What Did You Do In The Garage Today?

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Dropped my 04 Silverado off at the shop last night since I didn't have the time or patience to diagnose the misfire. They thought they had it figured out with two cylinder misfires - replaced the coils and ran better, until it didn't. Put the two bad coils on other cylinders, they ran fine. Fuel rail pressure looks good, all other diagnostics coming back fine. We're scratching our heads collectively. They're wondering if there may be trash in two of the injectors, but I would have figured more than two injectors would be impacted. Plus, they ran a pressure drop test on each injector, and they all came back within spec. What the heck? Now I'm wondering if there isn't a coil harness issue, or something going on with the ECU.
 
rdinatal said:
Ground wire...

(has this been floated yet?)
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Are you talking engine grounds? I'd be surprised if it was confined to the same two cylinders if that was the case, though its an easy thing to check.
 
Supermatch said:
Dropped my 04 Silverado off at the shop last night since I didn't have the time or patience to diagnose the misfire. They thought they had it figured out with two cylinder misfires - replaced the coils and ran better, until it didn't. Put the two bad coils on other cylinders, they ran fine. Fuel rail pressure looks good, all other diagnostics coming back fine. We're scratching our heads collectively. They're wondering if there may be trash in two of the injectors, but I would have figured more than two injectors would be impacted. Plus, they ran a pressure drop test on each injector, and they all came back within spec. What the heck? Now I'm wondering if there isn't a coil harness issue, or something going on with the ECU.
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What two cylinders ?
 
Is it a dod motor?

Cancel that. You said 04.
 
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rdinatal said:
There has to be a return wire that's common to those cylinders.
(just spit balling...)
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Strangely enough, I don't think there are. Odd cylinders even go to one fused circuit and the evens to a second circuit. Each bank has its own reference ground, and the grounds are tied together for each pair of four injectors.
 
Pogue said:
These are getting as common as hemi motor jobs. 3.6 oil coolers. Owner thought it was a rear main seal. Didn’t want to believe all that oil was coming from the valley till I showed him.

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Just did one on my daughters car, 2017 Dodge Journey. Went back with an all metal one. Ope I don’t have to do it again.
 
Pogue said:
These are getting as common as hemi motor jobs. 3.6 oil coolers. Owner thought it was a rear main seal. Didn’t want to believe all that oil was coming from the valley till I showed him.

View attachment 734706
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Yeps,, saw this is a LOT . Takes about 2.5 quarts of oil to fill the valley till it pukes all down the back of the engine. Kinda hard to diagnose unless you know what to look for on these engines.
 
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So my Silverado ended up having trash in the injectors. They cleaned the injectors out, replaced two plugs that got fuel soaked while troubleshooting, and its running smoothly.

Except... on the drive home, I pulled up to a traffic light, glanced at the dash, and saw the temperature needle up around the 230-240 mark. Needle has always been dead nuts at 210 previously. What the heck? As soon as I started to drive away, it dropped to 210 and stayed there. Traffic light, on throttle, off throttle, uphill, downhill, idling in the driveway, no change... just sat at 210.

Go to take the truck out today to observe behavior. Start it up, begin driving, a few miles away it creeps back up to 240 ish, pull into the parts store parking lot, and as soon as I'm back at idle, drops to 210. Cooled off to about 180 while in the store, start it up again, drive home, solid as a rock at 210 again.

I'm thinking thermostat is sticking shut for some reason and then opening late, or the dash/gauge is reading wrong. I ordered a t-stat and reservoir cap to play it safe and will top off the coolant when I go to replace it. OBD reader is showing gauge accurately matching temps, at least at idle (holding 208-214). Fan clutch stops spinning right after you turn the key off and not freewheeling. Anything else I might be missing?
 
Supermatch said:
So my Silverado ended up having trash in the injectors. They cleaned the injectors out, replaced two plugs that got fuel soaked while troubleshooting, and its running smoothly.

