Help with Future Planning - Metal Buildings

Pop N Shots

Pop N Shots

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I’m in need of a metal shop / garage and just getting started. Would like something along the lines of a 40x60. Also, would like for it to be tall enough for:
1) a car lift
2) to store / work on a boat with t-top
3) for a loft / mezzanine.

I would like to learn from your thoughts or mistakes, so I can avoid making them on my own and so that I can make the best informed decision when the time comes.

Let’s hear it, as I know you guys have good info to share.
 
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You'll need 14 feet of ceiling height for a 2 post, but probably more than that if you want a mezzanine.
Wire it, light it and insulate it before you put anything in it (a personal regret).
Do at least 12X12 overhead doors.
Chinese lifts work well for personal use, but get one a weight class higher than what you'd normally purchase.
Joe
 
JoeR said:
You'll need 14 feet of ceiling height for a 2 post, but probably more than that if you want a mezzanine.
Wire it, light it and insulate it before you put anything in it (a personal regret).
Do at least 12X12 overhead doors.
Chinese lifts work well for personal use, but get one a weight class higher than what you'd normally purchase.
Joe
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Good info and insight. Duly noted. Thank you.
 
We built a 30x40 with 9’ eave height. 2in insulation. 10 windows. 3 double doors (no garage doors). 200amp service with panel, outlets, LED lighting. Connected to existing septic with a 300’ lateral. Connected to existing well. PTAC AC unit (through the wall kind you’d find in a hotel room). 24” Louvered vent fan. Industrial epoxy floor coating. Framed 6’x6’ bathroom in the corner. Approximately 200cy of grading (maybe a little more—total guesstimate as we borrowed from on site).

59B7F73B-7428-42B9-896F-A2BF0BB36FD6.jpeg

This was using Better Built out of Midland. They resell Metal Building Experts. I have no complaints. Took a little pushing due to crew shortages and such. I think we paid the deposit in April. Grading was done by early May. Slab happened in July. Building popped up by August. The building is the easy part. Took maybe a couple days.

Now, these are 2021 dollars. NASA hasn’t figured out how to convert them to present day dollars yet. Also, we got permits for the building which added about $2,000 for plans, etc.

We looked at Morton and Several other reputable companies. There are some fly by night companies. I’ve personally been burned by one out of North Wilkesboro. You can visit Better Built’s office and see some examples on their lot.
 
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9outof10mms said:
We built a 30x40 with 9’ eave height. 2in insulation. 10 windows. 3 double doors (no garage doors). 200amp service with panel, outlets, LED lighting. Connected to existing septic with a 300’ lateral. Connected to existing well. PTAC AC unit (through the wall kind you’d find in a hotel room). 24” Louvered vent fan. Industrial epoxy floor coating. Framed 6’x6’ bathroom in the corner. Approximately 200cy of grading (maybe a little more—total guesstimate as we borrowed from on site).

View attachment 574344

This was using Better Built out of Midland. They resell Metal Building Experts. I have no complaints. Took a little pushing due to crew shortages and such. I think we paid the deposit in April. Grading was done by early May. Slab happened in July. Building popped up by August. The building is the easy part. Took maybe a couple days.

Now, these are 2021 dollars. NASA hasn’t figured out how to convert them to present day dollars yet. Also, we got permits for the building which added about $2,000 for plans, etc.

We looked at Morton and Several other reputable companies. There are some fly by night companies. I’ve personally been burned by one out of North Wilkesboro. You can visit Better Built’s office and see some examples on their lot.
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Awesome breakdown, info, and timeline. Thank you! In hindsight, anything you wish you would have omitted, changed or wish you would have added during the prep / build?
 
Pop N Shots said:
Awesome breakdown, info, and timeline. Thank you! In hindsight, anything you wish you would have omitted, changed or wish you would have added during the prep / build?
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Pour the pad 5 or 6 feet longer than the building (or better yet, make it a separate pad with an expansion joint, but have the same crew do it while they're doing the building pad). That way you've got a "front porch" that's not all muddy and tracking crap into the shop. We didn't and now I have to make a patio out of pavers or something else.
 
Given the goals stated I would say plan for a 14 foot tall door that way anything road legal would fit. That would let you put a larger boat, RV, etc inside.

Metal Building Expert put my RV Car port up the day before Hurricane Ian blew through - still looks good.

At the risk of stating the obvious once the building goes up size and location are set and you will most likely second guess. So plan carefully.
 
DogFather said:
Given the goals stated I would say plan for a 14 foot tall door that way anything road legal would fit. That would let you put a larger boat, RV, etc inside.

Metal Building Expert put my RV Car port up the day before Hurricane Ian blew through - still looks good.

At the risk of stating the obvious once the building goes up size and location are set and you will most likely second guess. So plan carefully.
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Great advice. Thank you.
 
9outof10mms said:
Pour the pad 5 or 6 feet longer than the building (or better yet, make it a separate pad with an expansion joint, but have the same crew do it while they're doing the building pad). That way you've got a "front porch" that's not all muddy and tracking crap into the shop. We didn't and now I have to make a patio out of pavers or something else.
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I had thought about this and tossed about $$ vs benefit. Sounds like it would be worth the money. Thanks for bringing this up.

Thinking about a padded lean-to on the end or side, as well.
 
Make sure the corrugation runs vertical not horizontal on both the walls and roof. It is cheaper to run it horizontally as there a fewer cuts but material will collet on the roof and dew will settle on the top of the corrugation on the walls and mildew. It makes it significantly harder to seal the corners of the building as well.
 
keepcalmandcarryon said:
Make sure the corrugation runs vertical not horizontal on both the walls and roof. It is cheaper to run it horizontally as there a fewer cuts but material will collet on the roof and dew will settle on the top of the corrugation on the walls and mildew. It makes it significantly harder to seal the corners of the building as well.
Click to expand...

I have never seen horizontally ran metal roofing. Is that even a thing?

Interior I can understand someone doing it from a cost perspective.
 
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