Night Vision Experts - Helmet Mount Wisdom Needed (PVS14/BNVD)

steelciocc

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When I retired, PVS-7s were in common use and PVS-14 just coming into service (wore PVS-5s for the first time in Grenada, 1983) So, I have zero practical experience with 14s. Just ordered a 14 and am slowly figuring out how to set these things up and how cRaZy expensive the NV world is.

Looking for wisdom on bump helmet mounting options without breaking the bank. Lots of options and a plethora of info on-line but no real consensus on a “best” solution. I don’t have any demanding specs, just wobble free, durable/reliable, etc. Not looking to impress anyone with my set up but definitely want to spend my money on milspec ruggedness and performance. I have sort of ruled out first generation Rino type mounts based on the cons of that era of design. Willing to spend what it takes for a modernish set of features without having to sell a kidney.

The two I’m somewhat considering after a couple days of browsing are:

476BFB29-5365-4765-AF3D-202F0C80CF6B.jpeg
Wilcox G-11 ($300ish), and

C43D4951-751D-47D9-A53C-9B0149F95695.jpeg
Norotos AKA2 ($250ish)

Thoughts? The features of the high(er) end (G-24, INVG) are sweet but I can’t lay out $500 for a mount.

I plan to use the stock J arm/horn mount.

Any direct experience, suggestions or wisdom appreciated.
 
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I have a Norotos. It was a mil surplus. works great, just had to wash the sand out of it.
 
I got mine at East Coast Surplus & Tactical in Asheboro. I looked online but surplus is hard to come by. I have the rhino type.

 
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I just went through this selection dilemma. I settled on a Wilcox L4 G24 mount and a Wilcox PVS-14 transfer arm. My rationale was as follows:
  • The G24 has breakaway functionality that the G11 lacks. While costing more, this may be the difference between breaking my neck or not, as the NVG will be used in heavy brush, while climbing, etc.
  • The G24's button engagement moves the bump helmet around on my head less than the force-to-overcome of the G11. This allows me to wear the bump helmet slightly less tightly, which I find aids in comfort.
  • The G24 positions the NVG closer to the helmet when the NVG is in the stowed position than the G11 does -- making the helmet plus NVG more compact with the G24 when the NVG is stowed using the G24.
  • Switching eyes with the G24 and Wilcox transfer arm is as quick as pushing a button and moving the NVG to the new eye (assuming one has tweaked, tuned, and refined positioning of the PVS-14 at the primary eye to support rapid switches to the secondary); with the G11 and standard J-arm a tension knob must be loosened and tightened before such a switch (assuming the same tweakage/tuning/refinement).
  • The lockup on the dovetail interface of the Wilcox transfer arm into the G24 is super stable and instantaneous, while the standard J-arm horn's lockup in the G11 is only as solid as the G24's dovetail mount IF additional steps are taken to make it so using the G11's mechanical tension adjustment capability which relies on use of a (supplied) allen key to push a worm gear lever forward under the standard J-Arm’s horn, thereby forcing the J-Arm upwards into a cradle to reduce or eliminate any wobble that simply isn't present with the dovetail mount of the G24 and the Wilcox transfer arm.

Ultimately, I found the G24 and Wilcox transfer arm combination to be feature-rich enough to justify spending $670 (with tax and shipping) on the pair. The breakaway functionality and the life-saving potential (or potential to avoid being crippled), alone, was worth the added cost to me for the G24 -- never mind the rest of the benefits. ($300ish extra dollars to help avoid being paralyzed or dying? Sign me up! The military might not pay it for our boys/men in the field, which irritates me, but I'll darn sure pay it for myself.) This also means if I ever want to run duals, I've already got the investment in a dovetail mount with which to do it -- and it's just a matter of obtaining a bridge and a second PVS-14. (I can't see that in my future because that's a lot of unnecessary weight, but the option is there should I want it.)

That was my thinking ... and why I bought what I bought. Your needs, thinking, and budget/wallet may be different, of course, but I figured I'd share since you asked.
 
