Savage MKII FV-SR

I had to order. The only thing I don't like is the stock but Boyd's can fix that.
 
In bought a used Boyd one for a great price.

Added the front sight(dovetail)

Probably going to shave down the rear receiver and thread it instead of using the top rail.

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I found one today at PDHSC for not much more than I would have paid from Buds or Grabagun so it cam home with me and I immediately put it through it's paces. I want to get some decent glass for it but all I had laying around was a Barska that was on a gun I took in trade, I figure it'll do to get things rolling.

I had some Federal Automatch, CCI Standard Velocity, CCI Subsonic, and CCI MiniMags on hand. It liked the SV the best, but I couldn't get any better than 2moa out of it today. Well I did get a couple of 1 moa groups, but it was shooting 2moa consistently. Of course it could be the nut behind the wheel.

I know the most popular upgrade for these is the Boyd's Tacticool stock. How heavy is it compared to the "stock" stock, and will it improve accuracy? I'm curious why you are going the irons route on a bolt gun, do you plan on taking it into the woods?

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From what I've been able to determine and this jibes with what the guys on the rimfire central board have to say about Savage in general is that it can be sensitive to torque on the receiver screws. I've noticed mine changes group size with differing torque. There are guys who pillar bed to eliminate the effect but the easy way is just don't dismount the rifle from the stock.

Mine really, really likes CCI SV (subsonic) and will shoot them sub moa all day when I found the right torque value so that's the ammo I buy more of every time I can find it. Others don't group as well, ranging from 2-3+moa. Testing ammo through any rimfire is essential to finding the best load for your particular rifle.

There are a number of guys over at Rimfire Central forum who've done the Tacticool stock route and they report good accuracy for the most part. It's the next thing I do to mine since the only think I hate about the gun is the stock.
 
+1 on the torque issue. That made all the difference for mine.
 
Have one but haven't fired it yet. Good to know about the torque now lol
 
+1 on the torque issue. That made all the difference for mine.
I remember that thread from the other site. Was the general idea to shoot groups at different torque specs and see what shot best? What did you settle on?
 
I remember that thread from the other site. Was the general idea to shoot groups at different torque specs and see what shot best? What did you settle on?

I'll have to break out the torque driver and see where I'm at. I seem to have lost my notes.
 
I don't remember what I have mine tq to, but it loves CCI Standard.

It's boringly accurate. I shoot at bugs on targets to make it interesting
Same here. It was confiscated by the minion though, so I'll have to build something else now...
 
Same here. It was confiscated by the minion though, so I'll have to build something else now...
Funny that you bring up the minion. My FVSR acquisition was prompted by the realization when I looked into the safe one day and realized that the minions now had all but one of my 22lr guns. I was determined to fix that error so I started on a quest for a new 22lr. I've had the 10/22, wasn't really a fan but it was just ok. One I had was an old Savage that belonged to my grandfather. Oldest minion has it. So after comparing for accuracy, trigger, future suppressor host I pretty much ruled out the 10/22 because even though it is easy to modify, by the time it was acceptable in all categories, I'd be in for like $700. The Remmy 597 has an abysmally bad trigger. It came down to between the CZ and the Savage, hey price wins this time because of domestic manufacture, go 'Murica!
 
Funny that you bring up the minion. My FVSR acquisition was prompted by the realization when I looked into the safe one day and realized that the minions now had all but one of my 22lr guns. I was determined to fix that error so I started on a quest for a new 22lr. I've had the 10/22, wasn't really a fan but it was just ok. One I had was an old Savage that belonged to my grandfather. Oldest minion has it. So after comparing for accuracy, trigger, future suppressor host I pretty much ruled out the 10/22 because even though it is easy to modify, by the time it was acceptable in all categories, I'd be in for like $700. The Remmy 597 has an abysmally bad trigger. It came down to between the CZ and the Savage, hey price wins this time because of domestic manufacture, go 'Murica!