Except... on the drive home, I pulled up to a traffic light, glanced at the dash, and saw the temperature needle up around the 230-240 mark. Needle has always been dead nuts at 210 previously. What the heck? As soon as I started to drive away, it dropped to 210 and stayed there. Traffic light, on throttle, off throttle, uphill, downhill, idling in the driveway, no change... just sat at 210.

Go to take the truck out today to observe behavior. Start it up, begin driving, a few miles away it creeps back up to 240 ish, pull into the parts store parking lot, and as soon as I'm back at idle, drops to 210. Cooled off to about 180 while in the store, start it up again, drive home, solid as a rock at 210 again.

I'm thinking thermostat is sticking shut for some reason and then opening late, or the dash/gauge is reading wrong. I ordered a t-stat and reservoir cap to play it safe and will top off the coolant when I go to replace it. OBD reader is showing gauge accurately matching temps, at least at idle (holding 208-214). Fan clutch stops spinning right after you turn the key off and not freewheeling. Anything else I might be missing?
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Thay sounds more like a fan clutch
 
LeeMajors said:
Thay sounds more like a fan clutch
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I would think the fan clutch wouldn't suddenly engage out of the blue though? It's not excessively loud or noisy, I see no sign of leaks coming from it, resistance noticeably increases after engine is warmed up and doesn't freewheel when turning the engine off.
 
I replaced the spark plugs on my 2016 Honda CR-V. It has 133,339 miles on it. I bought it with 25,263 miles, so even if the plugs were new at that time they have 108,000 miles on them. The old plugs were in pretty good condition for their age, and the gap was still between 0.040-0.044, which is the spec for the replacements.

Next in line is the 2010 Corolla, which is closing in on 200k (not on the original plugs). Same plugs, just a different heat range. The two cars also use the same windshield wipers (26" driver, 16" passenger) which makes life easier.

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Just picked it up from my nieces house. Her husband painted the trunk, rear bumper, rear quarter and front bumper for me (I supplied the paint and I paid him). I went with some cheap black hubcaps instead of the ones that came on it. Going to buff the headlights to restore them and get my son to buff the roof and she’s done.

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Silverado got the new tstat, fan clutch, coolant reservoir cap, about 1.5 gallons of Dexcool, and fresh wiper blades. Let it come up to temp at idle, gauge went to the middle and sat there. Checked temps on OBD reader, 194-198. Drove it around the neighborhood and down the main road, no temperature climb. So hopefully one of the parts took care of the overheating issue, and it will behave from now on.
 
Any vehicle electricians in here? I'm no mechanic but know enough to keep me off the side of the road most times. I handle all my own maintenance and basic repairs. But when it comes to vehicle wiring I don't know what's going on except for little stereo knowledge. I've got a 1984 nissan/datsun 720 mini truck I got cheap few years back. Someone before me has put in a v6 out of a 280 z. It has been a good running truck and was on the road for a year after I got it. But when you cut on the headlights the motor cuts out and eventually shuts down. Same when setting at a turn with turn signal on motor will cut out and off if you don't turn signal off quick. I've checked everything I know to check with meter and checked ground wires. I can't figure out what makes motor stop when lights or signals are turned on.
 
Have you replaced the switch for the signals and or lights ? Older cars like that sometimes have issues in the column where there switch will cause that issue. Hopefully a cheap easy fix.
Could also be a loose ground somewhere in the light system.
 
Diablos said:
Im going to choke the life out of the engineer and bean counter(s) that decided no transmission dip stick or drain plug was a good idea
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They claim the fluid is “lifetime” but what they don’t tell you is that it’s the life of the warranty, not the life of the car.
 
NC Boy Scout said:
They claim the fluid is “lifetime” but what they don’t tell you is that it’s the life of the warranty, not the life of the car.
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Just a pita job if you dont want to take a bath. I used my extraction pump to empty the pan (rather than a nice easy drain plug), then used a hand pump to refill to the cold level (because again, no way in hell am i running it to operating temp and checking it next to the screaming hot cat). Morons should be required to work on what they designed.
 
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