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Thanks @surrealone, solid logic there! I’m coming around to the dovetail thing. I have an old buddy that is sending me a Dual Dovetail Adapter that is supposed to be an easy replacement for the J Arm.

So, my choices have definitely shifted to a dovetail mount system. G24 or INVG are really the “best” options, I just have to convince myself to spend the $$.

You have made a compelling case. Thanks!

ETA - How ‘bout a picture of your setup for posterity?
 
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ETA - How ‘bout a picture of your setup for posterity?
I'd love to give you one, but unfortunately I can't. Why? Because my setup is still being assembled - which is why I just went through the same agony you are.

My Wilcox G24 mount and Wilcox transfer arm are in hand, as is my bump helmet from Hard Head Veterans, but the helmet's shroud has a bit of extra polymer inside the top of the shroud where the top-most tab of the G24 is inserted -- preventing proper seating. I'm perfectly willing to trim this to fix it, but I've taken this up with HHV to see how they want to handle it, as they might want to replace the entire shroud and have me send back the problematic one so they can take a look and take it up with the entity they use for production/manufacturing.

My tube won't be ordered until I get my tax refund. :)

Surreal

P.S. I am still glad I went the HHV route, despite this hiccup. They stand behind their products AND are veteran-owned/operated, which is important to me. The rails on the helmet are M-Lok ... as opposed to Team Wendy's proprietary BS, too -- meaning I don't have to continually buy into proprietary mounting stuff or ARC rail mounts (which seems to be what the industry is moving away from).
 
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Ah, gotcha. I ordered a HHV Bump but then found an Ops Core Bump locally so I cancelled my HHV order (as I remember there was a longish lead time on the HHV). My 14 was ordered last week but there’s a significant lead time on it too so I’ve just decided to forget about it and let it surprise me when it shows up.

Please post up a pic when you’re complete along with a review of the HHV helmet after some use. Once I get my setup figured out I’ll do the same along with whatever rationale I use to make my determination.

Appreciate you sharing your experience.
 
I went with the G22 Wilcox because I wear glasses. One of the nice things about the Wilcox mounts in general is that they can move away from your eye. Doesn't seem like you have the same option with the Norotos.

Now, if you want a Wilcox J-arm I've got one brand new in the packaging. It has never been taken out. The reason is because I went with the Norotos dovetail mount. I found it to work better for me personally. Especially when it comes to swapping from one eye to the other. It's really stable too.

Since I've not tried the Wilcox J-arm, I can't say if it is better or worse from a stability standpoint. The Norotos worked so well and enabled swapping eyes...so I never bothered with the Wilcox J-arm.

This is the Norotos adapter I got to go with my Wilcox G22 mount:

I'm far from a nightvision expert though. Thus far I've just got the one PVS-14. The duals are on order.
 
I do not operate and I do not take myself seriously, what's the uber cheap option for a mount (helmet, used bra straps, zip ties...) ?
 
I do not operate and I do not take myself seriously, what's the uber cheap option for a mount (helmet, used bra straps, zip ties...) ?
Cheapest way to get there is a bump helmet off Amazon for about $75. Then a Norotos mount for $50. Then a cheap J-arm for another $35.

It might wobble like hell until you fix it up with rubber bands and paracord.
 
@steelciocc thanks for posting, I need a setuo for mine. The skull crusher isn't fun.

Where would you shop for one?
I would check out Venture Surplus. They seem to have reasonable prices and you can be reasonably sure it isn't a stolen item.
 
Also, you can get a cheap bump helmet and if it'll accommodate the padding inserts from Ops Core or Team Wendy (even though I hate TW for pandering to Clinton...they are the most comfortable) you are in business. Those padding inserts make a huge difference in comfort. TW's cloud line system is what I'm using. I'm also using their retention system.
 
One other thing. There's a fellow who makes blue and white filters for the PVS-14s that are green phosphor. The blue makes it look like a white phosphor tube. It's rather amazing. But the white one is just incredible. There's very little light lost and the contrast is really something.
Here is a pic of the white filter on a green phosphor tube. They are about $20 shipped.