I did the CZ 452 option myself. Was gonna drop it in a manners stock but after our illustrious tax day govco made other plans for me... bastards
 
Weeeeelllll that FVSR purchase also pretty much turned me against my LGS, which is less than 2mi from the house. I went there to order expecting to have to pay MSR or close and have to order it. Proprietor/con artist wanted to charge me right at $400 for it. Haven't been back since. Ordered it from Atlas in Winston, had it a couple days later, been shooting it quite a bit. It settled in at about 5-600 shots. Love that little gun.
 
Funny that you bring up the minion. My FVSR acquisition was prompted by the realization when I looked into the safe one day and realized that the minions now had all but one of my 22lr guns. I was determined to fix that error so I started on a quest for a new 22lr. I've had the 10/22, wasn't really a fan but it was just ok. One I had was an old Savage that belonged to my grandfather. Oldest minion has it. So after comparing for accuracy, trigger, future suppressor host I pretty much ruled out the 10/22 because even though it is easy to modify, by the time it was acceptable in all categories, I'd be in for like $700. The Remmy 597 has an abysmally bad trigger. It came down to between the CZ and the Savage, hey price wins this time because of domestic manufacture, go 'Murica!
Aren't their rimfires manufactured in Canada?
 
I put some better glass on it and tried some better ammo. I'm on a $25 bipod and my support hand for rear support shooting from a low table that I have to bend way over to get a cheek weld and due to the angle I'm looking "up" through the very top of my progressive lens glasses. I'll tell you what, at 18x my almost 59 y.o. heart makes it's presence known! Anyway my first 50yd group with RWS Target was .35"/.7 moa! Boy was I happy... until I shot some more. Couldn't recreate the one hole group. I shot 4 more groups with the RWS ranging from .55-.63". Still better than I was getting with the CCI SV. Didn't have any SV with me today so I'm not certain if it's the ammo or the glass (Vortex Crossfire II 6-18x AO) that made the difference. I also tried some Eley match (they are very proud of that stuff) and it didn't shoot nearly as well as the RWS in my rifle. Considering I'm shooting from an awkward position and doing better than the American Rifleman guys did (https://www.americanrifleman.org/articles/2014/4/30/savage-mark-ii-fv-sr/) I'm not being too hard on myself.

Next I'm going to get the Pro Varmint stock and play around with the receiver screw torque while I continue to break it (and myself) in. I'm also going to try wearing contacts and see what that does. Overall I'm pleased with it. BTW that's a 9mm can in case anyone is wondering. :)

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If you go Boyd's, go on and pillar bed the action. While torque is still important pillars make it less sensitive to it.
 
If you go Boyd's, go on and pillar bed the action. While torque is still important pillars make it less sensitive to it.
Is there a good tutorial for doing it, or someone that does it local? The Pro Varmint is Boyd's new name for what was the Tacticool stock.
 
I'm interested in the pillar bedding also. I shoot damn tight groups already, but wouldn't mind trying to shrink them.
 
I did my first pillar bedding on an old CZ takeoff stock using a Brownells kit (about $50). It was just a practice thing but with the instructions and Lord only knows how many YouTube videos it wasn't that bad but the cost, worry and such made me think twice about doing it again since I only do it once in a blue moon. There are videos on how to use 1/2" aluminum tube from Lowes or other type raw materials but when I am trying to improve a rifle and think of "what if" I screw up a stock or such on a good rifle just to save a few bucks I decided have it done right on the good stuff. I use Joel Pendergraft in Chapel Hill and the little extra cost a wait time is worth knowing he does this way more often than me and doesn't have to reference stuff like I do because he knows what he's doing.

My take is I like having him do it on the nice rifles and higher dollar replacement stocks but I also like doing a a takeoff stock myself after I get the rifle back to learn and have the cheap stock for backup ... mostly just to mess in the shop and let me think I learned something :D.
 
Got my Boyd's Varmint Pro stock today. I went with green just because. A couple of things surprised me. One, the receiver screw torque on the factory stock was horribly mismatched. I don't have a torque driver yet, I was just going to lightly torque them down on the new stock and stop at Harbor Freight after work this week and pick one up. But one of the factory receiver screws was barely snug at all. The second thing was the screws that came from Boyd's with the bottom metal kit weren't right. The two receiver screws were the same, and one needed to be a shorter length. I used one of the factory screws and it worked fine. You would think they would at least make the two wood screw heads the same, but no, so now I have a mix of four different size torx, metric and SAE allen screw heads on the bottom of my rifle, lol. This is what I bought, I don't know why I got the wrong screws. https://www.diproductsinc.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1167811&CAT=3602

Here's a crappy low light pic. It's a lighter shade than I thought it would be, but it's not as vibrant as it looks in the pic, it's more of an OD color. I'll take a better pic when I get it outside. I thought it was going to be a composite, but it is hardwood. Just FYI, the original stock weighed 1.60 lbs, this one weighs 3.02 lbs.

