Cloud Defensive Rein vs Modlite PLH-V2

Looks like Modlite has a new light coming to market at the end of January that is using a slightly larger battery (21700 vs 18650) and is showing some IMPRESSIVE Candela numbers:


OKW specs:
  • 720 Lumens
  • 170,000 Candela
  • Constant on runtime 3 hours and 10 minutes
PLHv2 specs:
  • 1350 Lumens
  • 120,000 Candela
  • Constant on runtime 2½ hours
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Looks like Modlite has a new light coming to market at the end of January that is using a slightly larger battery (21700 vs 18650) and is showing some IMPRESSIVE Candela numbers:


OKW specs:
  • 720 Lumens
  • 170,000 Candela
  • Constant on runtime 3 hours and 10 minutes
PLHv2 specs:
  • 1350 Lumens
  • 120,000 Candela
  • Constant on runtime 2½ hours
View attachment 573323
Beat me to it, was coming here to post the same thing.

Holy hell, those are some insane numbers that thing is pushing. Think I found my next light..
 
Beat me to it, was coming here to post the same thing.

Holy hell, those are some insane numbers that thing is pushing. Think I found my next light..
I was hoping you would take the Modlite plunge on this one for T&E purposes! I'm curious IF they will eventually release this as a WML. The change in battery means that the light bodies and head most likely will NOT be compatible with existing lights, and more specifically with Surefire bodies and switches.

Speaking of the Candela numbers the current OKW head is 69k and works very well out to ~250yds, and the PLHv2 is 54k. The Hog OKW is 170k Candela which I just can't imagine what that is going to look like...laser beam-esque is my best guess!! :eek:
 
I was hoping you would take the Modlite plunge on this one for T&E purposes! I'm curious IF they will eventually release this as a WML. The change in battery means that the light bodies and head most likely will NOT be compatible with existing lights, and more specifically with Surefire bodies and switches.

Speaking of the Candela numbers the current OKW head is 69k and works very well out to ~250yds, and the PLHv2 is 54k. The Hog OKW is 170k Candela which I just can't imagine what that is going to look like...laser beam-esque is my best guess!! :eek:
This is probably the light that makes me take the plunge. It’s going to be an absolute spotlight.
 
Looks like the Modlite Hog went live today! That was rather quick and a pleasant surprise. Unfortunately I'll have to wait on ordering one to T&E until funding is available.
 
A couple of quick clips from SHOT2023:

The Surefire Turbo WML's and handhelds are FINALLY shipping (announced SHOT2022):


Modlite released the HOG handheld and is working on a WML version of it for Q2 or Q3 of 2023:


 
@Bunsen @Derek8404
I'm new to expensive flashlights and need help.

I need to order a couple weapon lights to replace ancient stuff. I need at least one with a remote tailswitch, and a tailcap that also has a button as well as a switch is preferred but not strictly required. The other I want a tailcap button and a remote switch for. 1 with an MLOK mount, one with a Picatinny inline mount.

Looks like I have a few options.
1. SurefireM640DF: $400-470? $323 for the light, plus either an $80 remote switch tailcap or a $150 DS07 setup. Includes MLOK mount(so I have to buy a Picatinny mount). It is compatible with all the Surefire accessories, but the throw performance is very outdated, and that expensive tape switch might not carry enough amps for a better head if I ever upgrade. So the head and the tapeswitch are outdated out of the box on a 400$ light. I've found plenty of threads with complaints of failures or flickering, reliability is a concern.

2. CD Rein 3.0. $305? Great throw performance. Remote switch can handle all the power. Specifically states it works with all the types of 18650s, not sure about the others. Includes Picatinny mount(so I have to buy an MLOK mount). Not compatible with anything except SF mounts. I like that the remote tape switch wire doesn't come out of the back of the switch where my hand will hit it and wear it out. Lifetime warranty.

3. Arisaka 18650 light, with 1 mount, still $416-455$ with the DS07-SR depending on which head I use. I could get a Unity switch instead of the Surefire to carry more current for a bit more money and futureproofing, the head performs much better than the Surefire. Arisaka 600 series lights aren't that much cheaper.

4. Wait for the Surefire M640DF turbo, then wait for it to be in stock and for prices to drop like they did the x300 Turbo, and hope it's more reliable than the M640DF, and that the price isn't ridiculous. It will be higher than the M640DF.

How would you rate the reliability of these lights?
Can the CD Rein 3.0 remote switch be detached so I can use only the button? I can't seem to find an example of people doing this.
Are there any known CD durability issues?