7B42408B-EE06-40FE-99B6-3846BA8E6FC6.png
 
Ah, gotcha. I ordered a HHV Bump but then found an Ops Core Bump locally so I cancelled my HHV order (as I remember there was a longish lead time on the HHV). My 14 was ordered last week but there’s a significant lead time on it too so I’ve just decided to forget about it and let it surprise me when it shows up.

Please post up a pic when you’re complete along with a review of the HHV helmet after some use. Once I get my setup figured out I’ll do the same along with whatever rationale I use to make my determination.

Appreciate you sharing your experience.
My HHV bump took about 3 weeks. Not bad -- and worth the wait IMHO considering the HHV was the lightest bump helmet I could find. On a sad note, I expect my tube's lead time to run close to 22 weeks. :(



I do not operate and I do not take myself seriously, what's the uber cheap option for a mount (helmet, used bra straps, zip ties...) ?
Skull crushers ... and they're called that for a reason. Cheap ones can be had for $60ish. Expensive ones can run $200ish -- which gets you up close to bump helmet territory.

Bump helmets are cheap compared to ballistic helmets. I selected a bump helmet mostly as a matter of comfort. They're lighter than ballistic helmets AND vented (i.e. cooler) ... and provide a much better mounting platform than skull crushers, stability-wise. I don't operate either, by the way; I've simply had the luxury of getting to compare several friends' NVGs and taken input on what to avoid from individuals I know who used to operate.



One other thing. There's a fellow who makes blue and white filters for the PVS-14s that are green phosphor. The blue makes it look like a white phosphor tube. It's rather amazing. But the white one is just incredible. There's very little light lost and the contrast is really something.
Here is a pic of the white filter on a green phosphor tube. They are about $20 shipped.

View attachment 295613
Looks like white phosphor and you get the contrast of that look, but at the end of the day it's still a filmed green phosphor tube as opposed to an unfilmed white phosphor tube (assuming one bought the latter, which is what I'd hope most WP owners did if they bothered to spend more for WP). To some only the look might matter, but realistically an unfilmed white phosphor tube should allow one to see more with less ambient light than a filmed green phosphor tube as I understand it.
 
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@Studentofthegun , thanks for all the info and advice! I do have one of those Dual Dovetail Adapters coming from a friend ($145ish if buying one) so I am definitely going dovetail. The AKA2 with dovetail adapter is still leading my list primarily due to price ($250ish). Still trying to mentally get to a G24 or INVG.

@Pink_Vapor , depending on your window to purchase I’ll let you take a look at whatever I end up with. I drive up and down US1 pretty frequently and can stop and let you see one option.
 
Looks like white phosphor and you get the contrast of that look, but at the end of the day it's still a filmed green phosphor tube as opposed to an unfilmed white phosphor tube (assuming one bought the latter, which is what I'd hope most WP owners did if they bothered to spend more for WP). To some only the look might matter, but realistically an unfilmed white phosphor tube should allow one to see more with less ambient light than a filmed green phosphor tube as I understand it.
Yes, but some people already have green tubes. For those folks that like the contrast of a tube that’s black/white instead of green, it’s a nifty $20 toy.

Also, unfilmed WP is quite a bit more than other WP options. For example, last fall you could get an WP XLSH tube for about $1k less than an unfilmed WP. For unfilmed you’re talking L3 Harris of course.

Sure, WP Elbit and Photonis tubes are not quite as good as the filmless. But they are awesome tubes for the money and in my opinion are preferable to green phosphor tubes.

If the price between filmed and unfilmed were closer I could see why people would prefer them. But unfilmed from TNVC was running about $3700 and I snagged my Echo spec WP from JRH for $2750 on a Black Friday special. That’s a pretty big jump in price. It’s the price of a nice bump helmet with a Wilcox mount and J-Arm. Or a good chunk of a IR laser/illuminator.

Ive seen some unfilmed WP go for $4300 lately. Prices are just crazy right now. But I’ve seen a few green phosphor RNVGs going for about 5600. At one time you could get a set of RNVGs from JRH (XLSH White Phosphor tubes) something like 5600 or so.

