Homely K Frame

Just Tripp

Just Tripp

A Nice Guy
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 7, 2017
Messages
1,353
Location
West End
Rating - 100%
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I like used ugly Smith revolvers. Maybe that’s what I can usually afford, but I digress. Got this 10-7 from PSA as a police trade-in. Cleaned it up, lubricated the innards (it was DRY) and slapped some Renaissance Wax on her. I know - lipstick on a pig, but it helped a little.

Before:

IMG_4445.jpegIMG_4445.jpegIMG_4446.jpeg

After:

IMG_4454.jpegIMG_4453.jpeg
 
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Just Tripp said:
I like used ugly Smith revolvers. Maybe that’s what I can usually afford, but I digress. Got this 10-7 from PSA as a police trade-in. Cleaned it up, lubricated the innards (it was DRY) and slapped some Renaissance Wax on her. I know - lipstick on a pig, but it helped a little.

Before:

View attachment 708539View attachment 708539View attachment 708542

After:

View attachment 708543View attachment 708544
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Mine came in today from PSA. a little better condition than yours but still ugly as hell. I’ve almost finished rounding the butt and after a little trigger job it will make a great shooter. You just can’t beat a 3” K frame
 
WFR said:
@Etruett and @Just Tripp are these still available at PSA?
I like ugly S&W’s too!
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I think they ran out. There were -5’s and -7’s and I was too late for the -5. @Etruett mine has some cylinder side to side play at lockup. I think the bolt may need replaced. It locks up when the hammer comes to full cock, but there’s a little bit of slop side to side.
 
Just Tripp said:
I think they ran out. There were -5’s and -7’s and I was too late for the -5. @Etruett mine has some cylinder side to side play at lockup. I think the bolt may need replaced. It locks up when the hammer comes to full cock, but there’s a little bit of slop side to side.
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I’d shoot it and see how it performs. If it doesn’t split lead, then shoot the snot out of it. Mine has a little play buy I don’t think it wi cause any issues. I’ll know this afternoon.
 
Etruett said:
I’d shoot it and see how it performs. If it doesn’t split lead, then shoot the snot out of it. Mine has a little play buy I don’t think it wi cause any issues. I’ll know this afternoon.
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If it does, just set the barrel back and keep shooting.
 
Just Tripp said:
I think they ran out. There were -5’s and -7’s and I was too late for the -5. @Etruett mine has some cylinder side to side play at lockup. I think the bolt may need replaced. It locks up when the hammer comes to full cock, but there’s a little bit of slop side to side.
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Here’s mine after round butting and adding a decent set of grips. Did a little trigger job and polished the face Of the trigger smooth. Shoots Great. Once a bob the hammer, I’ll be doneIMG_9865.jpeg
 
Etruett said:
Here’s mine after round butting and adding a decent set of grips. Did a little trigger job and polished the face Of the trigger smooth. Shoots Great. Once a bob the hammer, I’ll be doneView attachment 709021
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Yes, yours looks better! I was thinking about bobbing the hammer on mine, too. You talked me into it! Are those Rogers grips?
 
Just Tripp said:
Yes, yours looks better! I was thinking about bobbing the hammer on mine, too. You talked me into it! Are those Rogers grips?
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I think they might be Thailand but can’t remember. I saw them in the box and put them on. I’ll pull them tomorrow and see what’s inside. I got impatient after modifying the frame and working on the action or I would have already done the hammer. Wanted to shoot it a little. The DA was on the heavy side and rough when I got it. The inside was clean but dry as a bone. Lube would have helped it some and new springs would have helped lighten the pull, but I wanted it smoother. I’m satisfied mine has not been shot much, but whoever carried it was not careful about the finish and mine also had what I suspect was a rack number crudely etched at the top of rgethe butt. Thought about having it glass beaded and then rust bluing but I’m leaving it as is except the hammer. Not a bad buy in my opinion.
 
Etruett said:
Here’s mine after round butting and adding a decent set of grips. Did a little trigger job and polished the face Of the trigger smooth. Shoots Great. Once a bob the hammer, I’ll be done
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Could bobbing the hammer cause light strikes (less inertia), or is that an old wives' tale?
I remember reading that the NYPD did that and had all sorts of trouble, then read somewhere else that the trouble may not have been from the lightened hammer.
 
Etruett said:
I think they might be Thailand but can’t remember. I saw them in the box and put them on. I’ll pull them tomorrow and see what’s inside. I got impatient after modifying the frame and working on the action or I would have already done the hammer. Wanted to shoot it a little. The DA was on the heavy side and rough when I got it. The inside was clean but dry as a bone. Lube would have helped it some and new springs would have helped lighten the pull, but I wanted it smoother. I’m satisfied mine has not been shot much, but whoever carried it was not careful about the finish and mine also had what I suspect was a rack number crudely etched at the top of rgethe butt. Thought about having it glass beaded and then rust bluing but I’m leaving it as is except the hammer. Not a bad buy in my opinion.
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IMG_4449.jpegMine has the number, too.
IMG_4447.jpeg
Dry as a bone inside.
 
