Solvent trap kits

wired said:
The pressed stuff is OK up to maybe 9mm use. Its too thin and weak for rifle use. 50-60 degree cones are your best bet. Yeah, 20-25 a baffle is about right these days. I can buy finished machined, bored and clipped baffles for 15 a piece in bulk which is what they do minus the bore job so its not like theyre making a tonof money on them. I have several machined cone cans I do full auto blasts through with short barrels and they hold up fine.

K baffles really dont work well on anything. Get enough of them in a huge can and they'll work OK on 9mm but you could do better in a smaller package with clipped cones. The QB 22 K baffles are hot garbage. I have one I filled with those things and its embarrassingly loud.
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Able to share your source for baffles?
 
tarheelguy said:
I’m not but permit me an ignorant question - why would that make a difference?
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The company Im buying from only sells to SOT's. Theyre finished baffles. Big secret of the industry is most companies that sell silencers outsource a LOT of their work
 
BTTT on my question about a muzzle brake.

Does it help to have a brake vs. direct attach to the barrel? Wondering if a brake would help dissipate gas flow inside the can and slow and disrupt the flow of gas…
 
Thinking brake, blast chamber, SS non-clipped cone 1x), Ti single clipped cones (7-9)…trim skirts to fit into 7.8” Ti tube. Tighten spacing towards exit end. Hosts would be 6.8 (18”) AR, 7.62x39 AR 10.5” or 16” or bolt action .308. Might slip it on a 300HAMR since I know someone oddball enough to build one of those… @Philosofarmer

Ti or SS end caps?

Thoughts on this rough outline? Looking at you @BigWaylon and @wired …

Nate
 
Heck, while I’m at it I should do two. One for 9mm and 5.56/.223 and the larger one for the other stuff.

…I see how this could get addicting 😎@BigWaylon …
 
wired said:
The company Im buying from only sells to SOT's. Theyre finished baffles. Big secret of the industry is most companies that sell silencers outsource a LOT of their work
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I knew a guy, Jeff, who took over his dad's surplus shop. Last I checked he closed down the storefront, does FFL transfers by appointment, and converted most of his floor space to machines to help make silencer parts for other manufacturers. In the time he's not making parts for others, he does some parts he can sell on his ebay store. I've bought a few, which is how i learned not to put threadlocker on 1911 grip screws with a unique wrench format...
 
DrScaryGuy said:
I knew a guy, Jeff, who took over his dad's surplus shop. Last I checked he closed down the storefront, does FFL transfers by appointment, and converted most of his floor space to machines to help make silencer parts for other manufacturers. In the time he's not making parts for others, he does some parts he can sell on his ebay store. I've bought a few, which is how i learned not to put threadlocker on 1911 grip screws with a unique wrench format...
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Linky linky? Why you drop source and give no dets?!?
 
tarheelguy said:
Linky linky? Why you drop source and give no dets?!?
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because he only ever did silencer parts on contract for other manufacturers. He never sold parts, even incomplete parts, to individuals. I'm well aware because he transferred my first few suppressors for me and showed me the lathes he uses for making parts on contract, and specifically said that's the only way he'd do them on account of where he saw things going.
 
tarheelguy said:
Thinking brake, blast chamber, SS non-clipped cone 1x), Ti single clipped cones (7-9)…trim skirts to fit into 7.8” Ti tube. Tighten spacing towards exit end. Hosts would be 6.8 (18”) AR, 7.62x39 AR 10.5” or 16” or bolt action .308. Might slip it on a 300HAMR since I know someone oddball enough to build one of those… @Philosofarmer

Ti or SS end caps?

Thoughts on this rough outline? Looking at you @BigWaylon and @wired …

Nate
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Just some general thoughts, based on actual experience with the ones I built.

I initially built all mine with freeze plugs. I did a set of three packed full of plugs (obviously evenly spaced) and a set where I spaced them out more. As you said, tightened them up as I got to the exit end.

The ones packed full metered better than the spaced out ones.

I’ve since sent them all to ECCO for a recore. One set has serviceable baffle stacks, and one set was converted to tubeless. All of them have staggered spacing.

Here’s an idea of the spacing on the tubeless. They’re 6.5”, 7.5” and 8.5” long.

7A24301B-A035-435F-BA32-64D27941929E.jpeg01B0E0CD-A0A1-4D6D-8797-05094C535059.jpeg
 
BigWaylon said:
Just some general thoughts, based on actual experience with the ones I built.

I initially built all mine with freeze plugs. I did a set of three packed full of plugs (obviously evenly spaced) and a set where I spaced them out more. As you said, tightened them up as I got to the exit end.

The ones packed full metered better than the spaced out ones.

I’ve since sent them all to ECCO for a recore. One set has serviceable baffle stacks, and one set was converted to tubeless. All of them have staggered spacing.

Here’s an idea of the spacing on the tubeless. They’re 6.5”, 7.5” and 8.5” long.

View attachment 574414View attachment 574415
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Looks like you’re running a long BC and the middle section is spaced a little further apart before the spacing tightens up? Seems like a long blast chamber…? I had thought to cut the BC down a bit, run a threaded brake and start with wide spacing for the first 2-3 baffles and then go narrow and even spacing for the rest of the baffles and try to maximize the number of baffles on a given tube length of maybe 8”. Longer seems pretty dang unwieldy and shorter seems like I’m giving up suppression.

Watching SilencerStudent on YouTube and reading wherever I can…
 
Blast chambers are there for use with YHM muzzle devices. And remember the blast baffle takes up part of that space.

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My thinking was to run the end of the muzzle brake an inch or so away from the first baffle (blast baffle?) and start the stack from there. Blast chamber would be occupied mostly by muzzle brake.

Would that be too much muzzle blast against the first baffle?
 
The green line is where the nose of my blast baffle is…

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ETA…as a point of comparison, my YHM LT can has a flat blast baffle, and it’s 2.5” in. So ~1/8” bigger blast chamber in the commercial can, but a completely different design.

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tarheelguy said:
Wow. That close eh? Interesting.

Pretty pleased with the performance of your recored 8”?

Nate
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Pleased with all of them. (Edited my above post as you were posting…just making sure you saw it)
 
Q Half Nelson (apparently the Full Nelson is similar only 2” longer and a shot of something SilencerStudent was working on.

Apparently the Q FN is pretty dang highly rated.

Look like single clipped 60* baffles and spaced very close. Short blast chamber and a little bit more space at the outlet end. Looks like some of the baffles are also ported…

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