How do YOU keep direct thread cans from coming loose?

Tim

Tim

Checked Out
Staff member
2A Bourbon Hound 2024
2A Bourbon Hound OG
Charter Life Member
Benefactor
Vendor
Multi-Factor Enabled
Joined
Dec 17, 2016
Messages
16,523
Location
A Glass Cage of Emotion
Rating - 100%
85   0   0
SiCo Omega with factory direct thread mount...kept coming loose after a handful of rounds of 5.56.

How do YOU keep direct thread cans where they're supposed to be?
 
One idea I've seen is people who degrease the threads on the barrel and put a dot of loctite in the middle. Let it roll down to where it hangs off the bottom and let it cure there. Acts like a Nylok screw and provides friction in the suppressor threads without messing with alignment.
 
Teflon tape. Used to use the white, but have switched to yellow. But I’m not proactively changing any, just switching whenever I remove one for some reason.

To clarify…this is for pistol and rimfire cans. The only thing close to a DT rifle can I have is a Turbo K on my PS90 SBR. But the tape works on my AR-9s and AR-45 just fine.
 
Last edited:
Hashknife said:
Spring Washer-
.022" thick

Many O.D. & I.D. combos avaliable from a specialty fastener supply..

View attachment 615472
Click to expand...
I’d hesitate to use one not knowing if it compresses evenly or is a consistent thickness over the whole area. Same reason every manufacturer tells you not to use a crush washer with a silencer.

Not saying they won’t work…but there are definitely safer options IMHO.
 
BigWaylon said:
I’d hesitate to use one not knowing if it compresses evenly or is a consistent thickness over the whole area. Same reason every manufacturer tells you not to use a crush washer with a silencer.

Not saying they won’t work…but there are definitely safer options IMHO.
Click to expand...
A crush washer is not the same as a spring washer.
Spring washers are used in precision/ aircraft applications where a crush washer would fail to secure, and clearance issues prohibit a jam nut.

Try one!! Ya might like it! 👌
 
Last edited:
Hashknife said:
A crush washer is not the same as a spring washer.
Spring washers are used in precision/ aircraft applications where a crush washer would fail to secure, and clearance issues prohibit a jam nut.
Click to expand...
I understand they’re not the same. Still not my first (or second) choice for the reasons I mentioned.
 
gunn24 said:
Pardon me, not trying to hijack the OP thread. Is the PS90 SBR suppressed the most fun combo out there? Always wanted one of those
Click to expand...
Nope. Too expensive to be considered the most fun. 🤣🤣
 
BigWaylon said:
I understand they’re not the same. Still not my first (or second) choice for the reasons I mentioned.
Click to expand...
With all due respect, Im not trying to be difficult at all.. only informative from my personal experiences.
Spring Washers are already being used in this application.
The washers are made in Lancaster, SC.

www.accutrex.com

Shims, Shim Stock, Gaskets & Washers Manufacturer | AccuTrex Products, Inc.

Accutrex President Named 2020 Pittsburgh Vetrepreneur of the Year
www.accutrex.com www.accutrex.com

Screenshot_20230508-152738.png

The weather is getting nice. The invitation to come shoot at the private range is open to you. We have enough steel to set up just about anything you want.
Lets plan a day and shoot and talk guns!
 
install, fire a few shots, use tactical oven mitt to make sure it's tightened up again once it heats up. then try to remember to break it free before it starts cooling again.

Hashknife said:
With all due respect, Im not trying to be difficult at all.. only informative from my personal experiences.
Spring Washers are already being used in this application.
The washers are made in Lancaster, SC.
Click to expand...
Nobody is doubting you or that they are used in the applications you mentioned.
The difference is that in the applications you mentioned, there may not be the same known history of a 3000fps projectile about 16" in front of your face, being driven by an explosion right under your neck, suddenly demonstrating that some washers might not set the can perfectly straight once they get tightened down. It's great if you have found that it works for you. maybe you have a very high grade of washer that has a much lower chance of introduction variations than other people have had with some things.
 
It looks like there's slots for a spanner wrench. Did it come with one by any chance? You could give it the ole ugga dugga to the german spec, gutentight
 
Well, I for one, will be happy to try out a spring washer if the Teflon tape doesn’t work.

They seem like a viable option to me.
 
Last edited:
Maybe check the spring washer in a few places with the ball micrometer you have for measuring neck thickness?
 
DrScaryGuy said:
install, fire a few shots, use tactical oven mitt to make sure it's tightened up again once it heats up. then try to remember to break it free before it starts cooling again.


Nobody is doubting you or that they are used in the applications you mentioned.
The difference is that in the applications you mentioned, there may not be the same known history of a 3000fps projectile about 16" in front of your face, being driven by an explosion right under your neck, suddenly demonstrating that some washers might not set the can perfectly straight once they get tightened down. It's great if you have found that it works for you. maybe you have a very high grade of washer that has a much lower chance of introduction variations than other people have had with some things.
Click to expand...
Aerospace spring washers are generally ground to +/- .0002" on the thickness tolerance. They are far more precision than a regular washer.

The can,thread,barrel shoulder interface might be +/-.005". This interface is what determines alignment, not the washer. The spring washer cannot create misalignment in any way.

The OP asked for a solution. I simply offered an easy solution that has been proven effective many times by myself and for several clients.
FB_IMG_1647529674053.jpg



My solution comes from experience, not speculation. Any advice I give on this forum is from proven experience and is offered to help in the best possible way. I also offered to host a range day to shoot and discuss firearms. All I got back was some static.
I will even offer to host the Friday lunch gathering at the range to shoot and discuss firearms. The range is about 30 min. from the gathering place in Pineville.
Any takers??
 
I just assume they always come loose, and tighten them up after every mag.
 
Tim said:
Teflon tape seems easy enough. I’ll give that a go. This is just until I get a dedicated can for this rifle.
Click to expand...
Sounds like (from the other thread) this worked out ok? Did you use white or yellow?
 
Cool.

It’s real easy to do, just make sure it’s on the threads and not up against the shoulder. Simple to replace if you have to remove the can more than a couple times.

And that one roll will last quite awhile.
 
I really like teflon tape, but above 450 degress or thereabouts it breaks down and releases phosgene gas. So, when you’re doing extended mag dumps avoid sniffing your can.
 
I use Teflon tape made for natural gas use. It is thicker than the white, and comes off easier. But the easier and cleaner solution is a rubber o-ring that is a snug fit around the threads.
 
GymB said:
I really like teflon tape, but above 450 degress or thereabouts it breaks down and releases phosgene gas. So, when you’re doing extended mag dumps avoid sniffing your can.
Click to expand...
As a former Chemical Weapons Tecnical Escort in the Army you'd have to sniff a LOT more phosgene than that.
 
wired said:
As a former Chemical Weapons Tecnical Escort in the Army you'd have to sniff a LOT more phosgene than that.
Click to expand...
Yes, I forgot the purple font.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom