My DIY enclosed trailer interior lighting

ES44AC

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I wanted interior lighting in my enclosed trailer that ran off of my cordless tool batteries and I finally put it all together.

I used a power wheels adapter and a low voltage shutdown module as the core of the system. Built my box . I used separate switches incase I want to limit the current draw.20240202_095110.jpg20240202_095058.jpg
 
Upgrade for Power Wheels kids riding toy cars/trucks to use Dewalt or Milwaukee batteries. Makes them really fast.
If you have a kid or grand kid that rides a power wheels type toy its a great upgrade makes it faster and the battery recharges are much faster. Plenty of videos on youtube how to do it and also gets you thinking about other projects like this one the op posted and how to do those.
 
This is a really cool idea!
I had never heard of these adaptors before, and thank you to @1075tech for the link - only 13 bucks? I may snag one soon...just because.

I guess wiring is pretty simple? What's in the box (in my best Brad Pitt voice)?

Super cool idea to get some power without a generator.
I also second the idea for solar panels, I had bought some for my enclosed trailer, never installed, and once the series I raced with shut their doors I ended up selling the panels. But I didnt give up on the idea, one day I'll do it


If you have a kid or grand kid that rides a power wheels type toy its a great upgrade makes it faster and the battery recharges are much faster. Plenty of videos on youtube how to do it and also gets you thinking about other projects like this one the op posted and how to do those.
You just responded to the OP lol And said the same thing about them being faster with it.
 
This is a really cool idea!
I had never heard of these adaptors before, and thank you to @1075tech for the link - only 13 bucks? I may snag one soon...just because.

I guess wiring is pretty simple? What's in the box (in my best Brad Pitt voice)?

Super cool idea to get some power without a generator.
I also second the idea for solar panels, I had bought some for my enclosed trailer, never installed, and once the series I raced with shut their doors I ended up selling the panels. But I didnt give up on the idea, one day I'll do it



You just responded to the OP lol And said the same thing about them being faster with it.

The board with the display is so you don't over drain the battery.
20240202_095035.jpg
 
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The Dewalt 20v from what I've read is safe down to 15 vdc drain. If you run them too low it won't charge anymore. The tools have protection for this built in.

Not sure what other manufacturers low number is .

I don't want to mess with the solar at this time.
 
being able to just swap out batteries so easily I wouldn't even bother with the solar.

There are ways to bring a dewalt battery back that has been drained too far but its best to try to avoid it.
 
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If someone were new (like, REAL new) to wiring, how hard would this be to complete?
Ive soldered some wires and capacitors before, but not much wiring stuff at all
 
Low voltage shutdown;

2 PCS Low Voltage Cutoff, Icstation DC 12V-36V Low Voltage Disconnect 20A Over Discharge Protection Low Voltage Protector Disconnect Switch Module for Lead Acid Lithium Battery Solar Panel Light https://a.co/d/hSxOew8

Lever wire connectors

GKEEMARS 10 Pcs Lever Wire Connectors, Quick Wiring Cable Connector Push-in Conductor Terminal Block (2 in 6 Out) https://a.co/d/8jmjUmY

Dewalt 20v battery adapter

Upgraded 20V Battery Adapter for Dewalt 20V Battery Adapter All-in-one Design of The Fuse and Switch Power Tool Battery Converter Kit 14 Gauge with Fuses & Wire Terminals https://a.co/d/fBtMlqg

Led lights

12V Interior LED Light Bar, 48 LEDs Light Strip with Switch, 6500K LED Lighting for Car Trailer Truck Bed Van RV Cargo Boat Cabinet Slim Enclosed Trailer Lights Fixture (4 Pack) https://a.co/d/8DG9m8Z

Switches

DaierTek Marine Switch Panel Waterproof 12V 3 Gang Rocker Switch Panel Blue LED Light Toggle Switch Aluminum Panel Pre-Wired for Car Truck Boat RV UTV ATV RZR https://a.co/d/bWmBLfs
 
Alternative battery adapters


2 Packs Power Wheel Adapter for Milwaukee M18 Battery Adapter 18V Power Wheels Battery Converter with Fuses & Wire Terminals, 12AWG Wire, Power Connector for DIY Rc Car Toys, Robotics and Rc Truck https://a.co/d/fjrQCYQ

Power Wheel Adapter for Makita 18V Battery with Fuse & Switch & Wire terminals,Power Connector for Rc Car, Robotics, Rc Truck,DIY use, Work with for Makita BL1860 BL1850 BL1840 BL1830 Li-ion Battery https://a.co/d/4kxwoiA

Power Wheel Adapter for Ridgid AEG 18V Hyper li-ion Battery with Fuse & Wire terminals, Power Connector for Rc Car, 14 Gauge Robotics, Rc Truck, DIY use, Work for Rigid L1815R B1820R L1830R Battery https://a.co/d/9zBY8uc

RVBOATPAT Power Wheel Battery Adapter for Ryobi Battery Adapter Battery Converter Kit 12 AWG Wire with Fuses and Connectors for Robotic RC Car Toy https://a.co/d/aJlb2e9

DEWDYS Power Wheel Adapter for V20 Craftsman 20V Battery with Fuse, Power Connector for Rc Car,14 Gauge Robotics, Rc Truck,DIY use,Work Lights,Work for MAX CMCB204 CMCB202 CMCB201 CMCS500B Battery https://a.co/d/dVfPWP3
 

Google Power wheels adapter for (your type of battery)


@LizardKing has a friend who made some lights using the adapter and his 3D printer. I use the one he did for me often, it's my go to light in the garage. It puts out so much light volume you just point it in the general direction and go to work.


