I think I'd just do it the way you want. Save the x timbers and put them back when you decide to sellNot planning on selling for at least 5 years.
~9’ for the middle.
I think I'd just do it the way you want. Save the x timbers and put them back when you decide to sellNot planning on selling for at least 5 years.
~9’ for the middle.
Ok, so if we consider that plan...I think I'd just do it the way you want. Save the x timbers and put them back when you decide to sell
IF it were mine I'd go 60 on the 2 smaller and 45 on the middleOk, so if we consider that plan...
What’s more important structurally...the “at least 1/3 the length” of the post or the 45°-60° angle? Better to go less than 1/3 of the way down the post but keep it at least 45° (green), or go 1/3 of the way down and have a smaller angle (blue)? Not drawn to scale, but exaggerated to show what I meant.
View attachment 254218
The angular window of 45-60 degrees is optimum for load transfer to the column. Any steeper and the support would want to slip down the column. Any flatter and it’s pushing too much laterally into the column which would induce a buckle. 45 degrees is optimum.Ok, so if we consider that plan...
What’s more important structurally...the “at least 1/3 the length” of the post or the 45°-60° angle? Better to go less than 1/3 of the way down the post but keep it at least 45° (green), or go 1/3 of the way down and have a smaller angle (blue)? Not drawn to scale, but exaggerated to show what I meant.
View attachment 254218
Just notch them to overlap...and is cutting a spacer to use between a brace and the post a worthwhile endeavor so there’s one hole at the top (right), or use two holes at the top (left) and cut the braces so they meet on the same plane. On the right side, there would be a spacer between the bottom of blue brace and the post.
(really crude sketch, but you get the idea)
View attachment 254221
Cool. So 45°, which puts me closer to the top of the post instead of more towards the middle.The angular window of 45-60 degrees is optimum for load transfer to the column. Any steeper and the support would want to slip down the column. Any flatter and it’s pushing too much laterally into the column which would induce a buckle. 45 degrees is optimum.
The 1/3 length is also trying to prevent a buckling from happening. A column is most susceptible to buckling if a load is applied at the midpoint. So keeping it away from that point is ideal.
Huh?Just notch them to overlap
With a 2x6? Half lapping the 2 width? Ha!! No way I have the equipment to attempt that.
I can do it for you. All it takes is a circular sawWith a 2x6? Half lapping the 2 width? Ha!! No way I have the equipment to attempt that.
If you’ve got a circ saw and a hammer, you e got the tools.With a 2x6? Half lapping the 2 width? Ha!! No way I have the equipment to attempt that.
I think the first one is a better option to leave a larger area to drill the hole.Actually it will look like this View attachment 254228
GreenHad a member come over today and we talked about it some more. Decided what I’d do is keep the X braces on the end, but move them up. Haven’t attached everything because I’m waiting on some new hardware to arrive tomorrow, but I mocked up the two ends and I can walk under the center of each X.
So the left & right sections will look like this:
View attachment 254702
I'm going to add a block in the middle with a bolt through the two braces, which it didn’t have (but I think should’ve have had) before. The last little decision is to decide if I go 45° (blue) from the hole I drilled in the two middle posts up to the deck, or if I take them all the way to the center (green) to meet but not overlap.
View attachment 254704
Whichever I decide, I’d do roughly the same angle from the two end posts towards the house. That’s adding two braces that aren’t already there. Just have to go up or down on the post a little so I don’t hit the bolt already there.
That’s what I was thinking. But instead of notching and overlapping, cut the ends at an angle so they meet each other in a vertical line.Green
I thought you were going to leave a space between them. If you angle the ends you will be making the ends weak where the bolts go throughThat’s what I was thinking. But instead of notching and overlapping, cut the ends at an angle so they meet each other in a vertical line.
or should I go with a single hole and the overlap?
I can do that, too...leave enough space that the lower corners touch and not cut any angle.I thought you were going to leave a space between them. If you angle the ends you will be making the ends weak where the bolts go through
I can walk under all three. Not close to the post, but at least in the center.Hopefully they ended up above head height! If not and your like me it will really piss you off when you walk into one and peel the skin off your head.
Nothing, yet...other than buying some Quikrete. Wanted to get the bracing done first so I only had to mix it once. Since the patio was poured after the deck was built, I had some areas around the other posts that will need to be filled in once I removed the braces that were basically at ground level. For example:@BigWaylon what did you do about the bottom of the posts?