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Pogue

Pogue

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I’ve been without a project car for a few years now and found myself dumping $$ into my daily drivers to the point were it didn’t make sense to daily them....so back to the old strategy: Leave the daily alone and build race cars.

Surprised myself a little with this one, but picked up a Mustang today. V6/auto car 😂 but that doesn’t matter. It’ll be a stripped bare rolling chassis this time tmw in preparation for cage work.

828526D0-FB25-4B3A-A962-627AA1F5E527.jpeg1602831F-EE95-4FB7-9245-65C5F4A4B820.jpeg


The wife was even nice enough to help a bit. Interiors already mostly out and I haven’t even moved the trailer yet.

014E382F-CFD7-45F8-9E28-B223B1A1AB03.jpeg

Drivetrain I’m still undecided on. I want unique, so it’s probably not going to be a v8. Toying with the idea of a 20b rotary, a 2jz (ehhh, not as unique as I’d like) I love the idea of a Australian Ford Barra motor, but I really don’t even want the powertrain to be the same brand as the car.
Plenty of time to decide.
 
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Ive never seen a 20b mustang. 2jz would be fun as well.

Personally if i were to do one the 20b sounds amazing...... that rotary sound in a non rotary car.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
 
Is it blasphemy to put a LS1 in it :)
 
Gaston said:
Rotary... when you want all of the maintenance without any of the torque.
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With emissions removed they’re the simplest of motors. 13 moving parts on a 13b. But yes lacking torque

amnesia said:
Is it blasphemy to put a LS1 in it :)
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I went down that road before, ironically ls1 swapping my twin turbo rotary FD rx7
ronn47 said:
Well he could do a 440 Wedge.
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That’s a little old school for me. If I’m not mistaken it’s a lm insanely wide engine as well. Doubt it would fit between the strut towers.
 
Pogue said:
With emissions removed they’re the simplest of motors. 13 moving parts on a 13b. But yes lacking torque


I went down that road before, ironically ls1 swapping my twin turbo rotary FD rx7


That’s a little old school for me. If I’m not mistaken it’s a lm insanely wide engine as well. Doubt it would fit between the strut towers.
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That's what they make straight axles for, think old school gasser.
Well, you wanted different.
 
Pogue said:
I’ve been without a project car for a few years now and found myself dumping $$ into my daily drivers to the point were it didn’t make sense to daily them....so back to the old strategy: Leave the daily alone and build race cars.

Surprised myself a little with this one, but picked up a Mustang today. V6/auto car 😂 but that doesn’t matter. It’ll be a stripped bare rolling chassis this time tmw in preparation for cage work.

View attachment 314154View attachment 314155


The wife was even nice enough to help a bit. Interiors already mostly out and I haven’t even moved the trailer yet.

View attachment 314156

Drivetrain I’m still undecided on. I want unique, so it’s probably not going to be a v8. Toying with the idea of a 20b rotary, a 2jz (ehhh, not as unique as I’d like) I love the idea of a Australian Ford Barra motor, but I really don’t even want the powertrain to be the same brand as the car.
Plenty of time to decide.
Click to expand...
DAMN!! Thats sweet!! Car isn't too bad either. Lol
What is the end goal? Straight line or twisty?
 
Very cool

whatever you decide + turbo
 
Piddled some more this afternoon. Finished gutting it, stripped the dash bar out of the dash and reinstalled after the hvac box was out. It’s just there to temporarily hold the factory steering column. Even had a sec to wash it before it got dark.

figured I share progress pics as I’m not on any automotive forums anymore.


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Quick update. Had Gibbons Racecars in Gastonia bend up a 8.5 cert chromoly cage with a 25.5 floor bar (in case things get that rowdy enough to upgrade to a full 25.5 cert cage in the future (7.5 seconds or slower — 1/4 mile) Still lots to do before it gets tig’d together. All the sound deadening and seam sealer needs to be removed and subframe connectors fabricated to tie into the cages floor plates.

pics will follow as soon as there’s progress made.
 
barlowlc said:
do away with those....tube chassis front end w/ rack and pinion, coil overs, and motor plate = plenty of room

gotta 69 model 429 if you go old school
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it’s getting a tubular front end, but the strut towers are staying. New cage ties into those. My impatience is pushing me to just go LS/turbo. Unique is still super appealing, but unique and fast = expensive and that would dramatically slow down the build.
 
well, i learned in math class ls+turbo=fast so I think your answer is correct sir..lol...I'm sure it will still have some unique touches to it that sets it apart! Just to be honest though....either way sounds expensive to me 🤑..... but I know what you mean, and the viewers at home definitely don't want the progress slowed down..lol
 
Pogue said:
it’s getting a tubular front end, but the strut towers are staying. New cage ties into those. My impatience is pushing me to just go LS/turbo. Unique is still super appealing, but unique and fast = expensive and that would dramatically slow down the build.
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I know where there is a cab & chassis 6.0 powerstroke sitting that seems to run pretty good. Haven't put the scanner on it to check vitals buuuuuuuut it should be available pretty soon and pretty cheap If it was just going to be stripped down... 6.0, compounds, and big sticks in that little thing would be interesting. 🤣
 
Damn if it was a GT and/or had black interior I'd be wanting to buy some of those parts from you just for spares.
 
