Lubricants

Scrubber3 said:
Use whatever you have laying around that is supposed to be able lubricate. Lucas, millitec, motor oil, CLP. It doesn't matter as much as people like to think it does. Just don't use that dry lube stuff. It's garbage.
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I pretty much agree. There is nothing really that special about "normal" every day firearms that require anything other than a good quality lubricant. And there are so many on the market that you can find most anywhere under many different brand names. But you know how people are. Gotta have their cooking oil and lard or whatever.
 
Toprudder said:
I like Corrosion X, and the Lucas products, for most things. But for the BCG in my AR, I like Strike Hold. It seems to do a good job lubricating and protecting, but does not attract carbon and dirt like other lubes.

Amazon.com : Strike Hold 8oz Gun Oil and Cleaner - CLP Gun Cleaner and Lubricant - Gun Cleaning Solvent Spray - Gun Cleaning Oil - Gun Lube Oil - Gun Lubricant - Gun Solvent - Gun Oil Spray - Gun Oil Bottle : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products

Amazon.com : Strike Hold 8oz Gun Oil and Cleaner - CLP Gun Cleaner and Lubricant - Gun Cleaning Solvent Spray - Gun Cleaning Oil - Gun Lube Oil - Gun Lubricant - Gun Solvent - Gun Oil Spray - Gun Oil Bottle : Hunting Cleaning And Maintenance Products : Sports & Outdoors
www.amazon.com
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+1 for Corrosion-X
 
Scrubber3 said:
Use whatever you have laying around that is supposed to be able lubricate. Lucas, millitec, motor oil, CLP. It doesn't matter as much as people like to think it does. Just don't use that dry lube stuff. It's garbage.
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I would generally agree, if you're going to maintain the gun with fresh lube and are not operating in extremes environments. As mentioned, some can freeze and others can gum or attract dirt or simply evaporate off. But, if you're keeping it clean and freshly lubed in normal environments, most anything will work.
 
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georgel said:
I would generally agree, if you're going to maintain the gun with fresh lube and are not operating in extremes environments. As mentioned, some can freeze and others can gum or attract dirt or simply evaporate off. But, if you're keeping it clean and freshly lubed in normal environments, most anything will work.
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Thats the real thing to keep in mind, in "Normal" use and in the case of well maintained weapons really any decent oil can certainly work.... its just some things work better in certain situations, and conditions.

Sometimes just keeping something oiled regardless of how dirty it is can keep it running, I remember seeing someone lube an AR-15 with margarine. Just prove a point that keeping it wet would keep it going.
 
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Desolo said:
Thats the real thing to keep in mind, in "Normal" use and in the case of well maintained weapons really any decent oil can certainly work.... its just some things work better in certain situations, and conditions.

Sometimes just keeping something oiled regardless of how dirty it is can keep it running, I remember seeing someone lube an AR-15 with margarine. Just prove a point that keeping it wet would keep it going.
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I prefer real butter myself. None of that artificial stuff.

iu
 
There is a Raging battle going on. See it or not. Gun rights, second amendment rights are the beginning, or maybe the end of it. Anyway our freedoms are at stake. I don't know. But Now I see the guy that lubs his gun with butter is on MY " our "side. God help us all.
 
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tws3b2 said:
Now I see the guy that lubs his gun with butter is on MY " our "side. God help us all.
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Yes, I lub my guns. And whether or not I use butter is a personal matter.
 
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I purchased a gallon of Break Free at the end of the 20th century. Still got some left and no rust. Probably only get a half gallon next time.
 
tws3b2 said:
There is a Raging battle going on. See it or not. Gun rights, second amendment rights are the beginning, or maybe the end of it. Anyway our freedoms are at stake. I don't know. But Now I see the guy that lubs his gun with butter is on MY " our "side. God help us all.
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I didnt say *I* did, just that someone used margarine to prove a point. ;)
 
Desolo said:
Ive no doubt whatsoever...

