PSA warranty

Stogies

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 12, 2017
Messages
3,413
Location
NC
Rating - 100%
1   0   0
So have a PSA AR15 with an empty (as in fired) steel casing stuck solid in the chamber. Somebody said call them and ask if I can send it in under warranty. Before I get laughed out the door anybody have any experience with how open minded they define warranty? I had some HiPoints I sent in at various times and they had no issues whatsorever fixing whatever needed fixing but I have not yet delt with PSA.
 
Last edited:
Pogo that thing open!!!
Is it a complete casing or has the neck been ripped off?
If it’s just the top of the neck, there are broken shell extractors that cost around $12 that will take care of it moos Riki tik!
 
Shipping a gun back and forth for a stuck empty casing seems like a lot of effort. Assuming you've already tried mortaring it, have you tried tapping it out with cleaning rod? If the rim is still on the case, is your extractor worn? Tried replacing it and using an HD extractor spring or o-ring? If the rim is ripped off, try a shell extractor as mentioned above. Personally, I’d rather fix it myself for the experience alone.
 
I have had great luck with PSA. Haven't had to send anything in.

I know a few other people who have had to send things back to PSA. They were taken care of without any issues.

I agree with the previous posts though. I would try to get it out yourself before going thru the trouble. Mortar first, then cleaning rod or dowel.

If more cases get stuck then it probably does need to go back.

Good luck!
 
stuck case should tap right out. The main question is how it occurred so as to prevent another stuck cases. If extractor gave out can also just replace the extractor then cycle the action to remove the case. If extractor is intact I’d focus on potential chamber irregularity as the culprit.
 
Thanks for the input. Some details: The gun is almost brand new, any extractor wear is thus highly improbable. We have tried the cleaning rod and mallet already but it's not budging. Far as I know the rim of the casing wasn't ripped off. I will look at the broken shell extractors!
 
As for the extracor any recommendations on the brand or type? Does this only work if the rim is missing?
 
Thanks for the input. Some details: The gun is almost brand new, any extractor wear is thus highly improbable. We have tried the cleaning rod and mallet already but it's not budging. Far as I know the rim of the casing wasn't ripped off. I will look at the broken shell extractors!


If you haven’t already, try hosing the bore down with a penetrating oil with the muzzle up. It will work its way around the stuck casing and may allow you to tap it out with the cleaning rod.

I had such a stuck case once with lacquered steel ammo in an AR. After I got it removed, the rifle wouldn’t function properly because there was lacquer left in the chamber. It took chucking a chamber brush in a drill and power brushing the chamber to get it to extract again. Never had a problem after that, but I did stop shooting lacquered steel ammo in it.
 
If you haven’t already, try hosing the bore down with a penetrating oil with the muzzle up. It will work its way around the stuck casing and may allow you to tap it out with the cleaning rod.

I had such a stuck case once with lacquered steel ammo in an AR. After I got it removed, the rifle wouldn’t function properly because there was lacquer left in the chamber. It took chucking a chamber brush in a drill and power brushing the chamber to get it to extract again. Never had a problem after that, but I did stop shooting lacquered steel ammo in it.
This is good advice. Put enough Kroil or PBblaster down the barrel to submerge the fired case, let it sit over night, then try again to extract the casing, either pogo or cleaning rod.
 
This is good advice. Put enough Kroil or PBblaster down the barrel to submerge the fired case, let it sit over night, then try again to extract the casing, either pogo or cleaning rod.
This. This works great.
 
We alreay tried the penetrating oil with no success. As for the extracor any recommendations on the brand or type? Does this only work if the rim is missing?
 
while entertaining, this thread is confusing. So the extractor claw broke or not? If not then there’s probably no need to go replacing the extractor. but at post #13 the extractor situation is still unclear so hoping for clarity might be a stretch.

if the case will not budge with penetrating oil and a cleaning rod, i would personally not have much hope that a BCG and charging handle will suffice in extraction. As others have suggested, let it sit it in penetrating oil for sufficient amount of time. And if still not budging then warm up the chamber a bit with a heat gun. given use of penetrating oil i would perform this outside to minimize fume inhalation. the case will absolutely budge and the chamber should be inspected. Normally for this I’d use a borescope. Other option is to take it to a reputable gunsmith and let them address it.
 
while entertaining, this thread is confusing. So the extractor claw broke or not? If not then there’s probably no need to go replacing the extractor. but at post #13 the extractor situation is still unclear so hoping for clarity might be a stretch.

if the case will not budge with penetrating oil and a cleaning rod, i would personally not have much hope that a BCG and charging handle will suffice in extraction. As others have suggested, let it sit it in penetrating oil for sufficient amount of time. And if still not budging then warm up the chamber a bit with a heat gun. given use of penetrating oil i would perform this outside to minimize fume inhalation. the case will absolutely budge and the chamber should be inspected. Normally for this I’d use a borescope. Other option is to take it to a reputable gunsmith and let them address it.
As so often things get sorted as the thread moves along as you don't realize what info you may be missing. The extractor on the rifle is fine but the penetrating oil has been tried and failed. The broken shell extractor would have been my next bet but I guess that's out now as well.
 
