Ok. How bad did I screw up?

S

Schattenreiter

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Got a wild hair the other day and replies to a listing for and old atlas lathe. Missed it by this much. Sad to cause it was pristine and the price was great. Fast fwd to yesterday and another less desirable candidate came up. Felt.like the asking price was fair given its condition so I bought it. What do you think?


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Did you get the change gears?

You’ll learn a lot taking it down to every last screw and felt. Buy some evapo-rust.

Fine lathe for learning, and you’ll probably make money when/if you upgrade.
 
Already started. Took the tail stock off and cranked the carriage all the way fwd. Then took angle grinder with a buffing pad to the bed. Most of the rust is gone now. Put the tail stock back on an got it adjusted so it slide free and is still tight.

Looks like most of the work will be cleaning. I have discovered that the gear that moves the carriage has a tooth missing. Gonna need a replacement if such exists.

Then comes the motor. The guy that had it replaced the original but had it turning the chuck backwards. Got to find out if the motor can be wired to reverse.
 
Schattenreiter said:
I have discovered that the gear that moves the carriage has a tooth missing. Gonna need a replacement if such exists.


If it is a single tooth, you might find a machine shop that can weld it up and dress it down to match, if you can't find one. I had a guy in the company machine shop do that for me one time. He welded it up, then dressed a grinding wheel with the profile and ground it in on the surface grinder.
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BASIL said:
View attachment 548699 looks just like mine. I bought from a member.
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Yours looks better. You got the quick change tool rest and a drill chuck. And you got chips around yours. 👍


Plus you have a 3 jaw chuck. Mine is a 4 jaw. I have very little lathe experience and no 4 jaw experience at all.
 
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BASIL said:
You can still get parts for them. If you want a copy of the manual I'll try to make it happen.
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Very much appreciate that. It came with one that has about 18 pages. If yours has more than that I would love to have the additional pages. Where is the best place to get parts?
 
One nice thing about a 4 jaw chuck is that you can dial in your stock pretty close. With a 3 jaw you're limited to the accuracy / repeatability of the chuck.

You can also add a quick change tool post if desired.

One motor option you have is to replace the single phase motor with a 3 phase one, and add a reversible VFD. That will allow you to choose any speed w/o changing belts. But, it's probably overkill for the lathe...
 
Scsmith42 said:
One nice thing about a 4 jaw chuck is that you can dial in your stock pretty close. With a 3 jaw you're limited to the accuracy / repeatability of the chuck.

You can also add a quick change tool post if desired.

One motor option you have is to replace the single phase motor with a 3 phase one, and add a reversible VFD. That will allow you to choose any speed w/o changing belts. But, it's probably overkill for the lathe...
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More like overkill for the operator. I will probably get a drill chuck first. I can change the belt to change the speed for now anyway.
 
Schattenreiter said:
Already started. Took the tail stock off and cranked the carriage all the way fwd. Then took angle grinder with a buffing pad to the bed. Most of the rust is gone now. Put the tail stock back on an got it adjusted so it slide free and is still tight.

Looks like most of the work will be cleaning. I have discovered that the gear that moves the carriage has a tooth missing. Gonna need a replacement if such exists.

Then comes the motor. The guy that had it replaced the original but had it turning the chuck backwards. Got to find out if the motor can be wired to reverse.
Click to expand...
Cool! Make sure you post pics of it as you're cleaning it up!
 
Scsmith42 said:
One nice thing about a 4 jaw chuck is that you can dial in your stock pretty close. With a 3 jaw you're limited to the accuracy / repeatability of the chuck.

You can also add a quick change tool post if desired.

One motor option you have is to replace the single phase motor with a 3 phase one, and add a reversible VFD. That will allow you to choose any speed w/o changing belts. But, it's probably overkill for the lathe...
Click to expand...
Those VFD's are very, very, convenient.
 
Schattenreiter said:
Got a wild hair the other day and replies to a listing for and old atlas lathe. Missed it by this much. Sad to cause it was pristine and the price was great. Fast fwd to yesterday and another less desirable candidate came up. Felt.like the asking price was fair given its condition so I bought it. What do you think?


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View attachment 548621View attachment 548622View attachment 548623View attachment 548627

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You’ve got some work ahead of you, but you’ll learn plenty taking it apart
 
Parts on order. Man those people at Clausing are terrific. Wish they sold firearms. Emailed yesterday(Sunday) to inquire about parts. Got a reply early this am and a price quote. Called after lunch and got those and some more parts ordered and the guy said they would ship today. Can't beat that with a stick.
 
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You. Ant tell anything with that bar you have in the chuck.

You really need a machined bar with known measurements.
 
No sin in being ignorant. Choosing to remain ignorant is just plain stupid so I will ask. What would a machined bar with known measurements tell me?
 
The rust on the bar you have in the chuck can throw the alignment off terribly.

A machined bar will chuck correctly and let you set it with 0 runout. You will then be able to find the true alignment with the tailstock.





This explains it better than I can.
 
Thanks . I will look at the video when I get to a computer. Old eyes and small screens don't play well together.

I faced off the end of that rod and left only that little tit(down you perverts) and it seems to line up pretty close with the dead center in the tail stock. Probably won't pass a micrometer test but then neither will I. What I know about lathes you could count on one hand and have fingers left over.

Good news is I am willing to learn. Thanks again.
 
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LeeMajors said:
The rust on the bar you have in the chuck can throw the alignment off terribly.

A machined bar will chuck correctly and let you set it with 0 runout. You will then be able to find the true alignment with the tailstock.





This explains it better than I can.
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Finally got a chance to watch the video. I am surprised. I actually understood what it was saying. I will have to find more like it and improve what little I know.
 
Just ordered a drill chuck to go with the lathe. Thinking about a barrel switch to reverse the motor but not sure if it is even needed.

Someone with knowledge of lathes chime in and tell me the benefits/drawbacks of reversing the lathe.

I checked out Blondihacks and it looks like we will be spending a lot of time together in the future.
 
Of the 3 lathes I've owned over the last 25 years I can recall only once I used reverse. Thay was for threading and I couldn't find the correct tool I needed and used the one for inside threading mounted upside down
 
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LeeMajors said:
Of the 3 lathes I've owned over the last 25 years I can recall only once I used reverse. Thay was for threading and I couldn't find the correct tool I needed and used the one for inside threading mounted upside down
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That's what I needed to know. I can see on a wood working lathe reversing it to apply a finish but was sure about a metal lathe.
 
I had a metal lathe, but never cut threads and no idea how. Always assumed that you reversed to get the carriage back to the start of the cut for the next pass. No?
 
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