Light gathering….

Cluck Norris

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So I have an ar10 and I’m finally getting around to getting an optic for it. But I’m wondering about low light(dawn and dusk) light gathering and how it works. I will use this rifle hunting, and I’m playing with the idea of a 1-6or 8, a 2-7, or a 3-12. How much difference will there be between the 1-6or8 versus the others?
 
Well the higher objective the better the light gathering. I most run 30mm tubes and 50mm objectives on all my hunting rifles with a few exceptions. The better quality lens the better you’ll see. Not always the more money you spend though. I have a Vortex Viper HS and it stinks in low light conditions. I’ve had to quit hunting 30 minutes before last shooting light.

I wouldn’t think you’d see any difference in the 1-6 vs 1-8. I’ve always had good luck with Leupold but recently started running Burris Fullfield IV and the Veracity and have been impressed with what I can see early morning and last evenings.

Oh and just know that the AR10 is really heavy paired with a x50 scope. At least my M&P10 is
 
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Well the higher objective the better the light gathering. I most run 30mm tubes and 50mm objectives on all my hunting rifles with a few exceptions. The better quality lens the better you’ll see. Not always the more money you spend though. I have a Vortex Viper HS and it stinks in low light conditions. I’ve had to quit hunting 30 minutes before last shooting light.

I wouldn’t think you’d see any difference in the 1-6 vs 1-8. I’ve always had good luck with Leupold but recently started running Burris Fullfield IV and the Veracity and have been impressed with what I can see early morning and last evenings.

Oh and just know that the AR10 is really heavy paired with a x50 scope. At least my M&P10 is
My ar10 will be under 9lbs with scope and mount as long as I am judicious with my optic choice. Considering every optic I’m looking at is a 30mm tube then will it be pretty similar across the board? Or will the larger objective of the 2-7 make that much of a difference
 
Or will the larger objective of the 2-7 make that much of a difference
I think it does. I have hunted with all sizes, zooms and objectives and know that I can afford to put quality scopes on, a 30mm tube with a 50mm objective is by far the best configuration. But if you are set on using a 1-6/8 or a 2-7 then I’d lean towards the 2-7. I assume it’s a 32mm objective. I think it will make a lot of difference. I have a couple 1-4 and 1-6 and I’m definitely straining to see in low light. If there’s a way you can compare then I’d try to. Good quality glass makes a world of difference also.
 
No such thing as light gathering. It can't be sucked in. However, bigger objectives and better lens rating are helpful in low light. Just remember, the light transmission rating is for a single lens. There are multiple lenses stacked in every scope. This is industry standard rating technique.

As example, a rating of 94% is at 1 lens, and total percentage of light transmitted to your eye drops with each additional lens in the body....so 94% rating can be as low as 40-60% at your eye. But it looks clear and bright cause it's magnified size and more sharply focused than your eye can be unaided .

Non optics technicians can effectively shop by price and name brand. And, ask around, which you are doing.

I've found the mid grade leupolds and Swarovski z3 (40-50 mm objectives , 1 in tubes) to be very fine low light hunters all in(mounted) under $1000

Similarity, I've found most all 36 mm and under objective scopes to be noticeably poorer low light performers regardless of brand/price.

Also, very helpful for low light is an uncluttered reticle with heavy to fine cross hairs. For low lite, skip all the dots, dashes, doodads, lines and numerals that come on the kiddy scopes.

Finally, for low light, keep it close to your eye so other ambient doesn't wash out your focus. This eliminates midbarrel optics (scout style) as serious low light contenders.
 
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What sharps and r rope said. :) With the added caveat that any exit pupil over 7.1 to 6.0 ( depending on your age and eyes) really isn’t helpful. Where larger objectives matter is in seeing a wider FOV - therefore helping your brain interpret what it’s seeing… or meeting the max exit pupil at higher magnification. ( obj lense diameter/ magnification x light transmission % = exit pupil)
At 3-9 x 40, given 100% light transmission- can have an exit pupil from 13.3 to 4.4. Larger diameter tubes help with edge to edge clarity by making the “ light cone” larger, as well as being a bit more robust.

Just remember that any system is as weak as its weakest link- and you’ll be good. Mid grade leupolds or equivalent are good- I’ve been impressed with the few German optics I have.
I did a head to head of 5 different leupolds at the same magnification for low light hunting. The only difference between the VX -3HD and VX- 5HD happened in the last 10 minutes of legal light .. in a state where you have 60 mo utes after sunset. Best reticle was the heavy to light. Worst was the fine duplex reticle . Twilight hunters from leu also have a red dot that’s hugely helpful .

I’m a 50 year old guy with pretty bad eyes, who’s been essentially destined to blindness at some point in my life- so I’m kind of an optics nerd. :)

:)
 
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I don’t have anything to add about the optics you mentioned but just something I’ve noticed that’s probably common sense.

I use a razor 1-10 and when shooting at night there’s a big difference in how bright the image is at different zoom ranges. 10 power will be pretty dark but I can crank it back to 5-6x and the image will be a lot lighter with a lot more definition.
 
Swarovski Z6i series.....
90% Light transmission

I run a Z6i 1x6 on my Armalite AR-10. It is fantastic glass.


 
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Swarovski Z6i series.....
90% Light transmission

I run a Z6i 1x6 on my Armalite AR-10. It is fantastic glass.


And camera land NY - a supporter of the forum- Carries Swarovski as well as Steiner. I put a 7x57 Steiner red dot on a 450 Busmaster SBR. Bulletproof optic .
 
And camera land NY - a supporter of the forum- Carries Swarovski as well as Steiner. I put a 7x57 Steiner red dot on a 450 Busmaster SBR. Bulletproof optic .
Yes!

Very thankful for their support of this forum!


Swarovski ain't cheap, but their clarity in low light conditions is globally renowned.
I consider it "Investment" Glass.


I run this mount with my AR10/Swarovski combo. I like to match high quality scopes with high quality mounts.

 
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