Need to clean your stainless guns?

This cloth is absolutely manic...
 
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Jeppo said:
Buy this...now.

Birchwood Casey 31002 Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth, 6-Inch x 9-Inch
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU67BEM/
Click to expand...
Does it smell like coconut? Because I have some others that are very thick cloth like material impregnated with some sort of coconut juju and they are freaking magic. ESPECIALLY for getting burn rings off the front of stainless cylinders on wheelguns
 
These work real well on SS revolvers getting carbon rings and such off the wheel. Takes some elbow grease but will pretty much look like new when done.
Do not! use them on nickle or chrome. I'd avoid Titanium too, but don't know about brass. Maybe.
fieldgrade said:
Does it smell like coconut?
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No, these have more of a traditional gun cleaner smell.
 
Not sure about the coconut smell. What I am sure about is that, knowing how they work, I’d pay $25 for one.
 
fieldgrade said:
Does it smell like coconut? Because I have some others that are very thick cloth like material impregnated with some sort of coconut juju and they are freaking magic. ESPECIALLY for getting burn rings off the front of stainless cylinders on wheelguns
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What kind do you have? I like coconut. It’s great on cake, or the oil in coffee, used as lube, several other things I’m sure
 
Burt Gummer said:
What kind do you have? I like coconut. It’s great on cake, or the oil in coffee, used as lube, several other things I’m sure
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Don’t laugh at the label. These are new. Zoidmeister on 1911addicts.com hawks these. I cleaned off bad burn rings from my son’s GP 100 in less than ten minutes. No harsh chemicals at all. I’m told cold blue doesn’t like it so I don’t use them on any blued guns.

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They are awesome!! I used them to removee the carbon / lead off revolver cylinders and frames. I thought they had quit making them..... Thanks!!
 
[mention]Jeppo [/mention] the one you had me buy months ago is insane and I love it.....


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Have used for years cleaning the bore. Scrub all you want with anything you got, then run a patch or two of the lead cloth throught...........you won't believe how much black it pulls out.
 
I've used them for years when I had stainless guns. Nothing like them.
 
I ordered one.... I wonder how well they work on a DLC coated stainless.

If nothing else I have a couple stainless pistols that see some rather hard carry that need some love every now and then.
 
Having trouble ordering from my current location, so someone remind me to grab two when I get home. I don’t have a lot of stainless firearms, but one for a gift and one to use would be nice.


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@Jeppo What was that wax you had for blued guns when we met Raymond in Thomasville? Was it Renaissance wax?
 
Jeppo said:
@fieldgrade
How muchie?
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I think I bought five individually package rags, that are very much reusable, although they will be black and gross after using awhile. I looked and my paypal charge was like $22 or something.
 
Gunny70 said:
Ok thanks. Thought so but couldn't remember.
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It’s “safe and effective” for everything (blued, nickel, stainless). Try it on old walnut revolver grips (do the inside and edges too).
 
Jeppo said:
It’s “safe and effective” for everything (blued, nickel, stainless). Try it on old walnut revolver grips (do the inside and edges too).
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I want to make sure there’s no confusion. My comment referred to Renaissance Wax.
 
How does this wipe rag compare to Mothers Mag Polish?
I've use Mothers on SS guns and they finish up as almost a polished SS sort of clean.
You do need a lot of clean rags.
 
ronn47 said:
How does this wipe rag compare to Mothers Mag Polish?
I've use Mothers on SS guns and they finish up as almost a polished SS sort of clean.
You do need a lot of clean rags.
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I can’t speak to the ones in the OP, but the coconut smelling rags I posted above, I cut off a two inch square and cleaned off bad burn rings off a stainless 357 in minutes. I mean less than 10 minutes.

I had worked on them for maybe an hour the week before with Hoppes Bore Cleaner.
 
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There’s something about the cloth (impregnated with a solvent????) that makes short work of cleaning stainless. Where polishing can be a lot of work, a bit of gentle rubbing with the cloth is enough.
 
fieldgrade said:
I can’t speak to the ones in the OP, but the coconut smelling rags I posted above, I cut off a two inch square and cleaned off bad burn rings off a stainless 357 in minutes. I mean less than 10 minutes.

I had worked on them for maybe an hour the week before with Hoppes Bore Cleaner.
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Jeppo said:
There’s something about the cloth (impregnated with a solvent????) that makes short work of cleaning stainless. Where polishing can be a lot of work, a bit of gentle rubbing with the cloth is enough.
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I had a 686 I did years ago with Mothers.
Just a few mins wiping and the gun was clean, cylinder ring and all.
I then took a old T-shirt and rubbed all the Mothers off, took a while to get it to where I wanted it.
Looked like a new dime when I was finished.
 
I’ve been using the Birchwood Casey type for 12 years. They are excellent and last forever if you cut off small chunks. If you overdo it, they will start to polish high spots and edges on stainless though which I try to avoid. But maybe others are into that 😃.
 
Orders and received 2 today. My guns are not yet clean. Therefore, they are obviously defective.
 
Jeppo said:
There’s something about the cloth (impregnated with a solvent????) that makes short work of cleaning stainless. Where polishing can be a lot of work, a bit of gentle rubbing with the cloth is enough.
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Thanks again Jeff, got a couple and have done 5 stainless S&W 's in about 45min. Just the cylinder fronts. Super easy. Ive never seen these before. Jeppo da man!
 
Jeppo said:
Buy this...now.

Birchwood Casey 31002 Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth, 6-Inch x 9-Inch
by Amazon.com
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AU67BEM/
Click to expand...
Thank you. This thread is a lesson in how to clean a stainless revolver. Now would be an excellent time to start a new thread on how to clean a blue revolver and then a nickel one. Everyone can benefit from a little extra knowledge.
 
I've found that with a ss revolver if you take the cylinder out and stand it on end just spray it with Hoppes Black and let it sit for about 5 minutes as well as take the frame and spray around the forcing cone too. After a little sit time, take a brass or even a stainless brush and you can get it like new in about 30 seconds. If it is extra bad which mine wind up being because I don't clean my stainless guns very often, you can take the brush and work the Hoppes in a little before you let it sit. I can usually clean a very dirty stainless revolver as good as it can be in about 10 minutes. I've used the cleaning cloths and they do work well, but for me the Hoppes Black and brush is much faster and less elbow grease. When you do get it clean, a little coat of Ren Wax that @Jeppo was talking about put on the cylinder face will make it easier the next time. Nickel I do the same way except I only use a brass brush on nickel. The nickel finish is tougher than you think, but one warning, Do Not Use the old Hoppes No 9 on Nickel. It has ammonia and is bad for nickel. On blue guns I do the same except use a nylon brush. That does take a lot longer.
 
Etruett said:
Do Not Use the old Hoppes No 9 on Nickel. It has ammonia and is bad for nickel.
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Technically it’s fine for nickel, it’s the layer of copper under the nickel that gets attacked. A good thing to consider when cleaning a nickeled gun with any chemical that attacks copper.
 
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