Care to share some notable ones?
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I've used bacon grease, A&D ointment and Bacitracin in the field until other options are procured. Whipping out a bottle of CLP is boring and far too easy.

They all work better than nothing for limited engagements. 🤣
 
Johnny said:
I've used bacon grease, A&D ointment and Bacitracin in the field until other options are procured. Whipping out a bottle of CLP is boring and far too easy.

They all work better than nothing for limited engagements. [emoji1787]
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A&D…man…love that stuff. Reminds me of getting my tattoo as that’s what they said to use on it.


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I can’t say if it’s good or not, but for pistols I’ve been trying very little oil, brushing it on, and then dusting with straight powdered PTFE. They run great and feel like they clean easier, but I’m not sure that I trust my observations. Need to setup two identical guns and try comparing with ve without the ptfe.

When I built my first AR I bought something like a 5lb can of aeroshell 33 (I think 33), wonder where that’s gotten to.

About greases, there are a couple different chemical bases for them and they are not compatible. If you don’t know what you have and are going to something new, best to clean off the old grease.
 
Bahamadon said:
I purchased a gallon of Break Free at the end of the 20th century. Still got some left and no rust. Probably only get a half gallon next time.
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Think positive.

Buy another gallon. ;)
 
JimB said:
I can’t say if it’s good or not, but for pistols I’ve been trying very little oil, brushing it on, and then dusting with straight powdered PTFE. They run great and feel like they clean easier, but I’m not sure that I trust my observations. Need to setup two identical guns and try comparing with ve without the ptfe.

When I built my first AR I bought something like a 5lb can of aeroshell 33 (I think 33), wonder where that’s gotten to.

About greases, there are a couple different chemical bases for them and they are not compatible. If you don’t know what you have and are going to something new, best to clean off the old grease.
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I remember getting powdered PTFE in a small squeeze bottle with a long metal needle applicator. Needle kept getting clogged. And when it worked, the power was so fine, I was worried about breathing it in. If you like PTFE based lubricants, try Mil-Comm TW25B. It's basically all I use. I might have a sample here somewhere. Expensive? Yes. But, I use it very sparingly. A little goes an looo...ong way. I have a 1oz tube that's lasted forever.

TW25B®｜Top Selling Extreme Performance Lubricant｜Synthetic Grease

TW25B® synthetic grease lubricant reduces friction on working parts, penetrating metal surfaces & leaving a semi-dry film for smooth functioning & extended life.
mil-comm.com mil-comm.com



Aeroshell, was that used as anti-seize on the receiver/barrel nut threads?
 
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Johnny said:
I've used bacon grease, A&D ointment and Bacitracin in the field until other options are procured. Whipping out a bottle of CLP is boring and far too easy.

They all work better than nothing for limited engagements. 🤣
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As long as it works, then your chances of walking away from an engagement increases.

You might be walking funny, but at least you are walking away. :) Or so I have heard.
 
Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.

508FCEA5-222D-477D-A090-CC4BD3EE39CC.jpegB258B7D4-22F4-4115-8278-AA27E0E0D247.jpeg
 
Jeppo said:
Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.

View attachment 352764View attachment 352765
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Looking at the model number it appears to be a form of black moly grease... if im reading the model number right.
 
Desolo said:
Looking at the model number it appears to be a form of black moly grease... if im reading the model number right.
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Yeah, it was so crazy expensive that I bought a similar viscosity without the Moly.
 
Jeppo said:
Yeah, it was so crazy expensive that I bought a similar viscosity without the Moly.
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Eye popping expensive, that is. O_O

Id be interested in knowing what it does for the application, that makes it worth it... seems to be very specialized.
 
Jeppo said:
Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.

View attachment 352764View attachment 352765
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My God. Just looked it up on Amazon.That tube cost near as much as my gun. I can afford the lube or I can afford the gun. But Both?? Thanks, But No Thanks.
 
tws3b2 said:
My God. Just looked it up on Amazon.That tube cost near as much as my gun. I can afford the lube or I can afford the gun. But Both?? Thanks, But No Thanks.
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I’ll trade you a tube for your gun. 😂

Actually, I have a couple unopened 2 Oz. tubes of GPL-207. Same viscosity as the 217 he uses. You can have one for $25 if you’re interested. I believe this is the way to go for ANY metal framed guns and all I use on those.