I’d be sorely tempted to get the dual tubes over a single tube even if the specs were a little better.

Edited to add:

You can still get the XLSH WP binos. Which are pretty dang cool. Better than the rugged used since the articulate. $6k


TNVC is selling an unfilmed monocle for $4,020

Granted that’s 2k apart but if one could juts bite the bullet a little more...he could have duals for a couple thousand more. Worth selling a couple shooting irons for imho. Especially considering how happy the guys are that have been receiving the XLSH WP tubes lately.
 
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If I was going to recommend a white phosphor tube, it would be the one I have. There was a lot of agonizing and gnashing of teeth that went into my decision. There are some cheaper options but I didn’t want big spots in zone one (near the middle) so I opted for the Photonis Echo Spec.


Everyone has different budgets of course. I’ve since went off the deep end. The monocle was just a gateway drug and I see no end in sight.

Say a prayer for me because I need all the help I can get.
 
It's difficult to see how these move and adjust with still photos. I'm off to yootoob for more info
I’m just down the road from you if you want to check mine out.
 
While we're kind of wandering all over the place, there is a LOT of good info getting kicked around, so far ... of the sort typically tough to find in a single thread. Speaking only for myself (and as the newcomer here, I suspect), I don't mind the thread wandering if others don't!



Yes, but some people already have green tubes. For those folks that like the contrast of a tube that’s black/white instead of green, it’s a nifty $20 toy.

<snip>

if one could juts bite the bullet a little more...he could have duals for a couple thousand more. Worth selling a couple shooting irons for imho. Especially considering how happy the guys are that have been receiving the XLSH WP tubes lately.
Totally understand the use of filters for those who bought/own green phosphor and want more contrast. Budgets are what budgets are, and I respect that! In fact, I know some guys who are in that boat and might like to pick up such filters. Last I knew they were looking at amber filters of some kind. If you have a link to where the $20 WP-looking filter can be purchased, please post it and I'll readily pass it on and likely send some business in the direction of the individual making them.

As for binos, I wrestled with the mono vs. bino angle and decided I had no interest in binos -- largely based on input from a former operator who warned me about lack of depth perception with binos AND about problems transitioning to unaided vision quickly when both eyes were aided. While I don't operate, I'm willing to trust the advice of someone who used this gear as a way of life for a while ... to guide me in my decisions. (As I understand it, duals are typically reserved for drivers and pilots, and even then, some training is still very much in order to overcome the lack of depth perception unless they're outfitted with the crazy quad tube offset units that provide depth, too.)


If I was going to recommend a white phosphor tube, it would be the one I have. There was a lot of agonizing and gnashing of teeth that went into my decision. There are some cheaper options but I didn’t want big spots in zone one (near the middle) so I opted for the Photonis Echo Spec.

If memory serves, I seem to recall that the Photonis tubes use an ion barrier -- meaning they are technically neither filmed nor unfilmed. (Like film, the barrier will, however, result in less light than filmless.) I also seem to recall reading that Echo spec tubes are Gen 2 tubes -- good ones that rival many Gen 3 tubes ... but Gen 2 nonetheless, as that matters to some and may entail an upper bound. Finally, I seem to recall that the Echo spec isn't so much a spec as a grade of tube ... one that didn't make a specific cut, though I can't remember the cut it failed to make as it's been a while since I did my tube homework.

Pricing is appealing compared to TNVC's, but TNVC is rarely the cheapest on the block -- but you get what you pay for with them, I've read. I take it you feel similarly about JRHE?
 
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As for binos, I wrestled with the mono vs. bino angle and decided I had no interest in binos -- largely based on input from a former operator who warned me about lack of depth perception with binos AND about problems transitioning to unaided vision quickly when both eyes were aided. While I don't operate, I'm willing to trust the advice of someone who used this gear as a way of life for a while ... to guide me in my decisions. (As I understand it, duals are typically reserved for drivers and pilots, and even then, some training is still very much in order to overcome the lack of depth perception unless they're outfitted with the crazy quad tube offset units that provide depth, too.)