Dan0311 said:
Could bobbing the hammer cause light strikes (less inertia), or is that an old wives' tale?
I remember reading that the NYPD did that and had all sorts of trouble, then read somewhere else that the trouble may not have been from the lightened hammer.
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Ive Personally never had it happen but have heard people say they had to adjust the strain screw to give the spring a little more tension.
 
Fella in gunsmithing wanted to Bob the hammer on his old Smith. He wanted it flush with the frame. It did give him light strikes afterwards bc he removed too much mass from the hammer. Went to a heavier spring and i believe it worked fine, although the trigger wasn't as nice as he would have liked.
 
Sometimes bobbing the hammer improves strikes in DA as the lower inertia allows faster travel.
Old PPC gunsmiths used to lighten the hammer in order to get the lightest possible DA trigger pulls.
I’m surprised to hear this had the reverse effect.
 
Mr. Bggs said:
Fella in gunsmithing wanted to Bob the hammer on his old Smith. He wanted it flush with the frame. It did give him light strikes afterwards bc he removed too much mass from the hammer. Went to a heavier spring and i believe it worked fine, although the trigger wasn't as nice as he would have liked.
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It's been a while, but I thought I had read that there were special bobbed hammers made for this.
 
I think you're right, but when you're in the gunsmithing program, everybody wants to try everything out since you can fix what you screw up. It's like a chop shop for guns. Was a lot of fun.

Guys would Cut springs short to see what would happen and then just go make a new spring if things went wrong.

Some People had more sense than others. But it was fun. The teacher made a commander out of a gov model. Took him forever to get it to work right and afterwards he regretted it. But the learning through trial and error there was awesome.
 
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Jmoser said:
Sometimes bobbing the hammer improves strikes in DA as the lower inertia allows faster travel.
Old PPC gunsmiths used to lighten the hammer in order to get the lightest possible DA trigger pulls.
I’m surprised to hear this had the reverse effect.
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I'm far from an expert. My guess is it's math(which im terrible at). Weight and speed. Both can be played with to get one higher or lower if desired. My benchmate bobbed a mod 60 but left a tiny piece to get his thumb on if he ever wanted to use single action and his worked fine, that's also after he added lighter springs.
 
Dan0311 said:
It's been a while, but I thought I had read that there were special bobbed hammers made for this.
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You used to be able to buy factory spare parts, I bought a spare spurred hammer for a DA only police trade in which were all factory made with bobbed spurless hammers.
Some LEO depts ordered them like that back in the day.
Bobbed my own J frame 60 and it’s flawless.
 
Jmoser said:
You used to be able to buy factory spare parts, I bought a spare spurred hammer for a DA only police trade in which were all factory made with bobbed spurless hammers.
Some LEO depts ordered them like that back in the day.
Bobbed my own J frame 60 and it’s flawless.
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Yep, I was issued one of those DAO spurless model 64's.
I thought I read that the spurless hammers were actually more dense to help with inertia. Not sure if true though.
 
With an older gun with unknown history, it's possible someone shortened the strain screw. Sometimes this is obvious, but if they did a nice job it may not be. You can take a used small primer, remove the anvil, beat the dimple out with a punch, then put it between the screw and spring to increase the tension. This may help, and it's cheap and easy.
 
Here's my old Model 36 that we bobbed. It still has enough weight left to where I've never had a light strike. I think these old guns with character look better than a shiney new gun.

Model 36 w ammo.jpg
 
Mr. Bggs said:
I think you're right, but when you're in the gunsmithing program, everybody wants to try everything out since you can fix what you screw up. It's like a chop shop for guns. Was a lot of fun.

Guys would Cut springs short to see what would happen and then just go make a new spring if things went wrong.

Some People had more sense than others. But it was fun. The teacher made a commander out of a gov model. Took him forever to get it to work right and afterwards he regretted it. But the learning through trial and error there was awesome.
Click to expand...
My favorite instructor in college would always say, that if you really want to know how something works, cut it open.
We cut everything. The school had one of those old huge-ass Rockwell bandsaws from the 50's and it feared nothing.
So you know what I tell the young guys now?
If you really want to know how something works, cut it open. 🙂
 
Friday said:
My favorite instructor in college would always say, that if you really want to know how something works, cut it open.
We cut everything. The school had one of those old huge-ass Rockwell bandsaws from the 50's and it feared nothing.
So you know what I tell the young guys now?
If you really want to know how something works, cut it open. 🙂
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That's how it was for us. With a full machine shop with plenty of steel and wood laying around and 2 instructors that could help you fix anything.... it was open season. Really fun times, i wish i had done so much more while there.

Oh and the welding shop was across from us too.

I believe that every member here would be like a kid in a candy store there.
 
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Mr. Bggs said:
My guess is it's math(which im terrible at). Weight and speed. Both can be played with to get one higher or lower if desired
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Since:
Force = Mass x Acceleration (F=MA), changing either mass or acceleration will change force applied. A drop in mass can be compensated with an increase in acceleration, or vice versa.
 
GoWolfpack said:
Since:
Force = Mass x Acceleration (F=MA), changing either mass or acceleration will change force applied. A drop in mass can be compensated with an increase in acceleration, or vice versa.
Click to expand...
There it is. I knew someone could explain it better than i could. Thanks partner.


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