15842B9F-817C-45B7-B1B5-734F3375CEC3.jpeg
 
Jeppo said:
I’ll trade you a tube for your gun. 😂

Actually, I have a couple unopened 2 Oz. tubes of GPL-207. Same viscosity as the 217 he uses. You can have one for $25 if you’re interested. I believe this is the way to go for ANY metal framed guns and all I use on those.
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I trade you the gun for the tube Then I want have anything to lube😒
 
For my first firearms as a child. I used Hoppe's. Still love it and still works just fine.

Then I went down the rabbit hole of "too much, not enough"....

I was honestly satisfied/happy with frog lube for a while😑 But then I was running an freshly lubed at home .22lr revolver on a below freezing day. It sat on the bench for a while before picking it up. That thing was "gummed up" so bad it freaked me out. Blew a bunch of a buddies clp through it. It worked like always. Deep cleaned that stuff out asap...

Freaking coconut oil works great as a natural alternative to astroglide. Warmer it gets, slicker it is👍. No good for a cold firearm...

My next venture was buying into the ALG lube and light grease... Quite happy with both. They do the job well.

But I've since gone into atf as a cleaner when needed and leftover unused motor oil as a lube. I have acidic skin it seems. But if I dump a blued item in the oil and leave it until I remember. The action stays smooth and forgetting to wipe off everything I touch instantly, doesn't result in rust..
 
Ballistol is supposed to be safe on wood, leather and plastic (in case you dribble).
 
Jeppo said:
Here’s something that hasn’t been mentioned. A gunsmith who is extremely competent in old S&W semiautos recommends a special and crazy expensive lubricant for the barrel lugs and corresponding frame contact points of those guns. A tiny dot (he mentions between poppy and sesame seed sized) on each of the four points. If you use this stuff on your slide, the gun won’t run because of the viscosity.

View attachment 352764View attachment 352765
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A little goes a looong way! Looking it up, a 2oz tube's pricing is between $28 to $756!
Mine is ~8 years old, and no thicker than axle grease. Ford was using it as a recall repair for new car sunroofs that were binding. The fix was a thin smear on the weatherstripping. It's mostly Teflon. https://www.krytox.com/en
20210712_073712.jpg

We were experiencing motor to hydraulic pump spline failure on heavily used machines. Technicians from FL to NC were running tests with every quality lube we could find. Tom-Pac is by far the most impressive. We were pulling the pumps monthly to clean and lube splines, now they separate by their own weight once a year. On machines that run 600 hours a month, after 3 years there's no noticeable wear now.
20210712_075705.jpg

TP-2557 Bearing Gel (High Temperature grease), 14oz cartridge – Tom-Pac Inc.

tom-pac.com tom-pac.com
 
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Once upon a time, we used Krytox for the tripod joints (similarish to cv joints) on ovals. Magically they stopped blowing up, zero evidence of overheating, was a suitable band-aid when a redesign wasnt feasible or possible.
 
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In searching for Krytox, seems there are many different versions of it. GPL207 and GPL217 seem to be similar in viscosity, but GPL217 has molybdenum disulfide added to it.
 
Toprudder said:
In searching for Krytox, seems there are many different versions of it. GPL207 and GPL217 seem to be similar in viscosity, but GPL217 has molybdenum disulfide added to it.
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The one we had is white. We, and our top competitor were using a thick moly grease on the spline drives, it was failing within 30 days.
 
Toprudder said:
In searching for Krytox, seems there are many different versions of it. GPL207 and GPL217 seem to be similar in viscosity, but GPL217 has molybdenum disulfide added to it.
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Yup. I went with the 207 and have been more than satisfied. I’ll renew the offer to sell some for $25/tube.
 
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