Saw recommendations(went with stihl)

Cluck Norris

Cluck Norris

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I need a new chain saw pretty bad, and I have it somewhat numbered down to three. I cut a lot of wood, between two to four cords a year plus all the other farm stuff. I have a husqbarna 440e and it has lasted three years but just isn’t worth fixing at this time and but up will way more use then it should have ever seen
Looking for real world recommendations for heavy use saws, the three I have it number down to goes
Echo Timberwolf
husqvarna 460 rancher
Stihl farm boss
 
I cut alot of wood. Oak, locust and hickory.
Hard stuff that kills saws. So hard the chain throws sparks. Amazing firewood though.

I own a Stihl MS261C
And a Stihl MS 462C.

They are awesome tools. I use the big saw for bucking and the little saw for felling and limbing. 40:1 fuel. Sharp chains.

These are pro saws. The stihl farm boss is a "heavy duty" homeowner level saw. It's not designed to work everyday.

Your husky is 40.9cc.
The stihl 261 is 50.5cc.
The Stihl 462 is 72 cc.

What I have learned about making saws last is to use the right size saw for the job, always use fresh mix (non ethanol), and always keep a sharp chain. If you killed a 40cc saw in three years then it was the wrong size tool or you are doing something wrong.

Basically, you need two saws IMO.
Once you use a pro grade saw you will understand where the extra cost went.
They will do the same work in less time due to higher RPM, Less vibration, more torque and less downtime.
 
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I’ve got a farm boss. I don’t use it regularly, but it made quick work of a downed Pecan awhile back. No complaints here.
 
Slacker said:
I cut alot of wood. Oak, locust and hickory.
Hard stuff that kills saws. So hard the chain throws sparks. Amazing firewood though.

I own a Stihl MS261C
And a Stihl MS 462C.

They are awesome tools. I use the big saw for bucking and the little saw for felling and limbing. 40:1 fuel. Sharp chains.

These are pro saws. The stihl farm boss is a "heavy duty" homeowner level saw. It's not designed to work everyday.
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And there in lies the issue, I’m not sure the commercial saw is worth the extra cost in my situation. A really nice homeowners level saw will probably do what I need it to do without issue, I have a small saw for limbing and such
 
The Echo CS-590 timber wolf is the best bang for the buck 60cc saw on the market, but it's heavy and a little bulky.

I would go Stihl pro series for heavy use. What is the biggest bar that you might need on the farm?
 
I have a stihl 046. Helluva saw. Have a 25” bar for it for big stuff. But it wears a 20” most times. That bitch will eat especially with the 20”. I’ve always used stihl power tools and always will.
 
My gas Husqvarna has been great, but my electric Stihl is awesome too. Don’t think you can go wrong. Who has the closest chains and parts? I’d go Stilh if I could gets what I need close by.
 
I have a Stihl MS 250 and a Stihl MS 261. I use them frequently and like them both a lot.

I have also have a 30 year old Echo CS3000 13" bar top-handle that will be replaced with a Stihl 194T if it ever dies. Which it doesn't seem to want to.

I used to be all Echo. I just think Stihl has got the best chainsaw going right now.
 
Fullboost21 said:
The Echo CS-590 timber wolf is the best bang for the buck 60cc saw on the market, but it's heavy and a little bulky.

I would go Stihl pro series for heavy use. What is the biggest bar that you might need on the farm?
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Really no more then 20”
 
You can take my old 029 Farm Boss and see if it does what you need. I have a new model that is much easier to start with a compression release, but the 029 is 25 years old. If the 029 can’t hang, you’ll need to go up a couple sizes.
 
Did someone say chainsaw?

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One of my saws is a 461. Awesome saw. If I was in the market for a new Pro saw today the MS500 would be at the top of my list. I’ve used one… Unbelievable power.

A 462 would be a great choice though.

The best thing that you can do for longevity is to use fresh premix every time you use your saw, and throw out anything mix older than 30 days. I use ethanol free premium to make my mix with synthetic oil.
 
A stihl 291 sounds like what you are needing. James river should have what you need.

I agree with Scott. If I can find one I'm all for buying the new 500i. Wicked saw for the size. Although North of $1k is off-putting
 
Buy a commercial/pro model Stihl. It will have all the power you need. It will also be easier on the pocketbook to buy wear parts. Ie rim sprockets are cheaper than a one piece rim sprocket clutch assembly. Buy once cry once.
 
Cluck Norris said:
Really no more then 20”
Click to expand...
Stihl MS261 with a 20" bar and a 16" spare bar & chain combo should handle what you need. If it's in the budget, a MS362 with a couple bar & chain combos would give you a bump in power.

I always hear guys say they didn't buy enough saw, hardly ever hear that they bought too much saw.

I have the Echo CS-590 timber wolf with a 24" bar. Great for the money, but it's heavy for its class.
Usually grab the MS261 for all around use, outfitted with a 18".
Also own a MS500i with a 28" light bar that I've had for months, and just now getting around to breaking it in.
 
My stihl 461 is way more saw than I needed but I'm glad I got it. Have a 36" bar that I've never put on it also. Scary strong.
 
I have a stihl 181 and farm boss. If you’ve burned the husqvarna out in three years I would step up to a pro saw. The farm boss is a nice saw but it’s heavy.
 
