Tried some grease in the G34 instead of oil

Jayne

Jayne

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Was cleaning the G34... ok we know that's a lie. Was knocking the big chunks of milspec wolf ammo residue out of the G34 and saw my little container of "pro gold lubricant" on the shelf. It's some sort of grease that they gave me to go on the O/U and it seems to do a nice job and stay put there so I thought I might try it on a semi-auto.

Used a q-tip to put a small amount on each contact surface just like I do with the oil. After 310 rounds more of the wolf nasty stuff this was what was left:


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Honestly that's not that bad. There is a lot of powder residue baked in, but there is also a bit of grease remaining. With oil it's pretty much gone after the first range session regardless of how few rounds are fired.

No idea how well or not it protects vs. the oil I've been using, but it seems like it could be better in that it's still actually on there vs. vanishing after the first few mags.
 
Jayne said:
There is a lot of powder residue baked in,
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I'm told that grease + powder residue = lapping compound. I have not had any problems myself but I don't shoot near the volume that you do. I'm interested in how this plays out.
 
I've been using grease over oil for years, especially on AL-framed funs. Doesn't dry out for a LONG time and even easier to clean.

And I think I've used maybe 1/2 of a 1.5oz jar over the years
 
my lube routine has always been ā€œspray liberally with CLPā€ and call it good.

After seeing so many pistols fail after going through a swim in muddy water at a recent event, Iā€™m considering grease.

Do you just lightly hit the wear spots? Where all do you grease your pistol?

What about an AR?
 
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Tim said:
my lube routine has always been ā€œspray liberally with CLPā€ and call it good.

After seeing so many pistols fail after going through a swim in muddy water at a recent event, Iā€™m considering grease.

Do you just lightly hit the wear spots? Where all do you grease your pistol?

What about an AR?
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I am mostly just CLP on AR's. either breakfree or breakthrough. I occasionally spread a really thin layer of grease on bolt and carrier along with the top of the charging handle, like once a year when I "deep clean".
 
One thing Iā€™ve noticed that might help people using, or considering, grease on pistols. I began having various failures on a 22 pistol. Giving it some thought, I concluded the greaseā€™s viscosity might be slowing the action to the point that weak 22 ammo couldnā€™t cycle it properly. Switching to oil on 22s solved that issue for me. I still grease all other pistols.
 
I use grease, but not like what is shown above. The TW25b stuff is synthetic. I use it on antique rifles, applied with an artist's paintbrush. It's thin enough to go everywhere, it's think enough to stay everywhere. When spread thin it doesn't hold powder anymore than oil does. Stays there over time too. I also put it on pistols.

The photo is of an HK I have stored in the safe that was last shot/cleaned/put up in like 2018. Grease is still there in the rail slots.

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Not sure how important the lubrication properties are for a Glock as thereā€™s so little steel-steel surface area to create resistance. However given the insane corrosion caused by my suburban dad sweat, Iā€™ve had to start using tw25b or Lucas grease on sweat-prone surfaces like hammer, rear of firing pin, firing pin blocks, decockers, etc. Grease there could theoretically cause binding but I use factory weight springs and havent had any issues. Without grease to protect from the water/salt, my CZ P07 slide internals will be fully rusted within about 2 weeks of summer carry.
 
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Jeppo said:
One thing Iā€™ve noticed that might help people using, or considering, grease on pistols. I began having various failures on a 22 pistol. Giving it some thought, I concluded the greaseā€™s viscosity might be slowing the action to the point that weak 22 ammo couldnā€™t cycle it properly. Switching to oil on 22s solved that issue for me. I still grease all other pistols.
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22 have always been ammo, cleanliness, and lubrication sensitive.
 
Something to compare to, I cleaned the grease off last night and oiled it for the match today. After the match, there is basically no trace of oil remaining:

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Wow those pictures are blurry... or my eyes are.
 
Catfish said:
I'm told that grease + powder residue = lapping compound. I have not had any problems myself but I don't shoot near the volume that you do. I'm interested in how this plays out.
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This sounds like bro science to me. Sounds good with no proof or anything to back it up.

Sig Legions, when they first came out, had some reputation for losing their paint job and showing the gold color underlying coat. Shortly after I got mine I switched to Sig-branded Lucas oil grease. After about 15k+ rounds my finish looked great.. Only a very few glimmers of gold showing on high wear spots. Grease hangs around longer. If it was creating a "lapping compound" it would have been all gold showing. I think a lot of these issues are obsessive gun cleaners. If you are shooting your guns hot and dirty with a high round count grease is king. Most people shoot a few hundred rounds a year or less, so for most people, it doesn't matter if you use oil or grease. But for those who shoot hundreds of rounds in a class or practice and get their guns really hot and dirty... grease em up.
 
Didnā€™t Glocks used to come with a grease-like stuff on the frame rails, stock from the factory? I seem to remember the rails with a copper colored stuff on the rails, kinda like Anti-Seize.

