My DIY enclosed trailer interior lighting

DangerRuss said:
But what I mean is, couldn’t you keep the switches, but remove the lever junction blocks? If you didn’t want to allow for future expansion, Isn’t each junction block really just giving you a way to splice in common ground for all your circuits? so instead you could run a single junction block just for the common ground, or tap the ground 3 times off the main ground with no junction block?
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Yes you can do it that way too.
 
ES44AC said:
The lights have a working voltage range 12v-36v or 48v.
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How did you determine this before you bought the lights? I browsed the specs in Amazon, but couldn’t find this. But it is early and I might be missing it. :)
Sorry for all the questions! And thanks for sharing!
 
DangerRuss said:
How did you determine this before you bought the lights? I browsed the specs in Amazon, but couldn’t find this. But it is early and I might be missing it. :)
Sorry for all the questions! And thanks for sharing!
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To be honest, I just know that LED voltage range is variable.
These state the voltage range. MERTTURM 12V LED Interior Light Bar, 120 LED Strip Lights 1500LM 8W DC12-85 Volt for RV Interior, Cargo Trailer Lights with Switch for Enclosed Trailer Boat Car Van Truck Camper Lorry Motorhome https://a.co/d/8qXh3sr
 
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I couldn't find a kill voltage for Milwaukee. Here is a work battery that is low. It could probably go to 15v low side.
Dewalt 20v 8ah has a high voltage of 23v ,never really tested the Milwaukee M18 at full charge. The higher the Amp hour the battery , the higher the top end voltage will be.
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ES44AC said:
I couldn't find a kill voltage for Milwaukee. Here is a work battery that is low. It could probably go to 15v low side.
Dewalt 20v 8ah has a high voltage of 23v ,never really tested the Milwaukee M18 at full charge. The higher the Amp hour the battery , the higher the top end voltage will be.
View attachment 775603
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The tools have a internal low voltage shutdown to protect the battery. That's why I added the low shutdown. Li-ion batteries can't handle voltage that it too low. The will get hot and cause a fire 🔥.
 
ES44AC said:
I couldn't find a kill voltage for Milwaukee
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They actually covered that in the video. They tested a MW battery that was flashing (low voltage/needs charging) and it was 16.3v. Full charge showed 20.3v.

That's how they deteremined what to set their own low voltage regulator to; at 16.3v, the lvr shuts the system down to protect the battery. There is also a restart voltage that is slightly higher (16.5v in these guys' system); this means the system will stay off if another low battery is installed, i.e. the replacement battery has to have a minimumn charge of 16.5v in order to power up the system.

I am slightly less green at sparky stuff, thanks to the OP and YouTube.
 
So how long of a run time will you get from a single battery.

I’m thinking this would be the perfect setup for my Robin Sage cabin if I can get, say, 3 hours of light off a single battery.

We’re out for 3 days but we are only in the cabin to sleep and to get things we need from time to time.
 
Chdamn said:
So how long of a run time will you get from a single battery.

I’m thinking this would be the perfect setup for my Robin Sage cabin if I can get, say, 3 hours of light off a single battery.

We’re out for 3 days but we are only in the cabin to sleep and to get things we need from time to time.
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I've really only used mine for about a hour so far . At this point I can't give you a truthful number about longer usage.
 
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