My Journey with an M37

Working on the electrical.

Installed:
Battery Box
Batteries
New Fuse Boxes for 12v and 24v
Main Switch
2 Bank Charger

Need to make a 25" NEG cable for battery to MAIN. Then I can remove to vintage blade switch. Later will be new cables to starter and ground and the +/- to the fuse trays.

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Lining up the next upgrade. The 24v pump was delivered, waiting on the hose, brass fittings, clamps, and shutoff valve.

Already have a marine water separator/filter that will fit inside the frame. I need to measure for an aluminum plate to mount everything to.

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Got up and out to get up to the Newton Registry for 8:30. In the parking lot, called as instructed...
Summer hours: Tues, Wed, Thurs 8-10
Yeah, a little bit frustrating as I just called to verify the hours last week (M, T, W, 8-10).

It was a nice 52 mile (round trip) drive. Got the squirrels motivated to go 50mph. Comfort zone is 35-45mph.

Try again Wednesday.
 
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rdinatal said:
Try again Wednesday.
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All good plans and all that. Never made it till today. Another 26mi drive but this time I felt comfortable maintaining 45mph. Inspection was limited to the VIN, if it was the same as on the paperwork and readable. The Officer said he would check history and it would take a few weeks to get the title.

I asked about safety inspections. He said it's exempt on inspections but the brakes should be working. 🤦
Just need to register every year.

Next: The T-Case rear output shaft seal is leaking more than I want. Picked up a seal and Redi-Sleve to use as a new surface on the shaft flange. Just need a few hours when the heat is below 85 to do it.
 
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Did you say you had an lmtv at one point?

I’ve always wanted one of those suckers. Sling some high speed gears in it and tube it and rock on.
 
tarheelguy said:
Did you say you had an lmtv at one point?

I’ve always wanted one of those suckers. Sling some high speed gears in it and tube it and rock on.
Click to expand...
No, just considered one. The size was a detractor since I'm limited to where it is (can be) parked.
 
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The PB and PS kits are in. Today went and drive around a bit then backed into the space in such a way to give room to work on the left front of the truck.
Started to remove the inner fender and other shields for access. The brake pedal needs to be removed for modification. Pictures are for my reference at assembly time.
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It got to 100 degrees in there at 11:30 so I called it quits for today.
I need to get up early tomorrow to get a couple more hours in before work. I will say it's real nice to have bolts that aren't rusted and caked with dirt/oil.
 
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Almost done with the PB upgrade.
- Booster/master cylinder mounted
- Modified brake pedal mounted
- Remote reservoir mounted
- Brakes flushed
- Brake switch mounted and wired
- Reserve vacuum canister mounted
- Vacuum and brake lines plumbed
To do:
Clamp all vacuum hoses
Final bleed
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Some work on the future fuel pump and filter. Mounted up inside the frame underneath the bed.
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Still need to wire and run the fuel lines. That's one of the final mods, no rush.

Switched to the output shaft seal since that's on the "Must Do" list. Took the rear driveshaft off. The cotter pin was a bear only because of the angle. The nut was also tough to crack but there's plenty of room to move around under there and get some leverage on the breaker bar.

Found that I left the 2 jaw gear puller at home. 🤨 @#$%&*!!!

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Got the flange off but the seal is proving to be a PITA. Even had Shane (@LeeMajors) take a look. It's moving but not popping out.
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Picked up yet another tool: Seal Puller
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This is my goto for hard to reach/remove seals
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The only piece I've used in it is the part that a screw fits through to bite into the seal. A few taps with the slide hammer and it comes out.
 
heavydoc said:
This is my goto for hard to reach/remove seals
View attachment 675022

The only piece I've used in it is the part that a screw fits through to bite into the seal. A few taps with the slide hammer and it comes out.
Click to expand...
I'm sure that's worth the cost for the amount times you replace seals. Looks like it works great.
 
rdinatal said:
I'm sure that's worth the cost for the amount times you replace seals. Looks like it works great.
Click to expand...
I have a similar MAC tools puller set I bought at a pawn shop years ago that is great. Harbor freight has a similar set pretty cheap.
 
I need to do that to both diffs on the M38A1.
 