What would you do in this situation? I probably won't buy any more weapon lights for a long time. The Rein 3.0 has the best performance, configuration, and wire routing options(I think), and is significantly cheaper than the others(if there's a cheaper place to buy any of these, please let me know). It just isn't Surefire compatible, and you're stuck with the Rein switch. The upcoming Surefire might be great. My x300 Turbo is. And I'd very much like to be in the Surefire ecosystem. But the Surefires look expensive and unreliable, and the Arisakas cost 416$.

I just bought a modern, quality, optics ready made in America handgun for $400 after rebate- and it came with a red dot sight. $300+ per light is a lot to throw around and I want to make the right choice.

I think all of those would be solid choices. I’d also take a look at Modlite. The pro to the SF, Modlite and Arisaka is you have a ton of options for mounts and switches. I wouldn’t say SF is unreliable at all. I’ve heard of some issues with the switches on the DF model but I’m sure they got that sorted out.

Cloud stuff is really nice and I like that you get everything included in the price (well, except for the mount on the rein) but their stuff is proprietary so you’re limited to only their products. Not necessarily a bad thing, their products are super solid and seems like they have excellent support should you ever need it. I just checked my Rein to see if you could use the button without the switch and you cannot. They are integrated.

If dual fuel is a feature you’re looking for, I think your only options are the SureFire and the Rein 3.0
 
@Bunsen @Derek8404
I'm new to expensive flashlights and need help.

I need to order a couple weapon lights to replace ancient stuff. I need at least one with a remote tailswitch, and a tailcap that also has a button as well as a switch is preferred but not strictly required. The other I want a tailcap button and a remote switch for. 1 with an MLOK mount, one with a Picatinny inline mount.

Looks like I have a few options.
1. SurefireM640DF: $400-470? $323 for the light, plus either an $80 remote switch tailcap or a $150 DS07 setup. Includes MLOK mount(so I have to buy a Picatinny mount). It is compatible with all the Surefire accessories, but the throw performance is very outdated, and that expensive tape switch might not carry enough amps for a better head if I ever upgrade. So the head and the tapeswitch are outdated out of the box on a 400$ light. I've found plenty of threads with complaints of failures or flickering, reliability is a concern.

2. CD Rein 3.0. $305? Great throw performance. Remote switch can handle all the power. Specifically states it works with all the types of 18650s, not sure about the others. Includes Picatinny mount(so I have to buy an MLOK mount). Not compatible with anything except SF mounts. I like that the remote tape switch wire doesn't come out of the back of the switch where my hand will hit it and wear it out. Lifetime warranty.

3. Arisaka 18650 light, with 1 mount, still $416-455$ with the DS07-SR depending on which head I use. I could get a Unity switch instead of the Surefire to carry more current for a bit more money and futureproofing, the head performs much better than the Surefire. Arisaka 600 series lights aren't that much cheaper.

4. Wait for the Surefire M640DF turbo, then wait for it to be in stock and for prices to drop like they did the x300 Turbo, and hope it's more reliable than the M640DF, and that the price isn't ridiculous. It will be higher than the M640DF.

How would you rate the reliability of these lights?
Can the CD Rein 3.0 remote switch be detached so I can use only the button? I can't seem to find an example of people doing this.
Are there any known CD durability issues?

What would you do in this situation? I probably won't buy any more weapon lights for a long time. The Rein 3.0 has the best performance, configuration, and wire routing options(I think), and is significantly cheaper than the others(if there's a cheaper place to buy any of these, please let me know). It just isn't Surefire compatible, and you're stuck with the Rein switch. The upcoming Surefire might be great. My x300 Turbo is. And I'd very much like to be in the Surefire ecosystem. But the Surefires look expensive and unreliable, and the Arisakas cost 416$.

I just bought a modern, quality, optics ready made in America handgun for $400 after rebate- and it came with a red dot sight. $300+ per light is a lot to throw around and I want to make the right choice.
I can't really recommend CD currently as they have had issues with the Rein 2.0 switches and the MCH's run quite hot (120F). They have great ideas, but they have just experienced so much growth since the Rein 1.0 & OWL launched it's like a completely different company. as @Derek8404 indicated the CD switch and tailcap are a combo unit. They do offer a tailcap only option fro $45. I do have two Rein 1.0 and REALLY like those, but my MCH is just bleh.

