Help with Zero Turn

J R Green

J R Green

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I have a zero turn with a Kawasaki FS730v engine that won't stay running. It fires up fine but dies a second later. Like it used the gas in the carb and couldn't get more. The fuel pump shoves gas through as long as the starter is turning the engine. New fuel filter which is in front of the pump anyway so it's not that... The fuel shutoff solenoid engages and disengages fine and I just replaced all that with a new carburetor and switch to no avail too. What am I missing?

Maybe some of you have an Idea / have had the same issue? @LeeMajors Got anything?
 
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New gas? Any old gas left in the tank from last season? I was having the same issue this year. Had to drain the tank, refilll with new non ethanol with seafoam. Corrected the issue.
 
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When my Scag did that a couple of years ago (29hp Kawasaki DFI) the problem turned out to be a bad connection to a relay located in the instrument panel area.
 
Maybe the safety circuits are tripping?

The switch that triggers if getting off mower with blades engaged or not in park.

Sometimes I need to wiggle the handle bars a few times as well
 
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RR said:
New gas? Any old gas left in the tank from last season? I was having the same issue this year. Had to drain the tank, refilll with new non ethanol with seafoam. Corrected the issue.
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New gas.

I was testing the solenoid the other day and it decided to run... for about 20 minutes. It seemed to bog down on an incline here and there before it died completely if that helps.
 
LeeMajors said:
The switch itself
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On these, does unplugging the low oil switch bypass it? Or do you have to jump the wires?
I have a Honda engine on a piece of equipment, and suspected the low oil switch. I could bypass it by just unplugging that switch. I check the oil anyway, so I don’t need that switch
 
DangerRuss said:
On these, does unplugging the low oil switch bypass it? Or do you have to jump the wires?
I have a Honda engine on a piece of equipment, and suspected the low oil switch. I could bypass it by just unplugging that switch. I check the oil anyway, so I don’t need that switch
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I believe you just unplug it on a honda. Tape it so it doesn’t ground out.
 
It's got me thinking. Could it run as long as the starter is engaged and stop when it goes back to ignition? It was pissing me off and I just held the starter on and it ran until I let it go the other day.
 
J R Green said:
It's got me thinking. Could it run as long as the starter is engaged and stop when it goes back to ignition? It was pissing me off and I just held the starter on and it ran until I let it go the other day.
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thats what i was thinking with post #6. could be caused by faulty ignition switch, or a bad wire going to the switch.
 
J R Green said:
It's got me thinking. Could it run as long as the starter is engaged and stop when it goes back to ignition? It was pissing me off and I just held the starter on and it ran until I let it go the other day.
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That’s what my Scag was doing. The starter and ignition are directly fed by the key switch, but t he run position is fed by the relay (has all of hte low oil / high temp shutdowns wired into the relay). IT’s just your basis Bosch automotive relay. When the motor switched over from the start circuit it would die.
 
J R Green said:
It's got me thinking. Could it run as long as the starter is engaged and stop when it goes back to ignition? It was pissing me off and I just held the starter on and it ran until I let it go the other day.
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Put a meter on the hot side of the coil. Turn the ignition on run. The coil should be powered. If not the ignition switch or the oil pressure switch are bad. How the pressure switch wired or used would help determine exactly which one is bad.

To prove: Jump the hot side of the coil to +12v from the battery and start.
 
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I had the same issue on my John Deere standon. I changed my ignition key switch, and the relay under the switch, which the wires go to. I knew it was one or the other but forgot to try them independently. I would try the relay first, or pull the key switch and ohm the terminals as you turn the switch.

I feel the pain. I went to start both my push mowers and neither would start because I didn’t crank either during the winter as I normally do. Now its take apart carburetor weekend days.
 
My Turf Tiger died on me last year but at least it was in my own yard. I couldnt get her to do anything, no power to nothing. Checked fuses and other stuff with no luck. Sitting on her, pissed off, I remembered the PTO issues i had with an older mower so i done the "reset" trick and she fired right up with no more issues since.
 
MCQUADE said:
My Turf Tiger died on me last year but at least it was in my own yard. I couldnt get her to do anything, no power to nothing. Checked fuses and other stuff with no luck. Sitting on her, pissed off, I remembered the PTO issues i had with an older mower so i done the "reset" trick and she fired right up with no more issues since.
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What is the reset trick?
 
rdinatal said:
Put a meter on the hot side of the coil. Turn the ignition on run. The coil should be powered. If not the ignition switch or the oil pressure switch are bad. How the pressure switch wired or used would help determine exactly which one is bad.

To prove: Jump the hot side of the coil to +12v from the battery and start.
Click to expand...
Ok I'm a little slow, as I rode the short bus slow, when it comes meters. What setting should it be on for testing something like this?
 
DogFather said:
Maybe the safety circuits are tripping?

The switch that triggers if getting off mower with blades engaged or not in park.

Sometimes I need to wiggle the handle bars a few times as well
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I have owned to large zero machines (60")and the above post is what 9 times out of 10 was my problem when they started then quit asap. One addition is one had a switch that if you butt wasn't putting pressure on the seat the damn thing would start and stop. Aggravating as heck. I would bounce up and down on it a couple times , all good.lol
 
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