Chainsaws - let’s see em.

Hell yeah !! Nice. Late 70s very early 80s model

Surprised it had gas in it, the grommet in the tank usely goes bad and leaks all the fuel out.
Give it a clean, get it running, hearing protection is a must.

That's good to know, I'll be sure to check it.

.
 
I think I’m about to try a neotec saw. Anyone dealt with one?
 
I think I’m about to try a neotec saw. Anyone dealt with one?

Depends on models from what I have seen, popular models are best to stay with. They are supposedly same as farmertec with little bit better finish and rubber parts. I have a dealers name for both I can give you if you dont want to go direct or need it. My couple farmertec’s I have got used a good bit and still going strong at this point and wouldnt be scared of another. Few minor things to fix or mess with but great value in them if you know how to tinker or adjust a saw. I have the g660 and g111 (200t) clone if you want to check them out. Just takes a while to get one if you order direct with shipping the way it is and reason i paid a little more with my second and went threw the dealer as he had stock.
 
Depends on models from what I have seen, popular models are best to stay with. They are supposedly same as farmertec with little bit better finish and rubber parts. I have a dealers name for both I can give you if you dont want to go direct or need it. My couple farmertec’s I have got used a good bit and still going strong at this point and wouldnt be scared of another. Few minor things to fix or mess with but great value in them if you know how to tinker or adjust a saw. I have the g660 and g111 (200t) clone if you want to check them out. Just takes a while to get one if you order direct with shipping the way it is and reason i paid a little more with my second and went threw the dealer as he had stock.
I can get the neotec 892 which is supposed to be a clone of the stihl 660 on Amazon with a 36” bar for 469. Thinking of getting it just to cut slabs out of logs
 
I can get the neotec 892 which is supposed to be a clone of the stihl 660 on Amazon with a 360 bar for 469. Thinking of getting it just to cut slabs out of logs

Check with this guy he is a straight shooter and has messed with both brands, he is the one I got the second farmertec from. He was starting to lean toward the neotec side more last I spoke with him because of some rubber parts seemed better but he had best prices stateside and moves a bunch dealerwise. The 660 clones been around the longest and pretty soild from both brands. I did buy different bars as they were not offering but few bars when I got mine and getting mixed reviews so I got name brand of those. The base 660 farmertec looks to be in the $340-360 range without the bar and shipping on included on the farmertec site depending what handle setup you want just to give you something to compare price wise. Either will need a carb adjustment when you get it as they are all set super rich but not hard and a big portion of the bad wrap they get I have seen. Part for part though if something breaks you just pick up a oem and it will bolt right up.

 
Last edited:
Check with this guy he is a straight shooter and has messed with both brands, he is the one I got the second farmertec from. He was starting to lean toward the neotec side more last I spoke with him because of some rubber parts seemed better but he had best prices stateside and moves a bunch dealerwise. The 660 clones been around the longest and pretty soild from both brands. I did buy different bars as they were not offering but few bars when I got mine and getting mixed reviews so I got name brand of those. The base 660 farmertec looks to be in the $340-360 range without the bar and shipping on included on the farmertec site depending what handle setup you want just to give you something to compare price wise. Either will need a carb adjustment when you get it as they are all set super rich but not hard and a big portion of the bad wrap they get I have seen. Part for part though if something breaks you just pick up a oem and it will bolt right up.

Tagged
 
First new saw I’ve. Bought since 1982 or so.
The old MacCulough started leaking gas again and I don’t want to mess with just right now.

View attachment 611183
I saw that and had to double take because Stihl colours are really 2010 Nerf colours lol
 
No pictures but I run a late model Husqvarna 550XP with the autotune function. Pretty pleased with it. I run a 16 or 18” bar.
 
OK. Then that’s a water feed through the oiling system in order to cool the cutting surfaces and flush out the dust. Pretty interesting.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Me.
Nothing special as y’all can see but I got it for 183 OTD at Harbor freight with some coupons. Only issue was I had to make a tool to idle it up on day one. Nit a single issue since then

D0DAF7A9-B0A6-49D3-972B-98AAE400F251.png
 
There is a liquidation store in Gibsonville near their public works office that deals almost exclusively in Home Depot returns. My BIL git an Echo chainsaw there that looked like it had been run to cut up a small tree for over $100 less than new from the store. It hadn't even been used enough to show wear on the bar.

They have a bunch of Milwaukee and Dewalt tools as well as furniture. I'll try to ride by there and get the name, but I wanted a placeholder so I wouldn't forget. I'm hoping yo stop by soon to see if they still ha e some Dewalt polesaws since I have a need for one now.

It is on Sprinwood Church Rd in the same strip mall as this place:

Screenshot_20230523_091639_Maps.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Me.
Hey there, men… I need help figuring out which file size I need for my chain.

1994 Husqvarna 36. 16”

From the manual:

View attachment 624121

View attachment 624122View attachment 624125


How can I tell which chain is on my saw?
bottom line of your first pic shows "thickness of drive link" 1.5mm. That tells me you should use the 34SL/LG chain in the last picture. 16" bar gives you 66 drive links per the last picture. 4.5mm file.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Me.
No photos on hand because if it’s out it’s getting worked and I’m not snapping pics…

IMG_1441.jpeg

My go to saw is a Stihl 362 with a 20” bar and the aggro Shtil chain. 15 years and haven’t changed the air filter (blew it off with compressed air a few times) or spark plug. Been running Stihl synthetic mix mostly but have been using some Motorex mixed fuel when I have leftovers from riding the KTM two stroke.

The 362 bites the wallet initially but I’ve not been disappointed once. I use it to process firewood to keep my family warm. 15 plus years plus without a hiccup.

Before that I had a Husky 388 xp lite and it gave me 10-12 years hiccup free, but when the flywheel started to spit fins off I got frustrated. A new flywheel was going to cost me over $500. And to boot it was for another saw and they said it should work but no guarantee. I politely told the lady I’d never buy a Husky again.
 
Last edited:
Finally remembered to take a picture.

Cleaning up some downed branches and stuff. Nothing crazy. Two or three years ago, I used it to help my brother cut up some white oak he had taken down. Only one piece we couldn't cut was 46"

KIMG2823.JPG
 
Is the bar flipped for a practical purpose, like longevity or even wear?
Almost every time I sharpen or change chains, the bar gets flipped. Yes it’s for even wear and longevity of the bar. Heck, I’ve got crappy bar/chain combos I keep around for cutting the nasty jobs with dirt/rocks etc. After if cut whatever, I will swap bar and chain out to start bucking it up.
 
Last edited:
Have a little Stihl MS 171 that does 99% of the cutting I would need/like to do. However, I just picked up a Stihl MS 661 and the Alaskan Mill is on the way. I am getting serious about woodworking and I just think it will be neat to grow my skillset and be able to tell my kids/family that pieces of furniture/coops/pens/etc were built by me with wood taken from our land. The little Stihl has been phenomenal. But man, that big saw is BIG, 21 pound powerhead and a 32" bar.
 
Back
Top Bottom