I read somewhere that if it rotates use oil. If it slides use grease. Iā€™ve always used just a dash of grease on rails of autos. RIG brand works great.
 
Just Tripp said:
Didnā€™t Glocks used to come with a grease-like stuff on the frame rails, stock from the factory?
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Yes, and it's curious that they don't sell that as some magic glock branded lube after the fact. Unless it's like break-in grease or something with grit?

Anyone own an unfired glock who can check and see if it's gritty?
 
I don't know how true it is, but have seen on a few forums that this is what Glock uses on new pistols.

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Team oil. Iā€™ve cleaned enough bicycle hubs and wheel bearings to know I want grease as far away from gritty crap as possible.

I will reapply oil as needed. It flows out of the gun, taking whatever is suspended in it, with it. Not a big deal. A little syringe thing of Hoppeā€™s oil lasts me about a year.
 
I don't shoot high-volume at one time, I have generally shot a box or two, quick cleaning, and left a light coat w/ BreakFree for all of my needs. I have no reason to change that, but I do have some unopened gun grease just in-case, lol.
 
Jmoser said:

ā€œOil if it turns, grease if it slidesā€​

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The roller on my M1A bolt disagrees.
It's good broad brush type advice, but not absolute. Some things are designed for grease.
 
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Tim said:
my lube routine has always been ā€œspray liberally with CLPā€ and call it good.

After seeing so many pistols fail after going through a swim in muddy water at a recent event, Iā€™m considering grease.

Do you just lightly hit the wear spots? Where all do you grease your pistol?

What about an AR?
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Iā€™ve used greases on my handguns with success. I had the same thought as you and tried it on my AR - worked well until the weather got cold. Seemed to make the bolt gummy and operate slower causing some feed issues. Who knows this wasnā€™t a scientific experiment and maybe I had too much grease or some other issue ?
 
Lubriplate 130-A Grease


Both rifles & pistols get lubed.

It is the grease originally designed and used on the M1 Garand combat rifle.
Cold temps do not affect this grease.
It is not messy if you apply it sparingly.
It also lasts a LONG time.

Ive used it on every gun I have in everytype of weather and climate.
It works better, longer than anything else I've tried.

From the humid, wet Carolina climate to the deserts of Arizona and everyplace in between,
it works best overall in my stuff.
 
BrettB said:
Iā€™ve used greases on my handguns with success. I had the same thought as you and tried it on my AR - worked well until the weather got cold. Seemed to make the bolt gummy and operate slower causing some feed issues. Who knows this wasnā€™t a scientific experiment and maybe I had too much grease or some other issue ?
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Your grease viscocity was too thick. A lighter viscocity grease wont do this in cold temps
 
AR10ShooterinNC said:
Grease is great until it gets cold. NC usually doesn't get cold enough to cause problems.
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Coldest I've used firearms that was lubed with grease was 0Ā°F with no issues (M4gery and a G19).

This is what I use and highly recommend it.

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In addition to items mentioned above, I use Slip2000 for oil and insanely expensive Krytox (made by a company spun-off from DuPont) for older S&W pistol barrel lugs (tiny amount as recommended by a highly respected gunsmith).

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I shoot glocks. I know this is weird but but I give them a 10 minute clean job after every range session/match/class. I use slip 2000ewl on rails, barrel, the connector gets slip 2000 ewl grease. Iā€™ve never had it turn to lapping compound even after several high round count classes.
 
I use TW25B for the rails, outer barrel and barrel hood, it's thin grease that doesn't migrate out of the gun when you carry it.
A drop of oil on the hammer hooks and disconnector.
 
smm72 said:
I shoot glocks. I know this is weird but but I give them a 10 minute clean job after every range session/match/class. I use slip 2000ewl on rails, barrel, the connector gets slip 2000 ewl grease. Iā€™ve never had it turn to lapping compound even after several high round count classes.
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I also maintain a log of each pistol with rd count. I change rsa and fp springs every 5k rds. Complete spring change every 10k rds. Mags are numbered, all this assists me if thereā€™s an issue.
Thatā€™s just what I do
 
+1 for grease. I donā€™t know if there is any logic behind it, but long ago when I first started with mil surps I was taught if it slides grease it, if it rolls oil it.
 
If I shoot a gun a lot I use a lot of Slideglide.
Lugs, rails, contact points, barrel, etc.
When I reinstall slide it oozes out and I wipe it off. Then I shoot toe crap out of it. When I feel gun getting sluggish (which becomes apparent with the 9lb spring), I take down gun and wipe off the SG and all the gunk goes with it. Clean as a whistle. I then reapply.
My CZ TSO was very tight when I got it. Fitted and polished internals. After tens of thousands of rounds, it is still nice and tight and almost no visible wear on the interior parts. It runs amazing and very smooth as always.
I use this product on ARs for some areas as well. I use it very sparingly on my carry Glocks. Mainly a dab on slide contact points.
I use Mobile One for everything else.

Edit: slide glide available in different viscosities as well, for different temps.
 
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