I started down this rabbit hole of high end flashlights with a Surefire M640DF. Yes, the Surefire eco-system of switches is stupid expensive mainly because it's MIL or LE Agencies footing the bill typically. I've ended up in the Modlite camp and also run Mod buttons instead of SF switches. The most economical way to get into the SF/Mod/Arisaka ecosystem is to watch for BLEM's and the annual sales. Also I stick with Modlite batteries.

Side note Modlite actually makes dual fuel legacy enhanced heads for 16mm thread pitched older lights:
 
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I can't really recommend CD currently as they have had issues with the Rein 2.0 switches and the MCH's run quite hot (120F). They have great ideas, but they have just experienced so much growth since the Rein 1.0 & OWL launched it's like a completely different company. as @Derek8404 indicated the CD switch and tailcap are a combo unit. They do offer a tailcap only option fro $45. I do have two Rein 1.0 and REALLY like those, but my MCH is just bleh.

I started down this rabbit hole of high end flashlights with a Surefire M640DF. Yes, the Surefire eco-system of switches is stupid expensive mainly because it's MIL or LE Agencies footing the bill typically. I've ended up in the Modlite camp and also run Mod buttons instead of SF switches. The most economical way to get into the SF/Mod/Arisaka ecosystem is to watch for BLEM's and the annual sales. Also I stick with Modlite batteries.

Side note Modlite actually makes dual fuel legacy enhanced heads for 16mm thread pitched older lights:

I concur on this. I have a MCH, OWL and Rein 1.0 all are good but the MCH is a little disappointing. I’ll prob go with a Modlite handheld next.
 
@Fred Although I certainly enjoy the higher end handhelds & WML's to serve specific tasks (identify & engage targets out to ~3ooyds) ; dependent on your situation Streamlight may have something that fits your needs as well. I run TRL-1's on most of my pistols and have Pro Tac's on several rifles. I have been happy with all of them.

 
As best as I can recall from the CD FB group is that the Rein 2.0 switch rail brackets originally used a thinner plastic than the Rein 1.0 and were prone to breakage when attaching to pic rails.

Also from personal experience you will want to wrap the cord in electrical tape about 1.5" as it comes out of the switch. This area is prone to wearing through the coating. This is not my pic, but the exact same thing happened to mine:
289366451_10210153772158864_4538464334692540244_n.jpg
 
@Bunsen @Derek8404 Thanks for the help. I did order 2 Rein 3.0s. It is just too hard to pay nearly 30-50% more to get the same switching redundancy and performance, without even getting the dual fuel.

As for Streamlight, I have a Protac 1. The pitiful performance at range is why I want to switch. I could never have shot Tim's night vision match with it, and that only went to 120 or so yard shots.

I tested a Protac HL-X. I'm sure the performance is adequate for any reasonable self defense. But the tape switch either was broken out of the box or broke while trying to fit it on the gun. Unacceptable durability. They don't even offer replacement tape switches! The tape switch is also too large to fit anywhere on my gun where it can be reached in a firing grip, and of course there are no smaller aftermarket switches. The form factor doesn't allow the light to be mounted on the left forward side for tailcap activation. I considered cutting a remote switch off and soldering a Chinese tape switch to the tailcap lead. I could throw more money at Streamlight, but the durability and support are not there.

I am interested in hearing what the issues with the Rein 2.0 switches were. I've heard about many issues with ModButtons(I looked at them for LAMs) but never had to pay attention to REIN switches.
Should have waited till next month when they drop the 4.0 😂😂 I’m just kidding, congrats on the purchases, I’ll be watching to see some reviews after you get to test them out.

I haven’t had any issues with Cloud stuff personally so maybe they have all the issues sorted out with the 3.0. They do seem to like to release “new” models rather quickly though.

The HL-X has been know to have issues with the tape switches for an awhile now.
 
Let's try an image upload instead of a C&P from the FB group. Can you see this now @Fred ?
CD Rein wire wear.jpg
 
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I use a thorntail mount to put them at 11:00 since I shoot lefty and as far forward as possible. I mount the switch at 12:00.

139FC53D-BCA2-4D00-8ACA-2B8916FB04E8.jpegD277D54E-661D-45B3-A556-43F72B8BA7EF.jpeg
 
I'm a right handed and right eye dominant shooter that prefers the light on the left side of the rail at ~9 o'clock and switch on the top rail. In addition to the Thorntail mounts are great! Arisaka makes a light bar mounts (pic & MLok) for TRex Arms that helps reduce suppressor shadow by moving the light ~ 3in forward.


IMG_7816.jpg
 
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