pull on it without thinking. Might even install one of those child safety devices that keep dressers from tipping on kids when they climb the drawers. You don’t want a hard connection to the wall if there is living space on the other side.

Now lifting a 350lb fridge onto this base, that’d be fun to watch…take video!
 
Chdamn said:
Ok. Thinking outside the box.

Why not put the fridge on the ground and build a rack above to to hold whatever is on the ground now?

That seems a lot simpler to me.
Click to expand...
Good idea but won't fly Too heavy to lift up there (at least for the Honda generator) regularly on & off. Subwoofer would not do well acoustically up there / vibration & rattles

Also now thinking about potentially making it 'just fit' the fridge and not try to span both of them. only put one of them under the fridge, the (likely sub) stays where it is.
 
GymB said:
I overbuild everything, but 350lbs really isn’t a big deal. 4 2x4’s with inside frame around the top and bottom and plywood screwed to the back and sides. I’d install leveling feet, and I’d secure the fridge to the base and to the cabinet above it. It’s not really normal to put weight on a fridge door, but when it’s up high someone will pull on it without thinking. Might even install one of those child safety devices that keep dressers from tipping on kids when they climb the drawers. You don’t want a hard connection to the wall if there is living space on the other side.

Now lifting a 350lb fridge onto this base, that’d be fun to watch…take video!
Click to expand...
Empty only 117lbs, just trying to think what max might be when fridge is full and thought 250-300 max would probably be a good guess.
 
You know, you could just stack some cement blocks and lay a platform across it.
Just don’t invite your OSHA friends over for a beer.
 
DaveInCLT said:
Good idea but won't fly Too heavy to lift up there (at least for the Honda generator) regularly on & off. Subwoofer would not do well acoustically up there / vibration & rattles

Also now thinking about potentially making it 'just fit' the fridge and not try to span both of them. only put one of them under the fridge, the (likely sub) stays where it is.
Click to expand...
How often do you move the generator though?
 
10 - 15 times a year. Every time we go to the track or have an extended power outage. It's 131 lbs dry
 
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