First Suppressor on an AR

AR10ShooterinNC

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I picked up my first AR 556 suppressor Friday, a YHM Turbo T2. I took 100 rounds to an indoor range to test it on my 11.5 SBR. After shooting the rifle slow fire for 20 round, the suppressor heats up more than I thought it would. The back pressure was there, but even as a lefty it was tolerable. I have the H2 buffer installed now, I will purchase and try an H3 buffer, along with a stiffer spring. After finishing the rest of the ammo, suppressor are great, they really cut down on the crack of firing. Suppressors should be mandatory for rifles at indoor ranges.
 
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They really do heat up fast! I took possession of my first can over the summer and there really isn't any going back. The entire shooting experience is so much more pleasant!

Already thinking about the second can šŸ˜¬
 
They really do heat up fast! I took possession of my first can over the summer and there really isn't any going back. The entire shooting experience is so much more pleasant!

Already thinking about the second can šŸ˜¬
I already have one for rim fire, and an Obsidian 9 still in jail. Hoping to get it out end of next month.
 
I agree with everything in this thread. As Wayne said, I'm pretty much to the point I never shoot an AR unsuppressed, regardless of venue. I also have the Coletac cover and it's great.

I'll add that I think an A5 buffer system is a great addition to any AR you plan on suppressing. I think it helps with gas regulation and it definitely is more forgiving across ammo types.
 
I agree with everything in this thread. As Wayne said, I'm pretty much to the point I never shoot an AR unsuppressed, regardless of venue. I also have the Coletac cover and it's great.

I'll add that I think an A5 buffer system is a great addition to any AR you plan on suppressing. I think it helps with gas regulation and it definitely is more forgiving across ammo types.
X2 on the A5. It's the icing on the cake.
 
I agree with everything in this thread. As Wayne said, I'm pretty much to the point I never shoot an AR unsuppressed, regardless of venue. I also have the Coletac cover and it's great.

I'll add that I think an A5 buffer system is a great addition to any AR you plan on suppressing. I think it helps with gas regulation and it definitely is more forgiving across ammo types.
Can vouch, since changing to a5 my type a 10.5 finally eats steel.
 
I have a Recce 5.56, but like a dummy, I put it on side charger with a 8.5" (iirc) barrel.

It is very unpleasant to shoot, but I haven't bothered changing it up, as it doesn't see much use.
 
Why are you messing with the buffer weights if you didn't have any issues cycling?
Which direction were the cartridges ejecting?
 
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A5 makes a noticeable difference in recoil pulse to me. I will not hesitate to add them to any new builds.
 
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Keeping the ā€œcloverleafā€ around the gas tube clean will keep a lot of the gas out of your face, as well. A can of brake cleaner with a flexible tube works well. Flip your upper upside down and hit the ports when youā€™re cleaning your rifle.

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Yeahā€¦the gas is used to unlock the bolt and drive the carrier rearward, but as soon as the carrier key disengages from the gas tube, part of the gas is vented forward through those ā€œportsā€ in the gas tube chase. If that pass through for the gas tube was just a cylindrical hole, a bit bigger than the diameter of the tube, youā€™d be getting a hell of a lot more gas to your face.
 
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Keeping the ā€œcloverleafā€ around the gas tube clean will keep a lot of the gas out of your face, as well. A can of brake cleaner with a flexible tube works well. Flip your upper upside down and hit the ports when youā€™re cleaning your rifle.

View attachment 571169

Yeahā€¦the gas is used to unlock the bolt and drive the carrier rearward, but as soon as the carrier key disengages from the gas tube, part of the gas is vented forward through those ā€œportsā€ in the gas tube chase. If that pass through for the gas tube was just a cylindrical hole, a bit bigger than the diameter of the tube, youā€™d be getting a hell of a lot more gas to your face.
Thanks! That new to me info.
 
Someone educate me if if I'm wrong but I don't think changing buffer weights/springs will change much in the way of gas to the face. Main thing you need is a barrel with an appropriate gas port size.
Buffer weight is a band aid for those of us that cannot afford a custom barrel for our builds. It's a noticable difference on my mid length gas faxon 14.5 with a dead air nomad and 223 end cap. From my experience on an h2 a small puff of smoke is coming out of the ejection port I am not getting on an H3.
 
Someone educate me if if I'm wrong but I don't think changing buffer weights/springs will change much in the way of gas to the face. Main thing you need is a barrel with an appropriate gas port size.
That is what I understand as well. To reduce the gas out of the ejection port, the barrel and gas block system need to be addressed.

The buffer system will affect cycling speed, but not much beyond that.
 
Gases move from high pressure to low pressure. The higher the pressure differential the faster the gas will move. Heavier buffer prevents the action from opening allowing the pressure to drop some before the bolt unlocks and opens the holes on the side of your carrier. We are splitting hairs here but there is a difference. H2 to h3 you need to pay attention to notice (if any) change, but something more drastic like a carbine to h2 you will notice.

A heavier buffer will also do better when stripping a round from the magazine and pushing through all the gunk and grime your suppressor has pushed back into the upper.

H3 buffers are cheap, if you have a carbine and an h3 you can make any "standard" buffer weight to try in your gun. Watch the ejection pattern and where the brass/ steel is being thrown. Run the heaviest buffer you can with the proper ejection pattern.

Re-Barreling your gun with a proper gas port size is the best option but is next to impossible. Big name manufacturers typically so not disclose the gas port size and the idea of measuring it at your LGS before buying a barrel to test with your suppressor is kinda silly. Adjustable gas blocks exist but have their own issues with carbon locking. Black river tactical makes aftermarket gas tubes to choke off the gas so you don't have to play the barrel game. These things are expensive and to some extent there is testing you need to do on your end and you still need to fine tune the buffer weight situation.
 
I would rather be over gassed than under gassed. I was putting adjustable blocks on some of my old builds and all my new ones. When they were out of stock, I kept using the fixed gas blocks and did not have any problems. Now my brass is at a 2:30 position instead of the 4:00 position. I also believe that being a little over gas helps blow out some of the carbon.
 
If I suppress a BCM 11.5, which I've always heard is overgassed, will it damage itself or be unreliable, or just kick a bit harder?
Bootleg BCG in mine šŸ‘šŸ»

 
What barrels manufacturers aren't considered overgassed? Modern DD
Mk18 I've heard. Geissele? Anyone else? Maybe Criterion? Would like to build a midlength 13.9/14.5/16(haven't decided yet) in the near future.
 
Hello my name is Gray and Iā€™m new to the suppressor game. I started almost a year ago and now have 4 in my possession. Two more just got in lineā€¦

Had my Razor556 on only one AR so far. Itā€™s a 14.5 BA factory upper with a mid length gas system. I donā€™t even know what buffer Iā€™m running but it runs like a sewing machine and is not sending gas into my face. I experience near zero POA POI shift when adding the can.
 
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If I suppress a BCM 11.5, which I've always heard is overgassed, will it damage itself or be unreliable, or just kick a bit harder?
You wonā€™t damage anything just may find it uncomfortable to shoot for extended periods of time. Itā€™s hard to explain what gas to your face feels like but once you experience it youā€™ll know. Iā€™ve got an over gassed 12.5ā€ Larue but it bothers other people shooting it much more than it does me.
 
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