Critique my build list

@Tarowah , what does tuning the gas block do for you? I get that tuning a gas block helps with a suppressed system because of the added back pressure and increased cycle speed of the bolt.

What does a tuneable gas system do in a non suppressed system?

Tuning the gas system does a number of things for you but imo the biggest gain you will see is reduced recoil and less movement through the optic, two of my ARs have carbine gas systems and I saw the biggest benefit on those rifles, my PSA was WAY over gassed and it would throw brass all the way across the shooting bays, the buffer had a ring in the face of it from the amount of force the bolt was hitting it, it was so over gassed the gun was not extracting properly, I was having to replace buffer springs about every 2-3k through the rifle just to get it to run properly, My BCM had an adjustable gas block on it from day one and it always left a nice pile of brass about 3 o'clock and the rifle shoots extremely flat, once I put the SLR adjustable block in my PSA is shoots about as well as my BCM does.

When I built my wifes AR I went mid length and did not go with an adjustable gas block right away, I put 100 or so rounds through the rifle and it shot pretty flat, the ejection was good to go but my wife mentioned that my BCM and PSA didn't seem to move around as much when she shot them, so I put an SLR on her rifle and it shoots just as well if not better than my carbines, with a mid or rifle length gas system I don't think it is nearly as noticeable but imo it is noticeable enough to warrant the $100 bucks if you are wanting to get your rifle to shoot as flat as it can.

I don't know if this is the "proper" thing to do, but I normally tune the gas system shooting the value box .223, then run a few rounds of wolf/tula all the way through the hotter ammo to make sure the rifle feeds, chambers, ejects and holds the bolt open in the last round as it should.

I am in Greensboro and if we can work out a time and place you are welcomed to shoot what I have, if you have an AR with a non adjustable gas block to shoot and then shoot mine you'll notice a difference,
 
Additionally, an adjustable gas block can allow you to use the lightest buffer possible.

I have heard the Hanson barrels have nicely sized gas ports though. Try it first with a standard buffer and see how it runs.
 
Additionally, an adjustable gas block can allow you to use the lightest buffer possible.

I have heard the Hanson barrels have nicely sized gas ports though. Try it first with a standard buffer and see how it runs.

I plan to run it normal first. If there is an issue, I can work towards fine tuning it with an SLR etc.
 
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Well, all parts have been ordered.

and-nowwe-wait.jpg
 
Update:

All parts have been received. @NKD and @Slappy McTrigger helped me assemble the upper. Well, @NKD helped and @Slappy McTrigger more or less stood around and shot the breeze. We'll call it moral support. Ha ha. The upper went together a lot easier than I was expecting. I'd never built an upper, and everything I had read said that it was harder than the lower. I'm not sure that is true. Except for the pin in the gas block, things went pretty smooth.


When it came time for the lower, I had a magazine catch that didn't fit so I got a new one at gun runners that does fit. I'm going to finish the lower hopefully this weekend when I have time. Can't wait to get out and shoot it.

Thanks to everyone who provided input and advice. This build is looking pretty good. Pics to come when it's done.
 
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Nope, just a barrel nut with some dielectric grease.
 
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Nope, just a barrel nut with some dielectric grease.
Like i said, shoot it for groups, disassemble, and glue it back in. I would almost guarantee better accuracy....
The next step is to true up and lap your reciever.

Almost every production AR on the market would benefit from these 2 steps alone.
 
ok, thanks for the tip. I'll look in to this if the groups aren't what I was expecting.

How do you true up and lap a reciever?
 
Are you saying to put the loctite on the receiver threads? How is green to remove if you decide to change a barrel?
its not the thread locker. You don't put it on the threads but around the barrel extension. It tightens up the barrel fit into the receiver. Use aeroshell or moly grease on threads
 
ok, thanks for the tip. I'll look in to this if the groups aren't what I was expecting.

How do you true up and lap a reciever?
use a tool from pacific tool and die, along with lapping compound.

I have seen these 2 steps turn a 4moa rifle into a 1 moa one overnight
 
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This doesn't really surprise me. It seems like it would be similar to glass bedding a rifle stock. We are custom mating two surfaces together. The AR wasn't designed to be a precision gun even though it does alright.
 
He also generously gave me an end plate without machine marks. The aero precision end plate looked pretty bad. Thanks man!
 
Looks good man. Been MIA from the forum for a bit so I missed this thread before you ordered parts. Everything looks good, I might suggest a Super42 buffer spring and an H2 buffer. Definitely helped felt recoil for my middy.
 
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Meh. Lo-mass BCG and 1 ounce plastic buffer with -10% spring is what you need!

And, cut gas at the port!
 
$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

100$ BCG
9$ spring
20$ buffer

Same cost or cheaper than any other parts. Add an adjustable gas block 50-100$.

Not really price prohibitive at all nowadays.
 
SLR is $103 at Right to Bear with gas tube. $93 if you don't need the gas tube.
 
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