Removing broken torque bit from scope mount.

Downeast

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I'm out of ideas. I removed the front scope (two screws) mount from the action with no problem and one of the two rear screws holding the rear scope mount. The last screw was tight and the torque bit broke flush with the top of the base. So now I have the bottom portion of the torque bit wedged into the hole. I tried an easy out without success. :mad: I assume the screw is fine underneath.
 
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So the torx bit is broken off flush with the socket head screw?

Usually I remove these by gently tapping on them with a fine point punch. What you're trying to do is gently loosen the bit in the socket so that it will fall out. I'll tap along the perimeter of the bit in such a way that I'm trying to tighten or loosen the bit in the socket. That way it will help to peen out any distortion in the bit or the socket so that it removes easily.
 
Maybe cut a notch with a dremel tool for a flat screwdriver. Might be some loctite on those threads , heatgun/hair dryer may loosen it.
 
Tried tapping it out but it didn't work. Probably shouldn't have tried the Easy Out. It's really wedged in there. I think the torque head probably twisted in the screw head before it broke. It figures that the one in the recess would be the one to break. I'm not interested in the base. I was going to trash it and replace it with a rail.
 

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Drill out and retap it. Or use file and make a slot and use small flat head to remove. Those options are what I do in my shop of customers
This, but try the flathead route first. If it doesn't work you can try the drill method.

Since you don't care about the base you may be able to use an oversized drill bit and just drill to the point you have the head removed, then pull off the base. You should have a small bit of the shank visible and may be able to get it to twist out with a pair of channel locks, vise grips, etc.
 
I've broken an EZOut flush with a motor mount bolt on an old Chevy small block. If a Torx bit is anywhere as hard as an EZout , you're going to learn some new words trying to drill that bad boy out of there.
 
Tried tapping it out but it didn't work. Probably shouldn't have tried the Easy Out. It's really wedged in there. I think the torque head probably twisted in the screw head before it broke. It figures that the one in the recess would be the one to break. I'm not interested in the base. I was going to trash it and replace it with a rail.
You can use try an hex key for it. Ive had torx bits strip out and Ive been able to hammer in a hex bit and it was enough to grab
 
I use cobalt drill bits to remove broken tool tips at work. Just deep enough to go through the broken bit, not the fastener. 80% of the time it relieves enough tension to rattle loose. The other 20% requires either shocking it out with a hammer blow or drilling on through the head of the fastener right through the bit. Fair warning, don’t try this with your Lowe’s high speed steel drill bits.
 
That actually looks like a situation where you can just grind down the mount and/or break it like Lee Majors said, to expose the screwhead and remove it that way. No need for any more unneeded stress on the torx screw. Just be careful not to wrench the head of the screw off.
 
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Carefully cut the rear portion of the mount in half with a hacksaw. Then cut the front section horizontally and using the Dremel carefully cut the screw making sure to leave enough in the receiver to unscrew with a small pair of vice grips.
 

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Good job! That's about the way I would have done it, once I considered the mount expendable.
 
Congrats ! Will there be a YouTube video? Bet you had a big smile when you felt/heard that telltale snik.
 
What make or brand of Torx bit was it, that broke off like that?
I can't really remember? I have quite a few and most of my bits end up in a "bit jar". I usually get a set for Christmas and at the end of the year there are always a few missing so the rest end up in the "jar" along with an assortment of other bits. But most of the sets come from Lowes and their house brand is Kobalt.
 
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