S&W 66 2.5” 357

22Rimfire

22Rimfire

Formally Fortkevin2...
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Curious if someone could help me identify year of manufacture and what the going rate for this 66 would be? Stainless 2.5” 357 mag. Does not have original grips or box. Serial number starts with BFK8XXX Thanks!


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Greetings! Lets try to get you dialed in: Can you first tell us if it is a -2 or.........? The pinned barrel and recessed cylinders were dx'd at -2 in 1982. Confirm "dash" and we'll run from there.

NOTE: Model 66's have gone absolutely ballistic as have a lot of the other stainless K's. Definitely drool worthy and even without factory grips, box, etc, I'd still say bumping up against $725-750 and depending on audience, North from there.
 
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jfanatic said:
Greetings! Lets try to get you dialed in: Can you first tell us if it is a -2 or.........? The pinned barrel and recessed cylinders were dx'd at -2 in 1982. Confirm "dash" and we'll run from there.

NOTE: Model 66's have gone absolutely ballistic as have a lot of the other stainless K's. Definitely drool worthy and even without factory grips, box, etc, I'd still say bumping up against $725-750 and depending on audience, North from there.
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Hi, thanks for the response. It’s a -3


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I saw a variety of 66 snubbies at the Statesville show today. Seems they were asking in the neighborhood of $1200. They didn’t get that from me.
 
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Jeppo said:
I saw a variety of 66 snubbies at the Statesville show today. Seems they were asking in the neighborhood of $1200. They didn’t get that from me.
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Mine is staying exactly where its at! If I were a betting man, I'd guess those 66's are still sitting there at $1,200! I think my range is closer to "reality".
 
jfanatic said:
Mine is staying exactly where its at! If I were a betting man, I'd guess those 66's are still sitting there at $1,200! I think my range is closer to "reality".
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If I were to buy a 3 inch or under .357 today, would I be better off buying a new production or finding an older one?
 
Mr. Robot said:
If I were to buy a 3 inch or under .357 today, would I be better off buying a new production or finding an older one?
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If it were me..............Older one ALL the way!! Easy answer for a good question! But hey, I'm old! I see no value in MIM parts, extra holes above the cylinder latch and I still like to see a hammer mounted firing pin..........Like I said, I'm old!
Honestly, a new one (my point of reference is SW) will likely serve you very well! Its just that, depending on what you're looking at, a brand new SW revolver in .38/.357 may well cost you about the same or more if you shop smart as an older model and you could likely get your money back out of it more quickly if you wanted to. One question to ask -- J, K or L frame?
 
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Mr. Robot said:
If I were to buy a 3 inch or under .357 today, would I be better off buying a new production or finding an older one?
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I’d be very tempted by the Kimber K6.
 
jfanatic said:
If it were me..............Older one ALL the way!! Easy answer for a good question!
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Thank you! Something like this 66 looks ideal, love the look as well as the functionality of it but is there any other models I should be on the lookout for? Like a model 60? New to the revolver game so still learning
 
Jeppo said:
I’d be very tempted by the Kimber K6.
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I wouldn’t be opposed, beautiful guns and have been interested since they released. My only hesitation would be reliability/track record. I’d definitely need to look more into them first but will 100% keep them in mind
 
Mr. Robot said:
Thank you! Something like this 66 looks ideal, love the look as well as the functionality of it but is there any other models I should be on the lookout for? Like a model 60? New to the revolver game so still learning
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Text books have been written on your one question alone. Lots of questions best debated over really good bourbon and grossly undercooked meat! A few:
-Intended purpose?
-Why .357?
-Intended purpose - yep, I know I list this twice. Its the most important question to answer to best move forward.
 
jfanatic said:
Text books have been written on your one question alone. Lots of questions best debated over really good bourbon and grossly undercooked meat! A few:
-Intended purpose?
-Why .357?
-Intended purpose - yep, I know I list this twice. Its the most important question to answer to best move forward.
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Would be for belt carry + as a range toy. I do outdoor recreation along the East coast so basically an “innawoods” as well as a carry gun in/around town.