It is all fun and games until you hold up a mono tube in front of each eye. Then you'll really want binos. ;)

CAG or whatever they are called, sometimes uses the quad tubes. Those have just become obtainable by civilians or people that don't have serious connections.


There are some things that one has to be mindful of with dual tubes. One is that if you're looking through them, you might not notice you've wandered into an area that is lit up enough for someone without night vision to see you. As you can imagine, that could turn out very bad. With a monocle that is less likely.

I'm more than willing to take my changes with dual tubes.

If memory serves, I seem to recall that the Photonis tubes use an ion barrier -- meaning they are technically neither filmed nor unfilmed. (Like film, the barrier will, however, result in less light than filmless.) I also seem to recall reading that Echo spec tubes are Gen 2 tubes -- good ones that rival many Gen 3 tubes ... but Gen 2 nonetheless, as that matters to some and may entail an upper bound. Finally, I seem to recall that the Echo spec isn't so much a spec as a grade of tube ... one that didn't make a specific cut, though I can't remember the cut it failed to make as it's been a while since I did my tube homework.

Pricing is appealing compared to TNVC's, but TNVC is rarely the cheapest on the block -- but you get what you pay for with them, I've read. I take it you feel similarly about JRHE?

I would say that TNVC is the best vendor. If I could have bought from them and received the unit in less than 4 months, I would have done so and gladly paid more than I did at JRH for a lesser tube. But one in the hand beats one on order, and the price was right. It was a toe in the water for me. But I did end up getting my duals from JRH. Their customer service is pretty decent. TNVC has better quality gear for the most part. It is more expensive.

Yes, the Photonis Echo tube may technically be "gen 2". I would challenge you to look through a high spec'd L3 Harris thin filmed tube vs my Photonis and find the difference. I was able to compare mine in exactly that way and nobody was able tell. Granted, we did have a very small amount of ambient light. Where the L3 Harris thin filmed shines is in extremely low or no light conditions. But that's based upon what I've read. I did not test them side by side in complete darkness.

Everyone has to make their own decisions when it comes to budget and what they are willing to tolerate in terms of specs, spots, and bless. Echo specs, for whatever reason, didn't make the cut for the French or Belgian military (I forget which). Mine was good on all the metrics but had a really tiny spot in zone 1. Honestly it doesn't bother me at all and most people don't notice it unless I tell them.

I'm not claiming to be an expert but I've been using mine for various things like walking around in the woods, shooting my ARs in the dark, etc. I feel like I got a good value with my current monocle and have no regrets.

A lot of guys get really wrapped around the axles when it comes to having the best gear. Personally, I'd rather be competent with a monocle than a bumbling amateur with quads.

There are a lot of dudes on Facebook that like to "flex on the poors" by showing off gear that most people cannot afford or aren't allowed to own under normal circumstance even if they had the money. I'm a slow footed software salesman. My days of zip lining out of a helo aren't behind me. They NEVER happened in the first place.

However, with some practice and training (which I also intend to partake of) I'll be reasonably competent. The advantages of night vision cannot be overstated in a SHTF situation. I'm looking forward to getting my duals assuming that Elbit doesn't get shut down with COVID or the clap. In the meantime I'm grateful to have a monocle and a thermal scope.
 
I look forward to night time fun in the not-too-distant future. Spot-on regarding the advantage of night vision -- not just in a SHTF situation, but any other time you have legit use cases for it, too. (I can't tell you how many times I've had deer blow at me when walking into a sit because I snapped branches I couldn't see or crunched on leaves I didn't know were there. Being able to SEE walking into a sit will be HUGE.)

Practice with one's gear is key. I'm jealous of your thermal scope, sight unseen, just because it's nice to have options. I've seen video of what the Trijicon IR Patrol M300W is capable of -- WOW. I'd take it every day over a green or white phosphor tube, but the 8k+ price tag is debilitating ... and then there's that nasty little problem with glass that thermal tends to have, too. Still, sexy stuff, especially given that thermal defeats camoflage without trying (unless it's glass!).