@Inglis
Found some great crush washers for the differential drain plugs. Perfect fit and affordable too:
M22 Flat Washer Copper Sealing Ring, 22mm ID 28mm OD 1.5mm Thickness Metric Sealing Gasket, 20 Pieces https://a.co/d/0v337Qz

Started the engine after sitting for a month. Little choke, zero smoke/smell.
 
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Decided to let the professional install the power steering. My ability on swapping the steering gear/pump is fine. The cutting and fitting the steering column is a bit beyond my comfort zone. There is a lot of repetitive measure and cut. That and my regular work has left little time to wrench.

Loaded up for transport to Mseriesrebuild.

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Shane's trailer makes it look small. It's not.
 
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Got it back from MSeriesRebuild. The PS was the initial request. While there they chased a few gremlins that I discussed with Charles (owner). The original owner/rebuild installed a few items that weren't in time with the crank: oil pump and distributor, governor. They fixed/adjusted those and adjusted the valves. Now they had vacuum for the brakes but it was low. Found that final leak... No one plugged the vacuum wiper line! It's like a new truck!!!
Not being familiar with how they should run I thought it was just underpowered.

So, on with the other resto-mods.

Next is the electric fuel pump, line, sending unit, and gauge replacement. Since there is a big filter/separator in place the internal tank pickup/filter is due for inspection and modification (deleting the in tank filter and lengthening the pickup tube).

Oh, along with assembly issues I had noticed the tailgate never hung down vertical when not using the chains. There was a center hinge that was binding. And guess what...
Looks like the pintle hook was mounted incorrectly.
From my research the mounting plate should be inside the frame cross member. The way it is the hook sticks out about 1" more and hits the tailgate.
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That's the color scheme I want.

@g19 are those your pictures? Can you take some details of the seats (how they're mounted)???
(always looking to steal ideas...)
 
rdinatal said:
That's the color scheme I want.

@g19 are those your pictures? Can you take some details of the seats (how they're mounted)???
(always looking to steal ideas...)
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These are not my pictures. I saw your post and knew they were working in this so I asked them to send me some pictures. The next time I go there, I will take seat pictures for you. You can also call them and ask for the mechanic. He enjoyed working on this. It was a military loaner to a local FD and they turned it back in. It was red and barely running but was garage kept. It runs great now.
 
Started cutting into the original fuel line.

Inspected the sending unit. Found it was open, no change in ohms when moving the float. Replaced, new gasket along with a custom jumper for the different connectors (F to F)

Plan was to replace the pickup filter with a extension to the tank bottom. Since the new primary filter is a removable can the object is to remove any trash from the inside of the tank. Well, there was no filter. The pickup tube ended 1" above the tank bottom. Added a length of 3/8" fuel hose, double clamps, new gasket. Tank is done, on to the line.
The inside of the tank looks good.

Found that the flared fitting on the pickup was not removable. Some type of solder? So, plan B. Removed the 4ft length of alloy metal line from the tank to a junction. Cut about 3" off the end with the best flare/nut (yeah, another new tool). Attached the new 5/16" line, double clamped, attached to the pickup.
Enough for T-Day eve wrenching.

Next:
- Use some plastic electrical loom as abrasion shield on the fuel line runs.
- Plumb into the filter/pump assembly.
- Run the pump output to the secondary filter up at the carb.
- Wire the pump with a oil pressure relay (no oil pressure = no power to pump).

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rdinatal said:
Wire the pump with a oil pressure relay (no oil pressure = no power to pump).
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While researching this I discovered that running a feed wire off the switched side of the starter won't work. There is no "normal" relay, just a switch built on the side of the starter.

So, Plan B again...

Since the carb is a float bowl (vs. injection) a simple momentary switch will be used to prime the system.
 
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Anyone have a 3D printer that would attempt to reproduce these? I can remove one for measurements. It's serviceable but has corrosion holes.

A long term replacement idea...

Escutcheon for interior door handles
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Nice!
I’m totally unfamiliar with these vehicles. I inherited a collection of military vehicles and containers full of parts. As I dig around I’m sure I can finds parts or manuals, if I know what I’m looking for. He had a bunch of military vehicles. I don’t know what model this one is he started restoring. I kept and am looking forward to driving this around.
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rdinatal said:
Anyone have a 3D printer that would attempt to reproduce these? I can remove one for measurements. It's serviceable but has corrosion holes.

A long term replacement idea...

Escutcheon for interior door handles
View attachment 707046
Click to expand...
What kind of material are the original ones made of?
 
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