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Yup, you need the DIP bottom metal product. When you do the pillar bedding, be sure that the barrel is still free floating. What's your round count at this time?
 
Yup, you need the DIP bottom metal product. When you do the pillar bedding, be sure that the barrel is still free floating. What's your round count at this time?
The DIP bottom metal was part of the package I ordered, otherwise I wouldn't have gotten any screws at all.

I haven't had it out since my previous post. Maybe 150 tops.
 
If you're only at 150 total down the barrel, I wouldn't get too worried about accuracy just yet. Not saying to not observe, but you'll notice it "settling" down around 500+. These are great rifles for the price, love mine.
 
Really like the green. Looks nice.

Need to get something like this for my new can.
 
Was able to shoot some more yesterday, but only what's on the target below. It''s continuing to tighten up. The tightest groups (small diamonds) were with RWS Target and CCI SV. The others were with CCI Subsonic, Aquila Super Extra SV, and Eley Match (by far the most expensive). Still only about 250 rounds or less through it. I've got the receiver screws torqued to 14 lbs and am not touching them until it's fully broken in.

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Was able to shoot some more yesterday, but only what's on the target below. It''s continuing to tighten up. The tightest groups (small diamonds) were with RWS Target and CCI SV. The others were with CCI Subsonic, Aquila Super Extra SV, and Eley Match (by far the most expensive). Still only about 250 rounds or less through it. I've got the receiver screws torqued to 14 lbs and am not touching them until it's fully broken in.

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Looks like you are getting it dialed in.
 
I bought one for the kids and first range trip realized I needed two, one for each. My youngest picks off clays at 50 yards all day long. When she is done I usually shoot the pieces that are left. The one for my oldest is now dialed in to shoot 200 yard steel at the club. Almost boringly accurate at 200 with CCI SV. So when I get bored at 200 I move it out to 300 yard steel. Hits enough to be fun, hard enough to keep your attention. But I almost need to be alone at the range to hear the 300 yard ding.
 
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I purchased a FV-SR, in January. It has the very ugly "Troy Landry" stock. I mounted a Nikon 3-9x40 scope. The rifle is amazingly accurate with CCI Standard Velocity ammo. Never got into shooting "quality .22lr ammunition".

I don't tighten the receiver screws with a torque wrench. But, I tighten them just a tad over mild finger pressure. Not very scientific, huh?

I disliked the alligator stock so much, I bought a Savage 93E wood stock, to replace it with. The rifle shoots well enough as is, that I may never fit the wood stock. If it ain't broke, why fix it?
 
Thinking of picking one of these up myself. Was originally looking at the 455 Tacticool but they seem near impossible to find! I need something to put my can on when it gets out of jail anyway!

Which scope do you all recommend?
 
Thinking of picking one of these up myself. Was originally looking at the 455 Tacticool but they seem near impossible to find! I need something to put my can on when it gets out of jail anyway!

Which scope do you all recommend?

A couple of the 455 American synthetic threaded on Gun broker.

@Studentofthegun has one of those and its a very nice rifle!
 
I recommend the CZ threaded options. They are a little bit more accurate than my Savage FV-SR.

As far as scopes are concerned, it really depends on what you're doing. I am a proponent of Mueller Scopes. Get the big one for real fine work and the 14x for hunting/plinking.

32x
http://muelleroptics.com/mueller-8-32x44-side-focus-tactical

16x
http://muelleroptics.com/mueller-6-18x44-apv

14x
http://muelleroptics.com/mapv451440

With the 25x scope:

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Three shots to zero it at 50 yards. Then immediately shot these groups in a light rain.
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Battleship Game target at 50 yards.
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