The upside to a long lead time on a tube is, I suppose, it allows plenty of time to pick up illuminators, designators, and the like. :)
 
I think a feller needs thermal and night vision. Thermal is awesome for finding critters. Or even bad guys who are savvy enough to be really still at night. If they aren’t moving you might not see them. But with thermal they can’t hide very well. Supposedly there is clothing made to hide you from thermal.

But thermal sucks for seeing where you are going in the dark. I’ve just got a Hogster 35. Nothing nearly as fancy as the Halos or Reap IRs. It does what I need it to do though.

When I got into this stuff 6 months ago, there was very little information out there about it. On this forum anyway. Tons of info on Arfcom but you’ve got the wade through a lot of stuff to get to it. Finally found someone more or less local that had a PVS-14 and a thermal scope that was nice enough to let me look through them.

TNVC is having an event down in SC where you can check out a lot of different kind of gear. I’m tempted to try it out so I could see how much difference there is between my current thermal scope and the top of the line. See if it is worth making a push to save up and make the move. Got other stuff I would like to purchase so have to prioritize.
 
Watch this, then let's talk about the above comment:

My thermal scope is great for hunting or scanning. But it would suck tryin to use it as a monocle to run around in the dark. As I said before, I just have a Hogster 35. It is a far cry from a Trijicon.

That being said, I thought there was a very good reason why everyone uses night vision tubes for moving around in the woods. You will see an e-coti but that is simply attaching a thermal monocle to a night vision monocle or dual tube setup.

Are you saying that you could use a thermal scope as a better option for running around in the woods?

I would love to try out your thermal in that capacity. Which model thermal do you have? Does it have a super fast refresh? Do you find it has a more limited field of view?

How do you have it mounted on your helmet? Is it that much heavier than a monocle?
 
Perhaps you misunderstood me. I don't have thermal. Up in post #30 I wrote, "I'm jealous of your thermal scope, sight unseen, just because it's nice to have options. I've seen video of what the Trijicon IR Patrol M300W is capable of -- WOW." I thought it was clear from that jealousy remark that I don't have that option (thermal) -- but I suppose not. As for the IR Patrol Video ... the video I was referring to is the one I linked for you to watch, too.

Now, as to whether I could use a thermal scope as a better option for running around in the woods -- I think that would depend on what I had, if I had one. If I had the crazy $8k IR Patrol M300W, I'd hazard a guess that I could. I think that leads right into how it's mounted to the helmet. From what I've read, the IR Patrol units utilize a Wilcox shoe interface and bridge mount in which the shoe interface provides a dovetail that will readily fit into a Wilcox L4 G24 ... which can, of course, attach to a shroud. See the attached pic of an IR Patrol unit with the Wilcox shoe interface and bridge mount attached for context worth 1000 words.

But, alas ... thermal is a distant dream for me. Heck, a WP tube feels like a distant dream, too, given a 20ish week lead. You've got me second-guessing the choice I thought I had finalized, by the way. Grrr!
 

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You could get a set of binos from Kosher Surplus in a week or so.

For less than 4K.

 
Perhaps you misunderstood me. I don't have thermal. Up in post #30 I wrote, "I'm jealous of your thermal scope, sight unseen, just because it's nice to have options. I've seen video of what the Trijicon IR Patrol M300W is capable of -- WOW." I thought it was clear from that jealousy remark that I don't have that option (thermal) -- but I suppose not. As for the IR Patrol Video ... the video I was referring to is the one I linked for you to watch, too.

Now, as to whether I could use a thermal scope as a better option for running around in the woods -- I think that would depend on what I had, if I had one. If I had the crazy $8k IR Patrol M300W, I'd hazard a guess that I could. I think that leads right into how it's mounted to the helmet. From what I've read, the IR Patrol units utilize a Wilcox shoe interface and bridge mount in which the shoe interface provides a dovetail that will readily fit into a Wilcox L4 G24 ... which can, of course, attach to a shroud. See the attached pic of an IR Patrol unit with the Wilcox shoe interface and bridge mount attached for context worth 1000 words.

But, alas ... thermal is a distant dream for me. Heck, a WP tube feels like a distant dream, too, given a 20ish week lead. You've got me second-guessing the choice I thought I had finalized, by the way. Grrr!

