Cleaning brass post sizing?

[Sigogglin]

So I lube cases with 10:1 alcohol/lanolin mix. I don't brush the case necks, I just toss a few handfuls around in a gallon bag for a minute and then size them. I had a thought last night as I was dumping a bucket of sized brass into the ultrasonic, do I really need to clean/degrease them afterwards? I've just always done it out of habit but if I can save a step, I'll do that. Thoughts?

 

[falconew]

You don’t have to clean the lube off. The reason I clean off the lube is dust can stick to it. And you add that lube to the chamber of the gun each round fired and causes build up quicker.

I have actually left the lube on and loaded and dry tumbled afterwards. It took a long time to get it clean. So for me it’s lube process brass clean then load.

 

[Sigogglin]

Thanks. Only been reloading for about a year or so, still learning.

 

[falconew]

Thanks. Only been reloading for about a year or so, still learning.

No worries. It’s always a learning hobby.

 

[I_load_my_own]

I have always just left my brass dirty after shooting, resized, and then cleaned them so that way the grease is removed.

 

[rufrdr]

Lubed cases can be hard on a firearm as it increases rearward thrust of the fired case since the brass isn't momentarily adhering to the chamber because of the lube. When firearms are proof tested they may be tested with an oiled proof round to really stress the receiver. Some military weapon
in years past used oiled or waxed coated cases in order to function, but not an ideal situation for several reasons.

Your cases should be dry when you finish.

 

[Sigogglin]

I have always just left my brass dirty after shooting, resized, and then cleaned them so that way the grease is removed.

For stuff I shoot from bolt guns, that's not a problem, but mainly what I'm working with here is range pickup .223/5.56 brass from an outdoor range. Lots of dirt and junk in the cases. I tend to deprime, clean them in a 5 gallon bucket, resize, ultrasonic, and load.

Lubed cases can be hard on a firearm as it increases rearward thrust of the fired case since the brass isn't momentarily adhering to the chamber because of the lube. When firearms are proof tested they may be tested with an oiled proof round to really stress the receiver. Some military weapon
in years past used oiled or waxed coated cases in order to function, but not an ideal situation for several reasons.

Your cases should be dry when you finish.

That's a fair point, hadn't considered that.

 

[Charlie]

I like my cases clean before I size them and both clean and dry before I load them. I put them in a vibrating cleaner with walnut media for a short time before I do case prep of sizing, depriming, and trimming if necessary. I them put them back into the walnut to get the lube off before loading.

One thing I do for good lubrication on bottle neck cases is to lube the inside of the necks very lightly. I use a bore cleaning mop with a small amount of lube on it to run up into the neck. It greatly reduces the force required to pull the sizing plug back through the neck. I drilled and tapped a hole in my loading bench right next to my press into which I screw the mop so I do not have to use both hands. Enough lubrication is your friend. Too much or too little is not.

 

[Clicker]

I often use an alcohol/lanolin mix and just place the brass in a mesh laundry bag and dunk it in a big jar of 90% isopropyl alcohol. Swish it around for a few seconds and almost all of the lube is dissolved into the solution.