.357 for ammo compatibility with my J-frame(s). Want to be able to shoot both .38 and .357 if I’d like the extra oomph

Lastly, I’d like a revolver larger than my J-frame that I can actually carry and practice with. Hope that helps narrow it down 😬
 
Mr. Robot said:
Would be for belt carry + as a range toy. I do outdoor recreation along the East coast so basically an “innawoods” as well as a carry gun in/around town.

.357 for ammo compatibility with my J-frame(s). Want to be able to shoot both .38 and .357 if I’d like the extra oomph

Lastly, I’d like a revolver larger than my J-frame that I can actually carry and practice with. Hope that helps narrow it down 😬
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To me then, it would be really, really hard to beat a 586/686!
 
Gunbelt said:
I had a Kimber 20 years ago. I found a fish & traded it to a Colt!
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I’ve posted before…

I‘m unable to understand why they can’t spit out 100% reliable bottom feeders but can seem to machine excellent revolvers.
 
Jeppo said:
I’ve posted before…

I‘m unable to understand why they can’t spit out 100% reliable bottom feeders but can seem to machine excellent revolvers.
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I would actually be tempted to trade my Carry Comp II for one of their 2" revolvers..........tempted. That being said, though I've only fired 40 rounds through the CC2, it was reliable right out of the box.
 
22Rimfire said:
Curious if someone could help me identify year of manufacture and what the going rate for this 66 would be? Stainless 2.5” 357 mag. Does not have original grips or box. Serial number starts with BFK8XXX Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
65ddfaabc849de1cd6db724aa8b0fc60.jpg
Click to expand...
So is this one going to be for snail or no?
 
22Rimfire said:
Curious if someone could help me identify year of manufacture and what the going rate for this 66 would be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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BFF was August 1990, BFW was February 1991, so it was between those two dates.
 
For a collector, a old 66 is a sweet piece.
but I hate machined SS sights with a passion.
If I were actually going to shoot it, I’d buy a newer gun that has ability to easily put good sights on it. Then I’d send it to a pro like Mojo or Pinnacle and have it fixed and tuned. I feel like all current smith revos need to be fixed somewhat. Just my opinion.
 
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I'll post a pix of my PPC service gun - K frame where we milled off the stainless ramp and dovetailed it for a Wlliams fiber optic.
Wouldn't do that to a valuable gun but its a solution to the unmodifiable solid ramp.
 
22Rimfire said:
Curious if someone could help me identify year of manufacture and what the going rate for this 66 would be? Stainless 2.5” 357 mag. Does not have original grips or box. Serial number starts with BFK8XXX Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
65ddfaabc849de1cd6db724aa8b0fc60.jpg
Click to expand...
BFK8XXX Would have shipped 1990-91
 
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NKD said:
For a collector, a old 66 is a sweet piece.
but I hate machined SS sights with a passion.
If I were actually going to shoot it, I’d buy a newer gun that has ability to easily put good sights on it. Then I’d send it to a pro like Mojo or Pinnacle and have it fixed and tuned. I feel like all current smith revos need to be fixed somewhat. Just my opinion.
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Add a red ramp.
 
Etruett said:
Remember S&W shotguns? I thought they were underated but you couldn’t give one away
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Not so now. Last year I sold on Gunbroker a S&W Police Cylinder shotgun, with box and extra barrel, and it went for well over $500. This was the high gloss blue, walnut version. Having only paid $300 OTD for it a few years ago, I was pleased.
 
NKD said:
For a collector, a old 66 is a sweet piece.
but I hate machined SS sights with a passion.
If I were actually going to shoot it, I’d buy a newer gun that has ability to easily put good sights on it. Then I’d send it to a pro like Mojo or Pinnacle and have it fixed and tuned. I feel like all current smith revos need to be fixed somewhat. Just my opinion.
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You should get more familiar with fluorescent paint and/or fingernail polish.
 