There is that new "big block" Ford engine, the 7.3 can be had for $7k I think (new).

430hp I think? Probably more torque than that.
 
All good suggestions. I’m shooting for 1500ish hp on e90 and there’s really no cheaper way to do it than ls-turbo. It’ll end up being just another racecar at the track, but it’ll be fun!

Picked up the cage earlier today:
8D9EC6E6-FC2B-455F-9E81-62EC08677E3E.jpeg
 
Pogue said:
Quick update. Had Gibbons Racecars in Gastonia bend up a 8.5 cert chromoly cage with a 25.5 floor bar (in case things get that rowdy enough to upgrade to a full 25.5 cert cage in the future (7.5 seconds or slower — 1/4 mile) Still lots to do before it gets tig’d together. All the sound deadening and seam sealer needs to be removed and subframe connectors fabricated to tie into the cages floor plates.

pics will follow as soon as there’s progress made.
Click to expand...


Here's a pic of John Gibbons from a few years back. He's the guy in the hat. Big guy next to him was his dad, Johnny.

.
img110.jpg
 
Pogue said:
All good suggestions. I’m shooting for 1500ish hp on e90 and there’s really no cheaper way to do it than ls-turbo. It’ll end up being just another racecar at the track, but it’ll be fun!

Picked up the cage earlier today:
View attachment 319156
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Have you narrowed down which LS you'll be going with? I know Texas speed has some great LS engine parts. I'm going to assume you'll be doing something with the cam/ heads..
 
Scrubber3 said:
Have you narrowed down which LS you'll be going with? I know Texas speed has some great LS engine parts. I'm going to assume you'll be doing something with the cam/ heads..
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I haven’t to be honest, but most likely a build based off a l96 block. TS has a 427 that people have had great success with but laying out $22-$24k for a “branded” motor is out of my league.
 
hp468 said:
I’ll bite. What’s the process here? Freeze it and chip it out rather than melt and scrape?
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Pretty much. You crush the ice into a powder form and mix it with the alcohol and pour/spread it over a little panel of sound deadening. The instant freeze is **usually** enough to separate the tar from the metal, allowing you to pop up large chunks (or even whole panels) at one time.

I’ve heard of rare instances where it had little to no effect on the tar’s adhesion to the body panels, and lucky me, it happened on this car.

Typically the effect is immediate, but even after giving plenty of time and even trying different ice/alcohol ratios, the tar remained unfazed by the freezing onslaught. I switched to the heat gun and scraper and managed only two panels before calling it a night. Will have to go back with mineral spirits to clean up the residue.

It’s a frustrating setback that I can’t wait to be done with.
 
On a more positive note, i did order a Woodward Fab “Super Bead Roller” to fancy/stiffen up some interior panels I have to make. Fuel cell and battery will be in the trunk, so I have to fabricate a firewall/bulkhead to completely seal off the trunk from the cabin. Currently on the hunt for a 48” sheet metal brake/shear to help out with that.

92F2E072-F232-4E62-84FC-CA6077FF7D38.png
 
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Pogue said:
Pretty much. You crush the ice into a powder form and mix it with the alcohol and pour/spread it over a little panel of sound deadening. The instant freeze is **usually** enough to separate the tar from the metal, allowing you to pop up large chunks (or even whole panels) at one time.

I’ve heard of rare instances where it had little to no effect on the tar’s adhesion to the body panels, and lucky me, it happened on this car.

Typically the effect is immediate, but even after giving plenty of time and even trying different ice/alcohol ratios, the tar remained unfazed by the freezing onslaught. I switched to the heat gun and scraper and managed only two panels before calling it a night. Will have to go back with mineral spirits to clean up the residue.

It’s a frustrating setback that I can’t wait to be done with.
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Like you, dry ice didn't work when I built my 1980 RX7 for SCCA racing. Lots of hours with the scraper and torch, followed by the wire wheel and then adhesive remover.

I don't wish that task of my enemies.

I hoist a drink in your honor.
 
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