Chinese t53 sticky chamber

Trevillian

Trevillian

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I assume rough chamber..

Anyway. I have a t53. Shoots great for what it is. But extraction of a fired round is horrible. Was generally sticky at first with wolf wpa. Cleaned the unholy heck out of the bore. Removing cosmoline first. Then cleaned, and cleaned and cleaned. Loaded rounds cycle like butter (for a mosin clone) but as soon as I fire a round it sticks. Well after initial cleaning the first 10 rounds were smooth on extraction. Then the next 5 were hard to get the bolt to rotate. The last couple of the next string I had to beat the bolt open with a baton.

i shot wolf wpa (bi-metal case) and Tulammo (steel case) in it. Even tried mixing the two. But after cleaning, the more I shoot it, the worse it gets after a good cleaning.

it goes from normal to beat it open inside of 20rds every time.

Im guessing I need to polish the chamber but since I don't know the Mosin or copy's. I wanted to ask.

this example honestly has a smooth looking bore and chamber compared to others I've seen/handled/fired yet they had nary an issue.

figured I'd ask the pros before I go bubba Jr. on it lol.
 
Lucky13bullets;n92311 said:
I had a R.E.M. 700 that did the same

0000 steel wool wrapped around a brush on a drill polished the chamber nicely
Click to expand...

thanks, that's what I'm figuring but since it's my only commie surplus, wanted to ask before I took power to it:)
 
I never thought of using steel wool, I will have to try that next time. I have always used a length of gi cleaning rod chucked in the cordless drill with a old brush and a patch wrapped around it. Apply a little flitz or other metal polish and go at it for a few seconds at a time. Works wonders on new ar's with sticky chambers. It can also be used on neglected shotgun bores that have accumulated heavy layers of plastic.
 
true a small drill one with lower rpm's works lots better won't heat up the metal in chamber or bore which will actually clean out crap a lot quicker if you get it really hot with fast drill it'll make the lacquer melt and then it'll cool quick and then you got a super thin layer of it in it. Thats normally what happens
 
You might not actually have the cosmoline out... Depends on what you were using to clean it. Would get sticky again after it got hot. The best thing I've ever used to clean cosmo out of milsurp guns is kerosene. It will just melt it off. Worth a shot before you go getting crazy with steel wool.
 
mckenziedrums;n92847 said:
You might not actually have the cosmoline out... Depends on what you were using to clean it. Would get sticky again after it got hot. The best thing I've ever used to clean cosmo out of milsurp guns is kerosene. It will just melt it off. Worth a shot before you go getting crazy with steel wool.
Click to expand...

true and that stuff can get and stay in a crevice so easy
 
As others have said, that cosmoline is gnarly stuff. I have three T53s myself and all were completely boogered up when I bought them.

Heat is one of cosmo's worst enemies. Before you alter the actual gun, take the wood off and boil metal parts in an old pot; dry, clean, and oil accordingly. Alternatively, you can "bake" them at a low oven setting and then clean and oil. If you don't want to take either of those routes, you can also hit the parts with a hair dryer.

Takes a bit of elbow grease to remove all that commie grease, but it's worth it. My T53s now have some of the smoothest actions of any of my milsurp bolt rifles.
 
Short Fuse;n92373 said:
I never thought of using steel wool, I will have to try that next time. I have always used a length of gi cleaning rod chucked in the cordless drill with a old brush and a patch wrapped around it. Apply a little flitz or other metal polish and go at it for a few seconds at a time. Works wonders on new ar's with sticky chambers. It can also be used on neglected shotgun bores that have accumulated heavy layers of plastic.
Click to expand...

Kinda sorta the same thing but I use jeweler's rouge, an old cleaning rod section and a shotgun bore mop. I am thinking 28 gauge mop would be about right for the T53 chamber.
 
I wonder if that ammo has a coating that is complicating things...
 
Thanks for the info guys!

i left the action sitting on the wood stove (has a cover so not right on it) restuffed the bore with paper towels every hr or so until they came out dry. So I'm fairly confident the bore is free of gunk.

looking like just a rough chamber so far.
 
East of Here;n93019 said:
I wonder if that ammo has a coating that is complicating things...
Click to expand...

They are lacquered so it prolly doesn't help. But I have other stuff to put buck a round brass case in:-D. It'll only ever be fed surplus and steel case stuff most likely.
 
well I can say I've got a few mosins and most all I've shot the fool out of them but I did do a really anal cleaning of them all before hand and when I say anal I mean I got those little metal picks to get crap out of crevices. I'll disassemble them completely before I even start to attempt to start to clean.
 
I had a stuck case in my first mosin after firing my first shot turn it. After wrapping an old sock around the bolt handle, I had to use a small sledge hammer to beat the action open(a dead blow hammer did nothing but waste my time and usage of certain words). It turned out that there was cosmoline still in the locking lug recesses even after cleaning the ever living hell out of the gun. After checking and rechecking the cleanliness of my mosin, I have never had a stuck case in it since and I’ve fired every type of “brass” available for 7.62x54mm. I would check every single inch of the chamber area before doing anything else.
 
You’ve got sticky bolt. Take a 20 gauge bronze brush and wrap a cleaning cloth around it. Put the brush in a section of rod and put in a drill. Run it slow back and forth in the chamber for a few minutes and it will take care of your problems. I’ve had to do it to every one I’ve bought that had cosmoline on it still. The brush will be trashed when you finish so use an old one.
 
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