Tuning the AR gas system.

C-doodle

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just ordered a superlative clamp on style adjustable gas block. This will be my first time trying to dial in an over gassed AR.

i was wondering, is there any advantage to a heavy buffer in a rifle that already has an adjustable gas system? I have a few different heavy buffers but it seams like they will be a pointless addition of weight after installing the gas block.

is there an advantage to heavy buffers that I am not aware of? I'm figuring I'll probably just go back to a standard carbine buffer before I tune the new gas block. Unless y'all learn me a new reason to use a heavier one.

thanks.
 
I'm not a guru, but i can offer another variable the buffer can affect.

The H2 buffer was spec'd over the H1 for those M4s with the heavier SOCOM barrel profile. The reason was to eliminate bolt bounce in full auto.
 
That makes sense. I figured there would be other advantages I just don't know what they are.
 
could hydraulic or spring buffers be another solution?
 
could hydraulic or spring buffers be another solution?
A5 length buffer system, Tubb FW spring plus hydraulic buffer is the smoothest setup I've ever run on a full auto M16. I still think one should reduce the gas if the barrel is really over gassed to start with.
 
I don't know my gas port diameter. It gobbles up tula .223 with an h2 buffer though and feels a little rougher then I think it should. It also seams to get really dirty really fast.
 
Yeah it is nasty stuff. It seams like it gets dirtier then it should with better ammo too. I've run a fair amount of 193 and 855 thru it before prices went crazy. I was more so using tula and wolf as a benchmark for weak loads.
 
This is a long debated topic thatā€™s been going on as long as the AR platform has been around, so Iā€™ll give my opinion and share my results, we do have actual armors and professional shooters on here that could explain it far better than I could.

First off, youā€™ll find 500 different opinions on the subject, so take what Iā€™m saying with a grain of salt, my experience is based around tuning my guns to be 100% reliable with any ammo I feed it, not suppressed, and if I was running a suppressor Iā€™d do things a little differently.

As it was mentioned above the heavier buffers were introduced to solve the issue of ā€œbolt bounceā€, this is done by slowing the cyclic rate of the action by making the rearward movement of the BCG slower, this is primarily a full auto issue, but the science is the same on a semi auto, slowing the rearward movement of the BCG when the rifle cycles will also tone down the ā€œthumpā€ you feel in your shoulder, but the buffer alone doesnā€™t make a difference I can personally feel, but when combined with an adjustable gas block and a good brake/compensator you can get a carbine to shoot incredibly ā€œflatā€ which will allow for faster follow up shots.

Iā€™ve seen more than one person install so many ā€œadjustableā€ gadgets and super whiz bang magic springs that they managed to do nothing more than turn the AR into a single shot rifle, they would have things tuned perfectly with spicific ammo on a warm summer day to only find out that things didnā€™t work when itā€™s 20Ā° colder outside, so every couple of range trips they had to spend time ā€œtuningā€ their rifles, screw that noise lol.

I basically have a standard buffer spring, H2 buffers, adjustable gas blocks and decent brakes on all of my ARs, Iā€™ll buy a box or two of the cheapest ā€œbulk packā€ .223 or Russian .223 and tune the gun with that, if it will shoot mouse fart loads, itā€™ll shoot nearly anything and still cycle perfectly , yes I do lose some of the effectiveness of the tuning, but my rifles still shoot night and day different than an untuned carbines, basically my carbines recoil about like shooting a 20ā€ rifle but ā€œflatterā€ if that makes sense.

Every ā€œnewā€ AR owner that has shot my ARs after shooting theirs canā€™t believe the difference and immediately want to start ā€œupgradingā€ their guns, then I spend 2 weeks telling them to NOT buy a bunch of useless crap lmao, itā€™s a double edged sword sometimes.
 
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I was planning on doing something similar. Just hadn't decided if I wanted to do it with one of the heavier buffers. I plan to tune it to run wolf or tula .223 then just leave it alone. I'm probably going to go with a standard carbine buffer though as it's a rifle I wanted to keep fairly light.
 
I was planning on doing something similar. Just hadn't decided if I wanted to do it with one of the heavier buffers. I plan to tune it to run wolf or tula .223 then just leave it alone. I'm probably going to go with a standard carbine buffer though as it's a rifle I wanted to keep fairly light.

If running Tula or most inexpensive 55gr, you can go with a much lighter buffer. I'd remove the weights from the carbine buffer and use that. Pointless to use an H2.

Then adjust gas slowly open until it locks open on an empty mag. Do this by loading one round, shooting it, and open gas until open enough to lock back. Ejection should be right around 3:30-4:00 oclock.

Just keep the chamber clean as steel cases do not fireform to chamber wall like brass does, letting lots of crap by. Just my opinions.
 
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Id be interested to try out a well tuned AR. I'm not big into them, so my go rifle is a 14.5" carbine gas with standard bcg, fixed gas, and H2. It works. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø
 
To OP, what is your intent?

Race gun, or dependable?

"Overgassed", to a certain extent, is better than undergassed and having a FTF/FTE

My $.02

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My intent is long term reliability with an education on the side.

I'm hoping to make a nice smooth shooter when running crap steel case .223. my assumption is that it should still be over gassed when I feed it fair quality 5.56. Right?

I also just like to mess with stuff and I learn best by doing.
 
Id be interested to try out a well tuned AR. I'm not big into them, so my go rifle is a 14.5" carbine gas with standard bcg, fixed gas, and H2. It works. šŸ¤·ā€ā™‚ļø
We need to go to the range. ;)

I took my suppressed 10.5ā€ 5.56 rifle to some training with Apex. It was probably an hour into it (and this is a 1:1 lesson, so heā€™s paying attention) when he finally asked what caliber it was. Heā€™d assumed it was 300BLK all along.

AGB turned down so it wonā€™t even cycle without the can. Very pleasant to shoot.
 
My intent is long term reliability with an education on the side.

I'm hoping to make a nice smooth shooter when running crap steel case .223. my assumption is that it should still be over gassed when I feed it fair quality 5.56. Right?

I also just like to mess with stuff and I learn best by doing.
My $0.02-yes, better over than under.

My experience, if you chase after the "softest", trying to run suppressed and non-suppressed, is akin to chasing Salma Hayek (sorry, can't think of anything else better)!

Run it for ejection for 3-4 without a can as mentioned above.

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