I have a Farm Boss with an 18 inch bar and love it. It easily does what I need it to do. I don't know enough about saws to know if it's what you need though. I don't run it as much as you ran that Husqy but it gets a decent workout every now and then.
 
Cluck Norris said:
And there in lies the issue, I’m not sure the commercial saw is worth the extra cost in my situation. A really nice homeowners level saw will probably do what I need it to do without issue, I have a small saw for limbing and such
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I was going off the fact that your 40cc only lasted 3 yrs. A pro saw should double that easily assuming it's maintained.
 
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I recall once hearing the argument that, even if you don't need a super-long bar to cut big wood, you might want one for cutting on the ground so you don't end up bending over so far. Always wanted to test that because using a saw for just a little while usually leaves my back screaming.
 
Another vote for Stihl. I've a 025 I bought when Fran hit in '96. I ran it ten hours a day for two weeks digging out is and my neighbors. Used it on the farm for 11 years to heat the house, cut riding trails, clear fence lines, etc. About a month ago I dropped and diced 6 trees that averaged 2' trunks. It was cutting faster than 2 adults could keeping my work area clear.
My bodes complaint has been parts. Stephen's in F-V (now closed) was great, the 3 other closest dealers wouldn't order what I needed, parts breakdown nor parts are available on line. I've only replaced the bar, chain, a spark plug, air filter and a screw.
Northern Tools just started carrying Stihl, hopefully that's remedied.
What I've done:
- Fresh fuel
- Synthetic oil
- Kept sharp with a round file and Oregon jig that clamps on the
bar
- Each time I point the end at something ~ a foot away and verify
it's slinging oil, if not I clear the oil ways.
 
I have Husqvarna saws....a 20+ y/o 350, a 359, and a 550XP. They have never failed me. They all have the same starting preference when cold....choke-2-3 pulls till it acts like it's gonna start, choke off, one more pull and they fire up.
The only Stihl that I own is a small one for climbing with. It's probably not a "real" Stihl, and it has been a major POS.
I am considering a Pro Stihl for my next one though. Friend has a 291 that is awesome!
 
I’ve got a Stihl 029, Stihl 311 and a Stihl150. They all do a great job for what they’re designed for.
 
Get Off My Lawn said:
Another vote for Stihl. I've a 025 I bought when Fran hit in '96. I ran it ten hours a day for two weeks digging out is and my neighbors. Used it on the farm for 11 years to heat the house, cut riding trails, clear fence lines, etc. About a month ago I dropped and diced 6 trees that averaged 2' trunks. It was cutting faster than 2 adults could keeping my work area clear.
My bodes complaint has been parts. Stephen's in F-V (now closed) was great, the 3 other closest dealers wouldn't order what I needed, parts breakdown nor parts are available on line. I've only replaced the bar, chain, a spark plug, air filter and a screw.
Northern Tools just started carrying Stihl, hopefully that's remedied.
What I've done:
- Fresh fuel
- Synthetic oil
- Kept sharp with a round file and Oregon jig that clamps on the
bar
- Each time I point the end at something ~ a foot away and verify
it's slinging oil, if not I clear the oil ways.
Click to expand...
Bobby’s small engine in Sanford is a great local Stihl dealer.
 
Scsmith42 said:
Bobby’s small engine in Sanford is a great local Stihl dealer.
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My one experience wasn’t good.
I had three fuel caps (blower, weed eater and pole saw) that leaked fuel on me during use, that on recall. The Sanford dealer was one of the three I contacted multiple times for months. I got the caps when I called the warehouse in Hillsboro and gave them an earful. I had new caps the following day.
Thankfully I knew the distribution manager because we’re a vendor.
 
I was just reading an article about chainsaw safety. It said to ALWAYS start the saw with the chain break engaged. Does anybody do that? I never have. Seems to me that this would just be asking for clutch failure.
 
Stihl sized for you needs. 029 to me is a great option. OK next question
 
1. Farm Boss or 261.
2. Must accept greater than green labeled chains which are safer but produce saw dust instead of chips.
3. Min 16” blade.
4. You can use a sawzall up in a tree for smaller 2” or less limbs and its safer and doesn’t need cord restarted. Use Diablo rough cut blade.
5. Stihl is a great product but repair parts and labor are out of this world. Always use premium mix and E free gas. ALWAYS.
6. A saw is only as good as the chain sharpness. Sharpening a chain reduces horsepower needed, engine stress, and cut time.

I highly recommend not buying a Stihl with a suffix of M, BE, etc… Keep it simple so less problems and repair cost. Sure emissions are reduced but so is your wallet.

I cut all day Monday, 3 hours Tuesday. Saw is too small. Bigger saw was stolen out of the garage two years or less ago when the wife left the door up repeatedly to smoke. Might go buy a new one this week.
 
BlackGun said:
...I highly recommend not buying a Stihl with a suffix of M, BE, etc… Keep it simple so less problems and repair cost. Sure emissions are reduced but so is your wallet....
Click to expand...

I second that. I thought it earlier, but didn't feel like arguing. No suffix anything. Not good for reliability. Also, Why "farm boss"? I've heard them said to be a cool name on a saw that has more than its share of problems. That's why I keep a MS250 with a standard bar (catalog says 18", it's not, it's more like 16.5), and have a MS261 with a 20 inch bar. This works for me. I used to have a twin cylinder Echo also, but it's gone and what I have now does what I need.

Reliably.
 
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