Scrubber3
Well-Known Member
Use whatever you have laying around that is supposed to be able lubricate. Lucas, millitec, motor oil, CLP. It doesn't matter as much as people like to think it does. Just don't use that dry lube stuff. It's garbage.
I pretty much agree. There is nothing really that special about "normal" every day firearms that require anything other than a good quality lubricant. And there are so many on the market that you can find most anywhere under many different brand names. But you know how people are. Gotta have their cooking oil and lard or whatever.Use whatever you have laying around that is supposed to be able lubricate. Lucas, millitec, motor oil, CLP. It doesn't matter as much as people like to think it does. Just don't use that dry lube stuff. It's garbage.
+1 for Corrosion-XI like Corrosion X, and the Lucas products, for most things. But for the BCG in my AR, I like Strike Hold. It seems to do a good job lubricating and protecting, but does not attract carbon and dirt like other lubes.
Amazon.com : Strike Hold 8oz Gun Oil and Cleaner - CLP Gun Cleaner and Lubricant - Gun Cleaning Solvent Spray - Gun Cleaning Oil - Gun Lube Oil - Gun Lubricant - Gun Solvent - Gun Oil Spray - Gun Oil Bottle : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products
Amazon.com : Strike Hold 8oz Gun Oil and Cleaner - CLP Gun Cleaner and Lubricant - Gun Cleaning Solvent Spray - Gun Cleaning Oil - Gun Lube Oil - Gun Lubricant - Gun Solvent - Gun Oil Spray - Gun Oil Bottle : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & Outdoorswww.amazon.com
I would generally agree, if you're going to maintain the gun with fresh lube and are not operating in extremes environments. As mentioned, some can freeze and others can gum or attract dirt or simply evaporate off. But, if you're keeping it clean and freshly lubed in normal environments, most anything will work.Use whatever you have laying around that is supposed to be able lubricate. Lucas, millitec, motor oil, CLP. It doesn't matter as much as people like to think it does. Just don't use that dry lube stuff. It's garbage.
Thats the real thing to keep in mind, in "Normal" use and in the case of well maintained weapons really any decent oil can certainly work.... its just some things work better in certain situations, and conditions.I would generally agree, if you're going to maintain the gun with fresh lube and are not operating in extremes environments. As mentioned, some can freeze and others can gum or attract dirt or simply evaporate off. But, if you're keeping it clean and freshly lubed in normal environments, most anything will work.
I prefer real butter myself. None of that artificial stuff.Thats the real thing to keep in mind, in "Normal" use and in the case of well maintained weapons really any decent oil can certainly work.... its just some things work better in certain situations, and conditions.
Sometimes just keeping something oiled regardless of how dirty it is can keep it running, I remember seeing someone lube an AR-15 with margarine. Just prove a point that keeping it wet would keep it going.
Yep, I used BreakFree in the service 35 years ago - and they're still using it. Good enough for me and my firearms.Guess I'm old school, lol. Been using it 40yrs. Got a big enough jug to last me 40 more....
Yes, I lub my guns. And whether or not I use butter is a personal matter.Now I see the guy that lubs his gun with butter is on MY " our "side. God help us all.
Was wondering if anyone else used Ballistol......I like Weaponshield, but generally I just use Ballistol on everything. BCGs, frames, stocks, knives, tools, toast, toothpaste, anger issues...
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I use ballistol on old bolt actions. Cleans and lubes very well.Was wondering if anyone else used Ballistol......
I didnt say *I* did, just that someone used margarine to prove a point.There is a Raging battle going on. See it or not. Gun rights, second amendment rights are the beginning, or maybe the end of it. Anyway our freedoms are at stake. I don't know. But Now I see the guy that lubs his gun with butter is on MY " our "side. God help us all.
I've used weirder stuff for lube.I didnt say *I* did, just that someone used margarine to prove a point.
Ive no doubt whatsoever...I've used weirder stuff for lube.
Ive no doubt whatsoever...
Care to share some notable ones?
I've used bacon grease, A&D ointment and Bacitracin in the field until other options are procured. Whipping out a bottle of CLP is boring and far too easy.
They all work better than nothing for limited engagements. [emoji1787]
Think positive.I purchased a gallon of Break Free at the end of the 20th century. Still got some left and no rust. Probably only get a half gallon next time.
I remember getting powdered PTFE in a small squeeze bottle with a long metal needle applicator. Needle kept getting clogged. And when it worked, the power was so fine, I was worried about breathing it in. If you like PTFE based lubricants, try Mil-Comm TW25B. It's basically all I use. I might have a sample here somewhere. Expensive? Yes. But, I use it very sparingly. A little goes an looo...ong way. I have a 1oz tube that's lasted forever.I can’t say if it’s good or not, but for pistols I’ve been trying very little oil, brushing it on, and then dusting with straight powdered PTFE. They run great and feel like they clean easier, but I’m not sure that I trust my observations. Need to setup two identical guns and try comparing with ve without the ptfe.
When I built my first AR I bought something like a 5lb can of aeroshell 33 (I think 33), wonder where that’s gotten to.
About greases, there are a couple different chemical bases for them and they are not compatible. If you don’t know what you have and are going to something new, best to clean off the old grease.
YesAeroshell, was that used as anti-seize on the receiver/barrel nut threads?
As long as it works, then your chances of walking away from an engagement increases.I've used bacon grease, A&D ointment and Bacitracin in the field until other options are procured. Whipping out a bottle of CLP is boring and far too easy.
They all work better than nothing for limited engagements. 🤣
Looking at the model number it appears to be a form of black moly grease... if im reading the model number right.Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.
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Yeah, it was so crazy expensive that I bought a similar viscosity without the Moly.Looking at the model number it appears to be a form of black moly grease... if im reading the model number right.
Eye popping expensive, that is. O_OYeah, it was so crazy expensive that I bought a similar viscosity without the Moly.
My God. Just looked it up on Amazon.That tube cost near as much as my gun. I can afford the lube or I can afford the gun. But Both?? Thanks, But No Thanks.Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.
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I’ll trade you a tube for your gun. 😂My God. Just looked it up on Amazon.That tube cost near as much as my gun. I can afford the lube or I can afford the gun. But Both?? Thanks, But No Thanks.
I trade you the gun for the tube Then I want have anything to lube😒I’ll trade you a tube for your gun. 😂
Actually, I have a couple unopened 2 Oz. tubes of GPL-207. Same viscosity as the 217 he uses. You can have one for $25 if you’re interested. I believe this is the way to go for ANY metal framed guns and all I use on those.
When I dribble, I need something safe for denim.Ballistol is supposed to be safe on wood, leather and plastic (in case you dribble).
+2 for Corrosion X. I've been using that stuff for years, mostly in the colder seasons. Just a dab'll do ya.+1 for Corrosion-X
A little goes a looong way! Looking it up, a 2oz tube's pricing is between $28 to $756!Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.
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The one we had is white. We, and our top competitor were using a thick moly grease on the spline drives, it was failing within 30 days.In searching for Krytox, seems there are many different versions of it. GPL207 and GPL217 seem to be similar in viscosity, but GPL217 has molybdenum disulfide added to it.
Yup. I went with the 207 and have been more than satisfied. I’ll renew the offer to sell some for $25/tube.In searching for Krytox, seems there are many different versions of it. GPL207 and GPL217 seem to be similar in viscosity, but GPL217 has molybdenum disulfide added to it.