Form 1 silencer weirdos... Cerberus is going out of business . Don't wait...

@wired
Did you every find a source for cups/baffles for 1" tubes? ID would be 0.93" to 0.87". Stainless would be great.
I want to do an "integral" 5.56 barrel for a bolt action but my chassis will only take up to a 1" tube. It may be better to just get a different stock.

CHRIS
 
Yeah. The dhgate muzzle brakes work well in my .22s. they are 1" OD and stainless about 7 inches long. Turn them down to fit. delivery time was 2 days from Atlanta last few I ordered. Might not be the MOST effective thing on a 5.56 but they'll hold up better than most small diameter baffles.

www.dhgate.com/product/7inch-length-stainless-steel-compensator/475302354.html

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wired said:
Got my pile of cerberus parts yesterday. Glad I snatched them up while they were still around.
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Got mine today. I take it you're ignoring my PM asking if you've got an extra SS cone or 2. I ordered all titanium since they were out of SS cones. That puts a titanium cone at the muzzle tip. Not sure if that's going to work ok or not.

Also, folks on form 1 board say to use these for rifle cans, not pistol. Apparently a pistol can works much better with a close stack of radial cones. Some on there say to just double clip them and let them rip, but obviously I've got plenty of uses for 5.56 cans especially if I buy the KeyMo adapter. Choices, choices.

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Its not that I'm ignoring your PM. I just dont have extras. Ti will be fie for 90% of uses. especially pistol cans. ZERO difference between cones and radials that you will be able to hear.
 
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wired said:
Its not that I'm ignoring your PM. I just dont have extras. Ti will be fie for 90% of uses. especially pistol cans. ZERO difference between cones and radials that you will be able to hear.
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You didn't respond, so you were ignoring me! You could have just said that in PM and I could have moved on with my life. But nooooo....

So seriously, would these things make for a more impressive 5.56 can or 9MM Subgun can? I've got the 2" SS blast chamber baffle, so I'm thinking 5.56.
 
No problem. Just set the first one up with no clip or radial clips like SIG does. The spacer to first baffle interface doesnt matter .
 
Okay, as is often said you guys are costing me money so now y'all gotta walk me through this! The goal will be to build a rifle can.

(1) How long are those WaveLink wheels once they are mated together?
(2) Anyone try the WaveLink blems?
(3) Where would you recommend I source end caps?

The pic from JRHorne looks like maybe 9 wheels but what is the spacer at the bottom and what is the OAL of that stack?

Full disclosure I have a lathe (but no skill) and no milling machine.

ETA: I found the WaveLink wheel for the last position which doesn't nest and bears against the end cap. So they call the exposed sections "treads" which are .500" wide except the last one which is .375" - is that correct?
I don't see spacers, does that mean they are sold out or they don't offer them?
 
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1. As long as you make them. Depends on the number used. The 1/2" long ones are 1/2" at the skirt . 10 would be 5" long plus one cone length
2. Yeah. The sold those for a while I dont remember the exact size but I have a .45 can made with them that fit well in a 1.372 tube. They will not fint in a 1.355" tube.
3. Its all depends on your personal choice of end caps. I like the PPA caps.

If you have a lathe you are 90% there. You dont need a mill to bore or clip silencer baffles. A tool post holder for dremel tools does the other 10% .
 
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