I was kinda poking you a bit with the questions to drive home the fact that while you are looking to tell me I am wrong about something, I actually own NV and thermal and have used them. It isn’t my goal to spout misinformation. I’m trying to provide the best info I have based upon research and personal experience thus far. You don’t have to agree with me, that’s fine. Heck I might be wrong. I don’t pretend to have all the answers. Really trying to help, that’s all. Not a lot of info on the forum about this topic but a lot of folks are looking to get into it.

Believe you’ll find that the way things look in a YouTube video and how they look in reality are sometimes different. That video above is, in my opinion, not representative because the WP tube doesn’t appear to be in focus in the first part of the video. Either that or it is a terrible tube. My little Echo spec tube blows that thing away in terms of clarity and it is far from top of the line.

When people put thermal scopes on a dovetail and use them on a helmet, the primary usage is a hands free scanner. Not for moving running around in the woods.

I believe if your plan is to get a really high end thermal and use it for navigation I think you will be disappointed.

The purpose of a NV monocle isn’t just navigation though. It’s also about being able to see your IR laser for aiming purposes. How do you intend to aim and shoot with just a thermal monocle?
 
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But, alas ... thermal is a distant dream for me. Heck, a WP tube feels like a distant dream, too, given a 20ish week lead. You've got me second-guessing the choice I thought I had finalized, by the way. Grrr!
Yeah buddy, I know exactly how you feel. Man do I ever.

Luckily the long wait times for NFA items have sorta tempered me to wait for NV.

This is a huge purchase and decisions won’t be made without a lot of consideration. Sometimes it is helpful to have some back and forth on this topic because it helps think critically about the YouTube sale pitches. Or the complete lack of sales pitches. The JRH site looks like it was built in 1997. All the data is a giant wall of text. But he doesn’t really define the terms. You’ve got to search the web to figure out what FOM, halo, and all sorts of other metrics means.

I watched at least 50 videos and read all the relevant threads on Arfcom about NV and thermal. But it didn’t click until someone handed me a PVS-14. The internet said you would be okay without a counterweight on your helmet for a single tube. The second I had it in my hand I knew that wasn’t true. The issue with my glasses didn’t come up until I actually mounted the thing on my head. Thus I very grudgingly bought the G22 mount.

It is a shame more companies don’t have demo sessions. You’ve got to track someone down that owns this stuff to really understand it. For example, you can look at pics all day regarding WP vs GP. But despite being absolutely sure I had to have WP...the first time I looked through a green tube I knew I’d be happy with either one. It also showed me that duals are simply better than a monocle.

If we are going to spend as much on this crap as a good used car (and I already have) might as well hash it all out now. :)
 
Since the thread has drifted some I don't feel too bad to drift off in another direction-so, another NV cherry asking questions somewhat after the fact-

Long time back, I bought a surplus NVG7 - is it pretty much like PVS-7 and specifically what kind of mount can be used?
I've picked up a rhino type mount along the way as well as a skull crusher, but I'm guessing that I either need an adapter or something entirely different.

Here's the device-

71dd28ddf43a80da7055533ad8373bfd.jpg


Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
 
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Since the thread has drifted some I don't feel too bad to drift off in another direction-so, another NV cherry asking questions somewhat after the fact-

Long time back, I bought a surplus NVG7 - is it pretty much like PVS-7 and specifically what kind of mount can be used?
I've picked up a rhino type mount along the way as well as a skull crusher, but I'm guessing that I either need an adapter or something entirely different.

Here's the device-

71dd28ddf43a80da7055533ad8373bfd.jpg


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It looks like this MIGHT be it but I'm not sure.


That looks like it has a screw that attaches it to the rail you've got there. The adapter would then work with a bayonet mount. But it's pretty tough to tell from the pics. If you're on Facebook there are some Nightvision 101 groups out there. I see people posting about PVS-7s all the time. Bet you a donut someone there would know chapter and verse. Also could try Arfcom. Maybe someone else here will know and you won't have to go through the trouble.
 
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