As for the extracor any recommendations on the brand or type? Does this only work if the rim is missing?
I believe I bought mine from Brownell’s.
As far as I know, the extractor only works on casings that have had the neck ripped off .
My first experience with one was in a CETME that had sheared the neck off of a brass casing.
Worked like a charm.
 
Heat the area with heat gun or hair dryer then apply freeze spray on the case, then try to tap it out.
This. Throw in a freezer for a few hours then try again. While it works best with brass cases (brass and steel gain retain cold differently) we've unstuck many pew pew this way.. Good luck
 
So I finally got around to asking PSA if they would consider this for a repair under warranty thinking they would surely laugh hysterically for me asking. I told them straight up what happened and sent pictures. They sent me an RMA to send the upper back. I am really perplexed!
 
So I finally got around to asking PSA if they would consider this for a repair under warranty thinking they would surely laugh hysterically for me asking. I told them straight up what happened and sent pictures. They sent me an RMA to send the upper back. I am really perplexed!
Well score one for PSA for going above and beyond.
 
So I finally got around to asking PSA if they would consider this for a repair under warranty thinking they would surely laugh hysterically for me asking. I told them straight up what happened and sent pictures. They sent me an RMA to send the upper back. I am really perplexed!
Part of the reason they're so successful even with a reputation for shipping the odd lemon is that they've been excellent at fixing issues that some companies would write off as your problem. They're not quite Hi Point yet for warranty work, but they're bloody close.
 
So they had my rifle for about a week and it's now on it's way back. The email said they removed the casing, inspected the chamber for damage, polished it up and fired 3 mags through it with no problems. They did remark that, I quote, "non chrome lined barrels tend to have more issues with steel casings sticking" which I found interesting. All in all a rather good experience with PSA.
 
Steel case ammo is notorious for carbon fouling in the chamber. This is partially due to the expansion rate of the steel is slower than brass. This allows for some blow by gas, before the case seals against the chamber. Resulting in carbon fouling and build up. On the other end of the cycle, the steel is slower to shrink back as well. This delays the release of the case from the chamber walls often enough to conflict with the extractor attempting to pull the case out of the chamber. This causes excessive wear on the extractor and sometimes the extractor will pop over the case rim and leave the fired case in the chamber. But, a fraction of a second later, the case has released and the casing can fall out of the chamber on its own.
 
Last edited:
Steel case ammo is notorious for carbon fouling in the chamber. This is partially due to the expansion rate of the steel is slower than brass. This allows for some blow by gas, before the case seals against the chamber. Resulting in carbon fouling and build up. On the other end of the cycle, the steel is slower to shrink back as well. This delays the release of the case from the chamber walls often enough to conflict with the extractor attempting to pull the case out of the chamber. This causes excessive wear on the extractor and sometimes the extractor will pop over the case rim and leave the fired case in the chamber. But, a fraction of a second later, the case has released and the casing can fall out of the chamber on its own.
Question...
Any ideas why AK's and SKS don't have this problem?
They have been running steel cased ammo in them since the 1950's with no issues.
 
@Stogies

What is your AR chambered in?

.223?
5.56?
7.62 x 39?

( Not that it matters, just curious for this discussion )
 
Generally very loose tolerances? Also no direct gas impingement.
Chamber tolerance is dictated by the finish reamer. If the chamber tolerance is loose, the blowby should be worse.


How the action is cycled should have no affect on this problem.
 
Last edited:
I've never understood why blowing crud directly into the receiver seemed like a good idea lol. Seems to work though.
It actually doesn't. It get routed inside the bolt carrier to push against the gas rings and then is vented to atmosphere once the bolt/gas rings have traveled back enough to clear the vents in the side of the BC. Some fouling occurs when the gas key seperates from the gas tube but the internal pressure of the BC has diminished rapidly at that point.
 
It actually doesn't. It get routed inside the bolt carrier to push against the gas rings and then is vented to atmosphere once the bolt/gas rings have traveled back enough to clear the vents in the side of the BC. Some fouling occurs when the gas key seperates from the gas tube but the internal pressure of the BC has diminished rapidly at that point.
Don't ruin a good gripe with your technical exactitude sir! It's a flimsy Mattel gun made out of beer cans and recycled soda bottles and it will never catch on.
 
Having unloaded a ton of cheap chinese ammo through AKs one thing that never happens is a stuck case. I'm sure the chambers are loosey goosey to enable the infallible reliability with lacquered steel.

Playing around with P80 and other glock clones, it was interesting to note the similar slop in factory Glock chambers vs. aftermarket barrels.
 
I'm sure the chambers are loosey goosey to enable the infallible reliability with lacquered steel.
Chamber gaging would reveal this to be true or not. I am of the opinion that a loose chamber would operate even dirtier and it would allow pressure to bleed back instead of pushing the bullet out. Muzzle velocity would drop. Pressure drop in the chamber would also lessen the "push" of the case against the chamber wall.
 
Last edited:
One, i believe the guns were designed to run steel case ammo, so gas/timing may be part of the design parameters to accommodate this. I also believe the case design is more tapered and less susceptible to fouling. I haven't studied it to great detail. But, I know the steel obturation rate of steel case is a factor in function based on past experiences.
 
Back
Top Bottom