Light.jpg

.
 
Waking this thread up...

I find I am in need of some lighting in a storage area w/no 110v nearby. This design has appeal!

I looked up the things on your parts list (thank you) and saw this, regarding your low voltage disconnects:

It can only work with a single battery, not work well with the battery in parallel(battery pack). Most big batteries are made of many small batteries inside, such as Mil-waukee/ De-walt battery. So we don't recommend you to use it with these batteries.

I'm green at sparky-stuff, so I have a few questions if you don't mind:

Have you had or do you anticipate any cordless-tool battery-protection issues related to the above?

Are you running 12v-rated LEDs on 20v Dewalt batteries w/o a converter/controller or some way to step down the voltage? I'll be using Milwaukee 18v, so similar situation will apply.

Any advice (on topic, that is!) appreciated.

EDIT: Was looking at this or somthing similar:
 
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Waking this thread up...

I find I am in need of some lighting in a storage area w/no 110v nearby. This design has appeal!

I looked up the things on your parts list (thank you) and saw this, regarding your low voltage disconnects:

It can only work with a single battery, not work well with the battery in parallel(battery pack). Most big batteries are made of many small batteries inside, such as Mil-waukee/ De-walt battery. So we don't recommend you to use it with these batteries.

I'm green at sparky-stuff, so I have a few questions if you don't mind:

Have you had or do you anticipate any cordless-tool battery-protection issues related to the above?

Are you running 12v-rated LEDs on 20v Dewalt batteries w/o a converter/controller or some way to step down the voltage? I'll be using Milwaukee 18v, so similar situation will apply.

Any advice (on topic, that is!) appreciated.

EDIT: Was looking at this or somthing similar:

I used these on 2 6' boards to provide lights in an old cabin way back up a hollow in Virginia where we camp.
Works great with a small car battery or a lawn mower battery.

 
What are these 3 gray/red/blue things that are circled in blue? Like what do they do?
View attachment 775555
These separate each light so I can only have 1 light on at a time. If I have all the lights on at the same time the draw from the battery is more ,so the battery will go dead faster.

These lever style connectors are nice . The only tool you need is the wire stripper. You can also add more lights later to that individual switch.
 
Wire connectors.

@DangerRuss EDIT: meant to quote OP's parts list:

Lever wire connectors

GKEEMARS 10 Pcs Lever Wire Connectors, Quick Wiring Cable Connector Push-in Conductor Terminal Block (2 in 6 Out) https://a.co/d/8jmjUmY

These separate each light so I can only have 1 light on at a time. If I have all the lights on at the same time the draw from the battery is more ,so the battery will go dead faster.

These lever style connectors are nice . The only tool you need is the wire stripper. You can also add more lights later to that individual switch.

Could you eliminate them in your current design? Like aren’t they just a pass-thru in the way you are using them?

Is the reason you included them, to allow for future expansion, like if you wanted to run additional lights off of one of your 3 switches?
 
Waking this thread up...

I find I am in need of some lighting in a storage area w/no 110v nearby. This design has appeal!

I looked up the things on your parts list (thank you) and saw this, regarding your low voltage disconnects:

It can only work with a single battery, not work well with the battery in parallel(battery pack). Most big batteries are made of many small batteries inside, such as Mil-waukee/ De-walt battery. So we don't recommend you to use it with these batteries.

I'm green at sparky-stuff, so I have a few questions if you don't mind:

Have you had or do you anticipate any cordless-tool battery-protection issues related to the above?

Are you running 12v-rated LEDs on 20v Dewalt batteries w/o a converter/controller or some way to step down the voltage? I'll be using Milwaukee 18v, so similar situation will apply.

Any advice (on topic, that is!) appreciated.

EDIT: Was looking at this or somthing similar:
The lights have a working voltage range 12v-36v or 48v.
The voltage regulator would just burn up the extra voltage in the heat sink instead of producing more light.

The low voltage shutdown module will keep you from making your battery unrecoverable when it gets to the too low voltage. Just in case your not paying attention to the voltage.

The led voltage display will also drain the battery too low. That's why you should be able to turn off the battery from the whole system separately.

The way I'm using my system, it's better to use my tool batteries.

The car battery will give you a much longer run time.

I didn't need that. I also have about 20 batteries for my tools.
 
Could you eliminate them in your current design? Like aren’t they just a pass-thru in the way you are using them?

Is the reason you included them, to allow for future expansion, like if you wanted to run additional lights off of one of your 3 switches?
Yes you can do this without the separate switches/circuits . Totally depends on your application.

I may add lights on the rear of the trailer for loading and unloading.
 
Yes you can do this without the separate switches/circuits . Totally depends on your application.

I may add lights on the rear of the trailer for loading and unloading.
But what I mean is, couldn’t you keep the switches, but remove the lever junction blocks? If you didn’t want to allow for future expansion, Isn’t each junction block really just giving you a way to splice in common ground for all your circuits? so instead you could run a single junction block just for the common ground, or tap the ground 3 times off the main ground with no junction block?
 
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