Mr. Robot said:
Would be for belt carry + as a range toy. I do outdoor recreation along the East coast so basically an “innawoods” as well as a carry gun in/around town.

.357 for ammo compatibility with my J-frame(s). Want to be able to shoot both .38 and .357 if I’d like the extra oomph

Lastly, I’d like a revolver larger than my J-frame that I can actually carry and practice with. Hope that helps narrow it down 😬
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I absolutely love S&W K frames. They just work for me. So for your intended purpose I would recommend a……

…..3” Ruger SP101.
Seriously.
 
dbracin said:
Add a red ramp.
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It has a red ramp. It’s the top of the sight that’s the problem. It’s stainless and a problem in bright sunlight. Should be black with white or fiber optic. And, I prefer a partridge sight and think ramps suck. These are of course just my preferences.

Etruett said:
You should get more familiar with fluorescent paint and/or fingernail polish.
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That’s exactly what I did when I was a newb. I got a bottle of each of you want them. It still sucks. As noted above, a partridge sight with a better rear, is superior for action shooting. Like LPA or more modern options.
 
NKD said:
As noted above, a partridge sight with a better rear, is superior for action shooting. Like LPA or more modern options.
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And the ramp is superior for carry and police work, for which they were designed and used expensively.
 
stiab said:
And the ramp is superior for carry and police work, for which they were designed and used expensively.
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In your opinion, you mean.

“Police work” or “carrying” doesn’t magically make ramp sights better. Or everyone would change their Glock/CZ/S&W sights to ramps. What a bizarre notion, 😂.
 
NKD said:
In your opinion, you mean.

“Police work” or “carrying” doesn’t magically make ramp sights better. Or everyone would change their Glock/CZ/S&W sights to ramps. What a bizarre notion, 😂.
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No they wouldn't, and it is ridiculous to try and compare police weapons of 40 years ago with those of today. You are critical of ramp sights on older S&W revolvers, and I am just pointing out that they worked very well for carry and police work 'in their day'. That is what they were designed and intended for. S&W offered all sorts of partridge sights on K frames and up for those who wanted them for other purposes.
 
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stiab said:
No they wouldn't, and it is ridiculous to try and compare police weapons of 40 years ago with those of today. You are critical of ramp sights on older S&W revolvers, and I am just pointing out that they worked very well for carry and police work 'in their day'. That is what they were designed and intended for.
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No, you said this:
“And the ramp is superior for carry and police work, for which they were designed and used expensively”.

This is false, imo.
And, I am critical of STAINLESS STEEL FRONT RAMPS BECAUSE BRIGHT SUNLIGHT EXISTS!
Black ramp not nearly as bad. But still could be better.
AND, as I noted in my FIRST POST: if you are wanting a nice collector to occasionaly enjoy: it’s fine.

Just post your opinion. No need to try to quote me and “debunk” mine. I am just trying to help a shooter who may be extremely disappointed (as I was) because I wanted to actually shoot my no dash 686 in matches. No way to change that front sight.
The reason everybody that actually shoots them machines it off and used a pinned front sight or an interchangeable system.

This isn’t an unreasonable scenario considering Jerry Miculek won a world championship in idpa using a 3” smith revo. And guess what: his sights are not stainless ramps. No he doesn’t paint his sights with nail polish. He uses a partridge front with a gold bead, or a mepro night sight. You gonna debunk him too? 😂

Use what you want. My opinion is not the “correct one”. It’s just my opinion based on my experience. That’s why I posted it without quoting anybody else.

And if you think “I can’t shoot well” then I’d be happy to show you. I ain’t no expert, and plenty of great shooters on this forum have beaten up on me plenty, but I ain’t hiding. My scores for every match I have ever shot are public information. Come on out and show me how it’s done.
 
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